2005 Mountaineer Spark plug change. | Ford Explorer Forums

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2005 Mountaineer Spark plug change.

Ryan_289

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2005 Mountaineer
My wifes 05 Mountaineer has started to run a little rough at idle, esp. right at start up. Its got 120000 and I figure im overdue for plugs and wires. I was told that Fords have a problem with the plugs seizing up in the head. Is there anything to worry about here or is it just a simple deal?
 



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depends on what engine you have, broken plugs are a common issue starting with 2005 SOHC 4.6L 3-valve engines (used in 2005+ Mustang) I believe 2005 4.6L V8 are still 2-valve (16 valve total). In 2006+ they redesigned it to use 3-valve for the Explorers (that's where the complaints started)

there should be no issue taking them out, just use the appropriate tool.



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Hers is the 4.0 v6 so it should be straight forward?
 












Hers is the 4.0 v6 so it should be straight forward?
>>>>>>>>>

The 4.0L V-6 are easy to change. I did mine back in Feb. I used a 3/8" drive, angled spark plug socket, 3/8th breaker bar and ratchet, a 20 inch long extension, another foot long extension at times to remove the old plugs and install the new ones. The long extensions allowed me to comfortably stand outside the fender well without killing my back bent over them. I did the spark wires as well. Just don't over tighten the new plugs. The spark plug torque setting is 156 in lbs. for the 2005 4.0l V-6. On the passenger side, I disconnected the air intake tubing at the clamps at the air filter box and throttle body intake and rolled it upside down out of the way for more room to remove the plugs on that side. I pre-threaded the new plugs using my plug socket and an extension, but some people like to use a section of rubber vacuum line hose fitted to the tip of the spark plug as a safe way to thread the new plugs. What ever works for you. If you need the engine cylinder numbers or coil pack cylinder order/numbers just let me know, but they may already be marked on your existing spark plug wires if factory wires and your coil pack should be stamped with the cylinder order/numbers. Wouldn't hurt to clean the MAF sensor while you are at it, use "MAF cleaner spray only" on that. Good luck.
 






Is this one of those deals where its best to use Motorcraft parts? Or is there a better option?

The torque on those things works out to 13 ft pounds. No wonder ppl strip stuff out in aluminum! Im assuming never seize is a good idea on the plugs.
 






Stick with OEM Motorcraft or Autolite. Don't see any reason to change brands after 120K of service.
Good luck getting a torque wrench on a couple of plugs, and remember a small dab of dielectric grease
on the plug and coil boots. Also wouldn't hurt to have spark plug plyer or puller to save your knuckles.
 






Is this one of those deals where its best to use Motorcraft parts? Or is there a better option?>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

From what I read in here on spark plugs and from what one mechanic I went to have some diagnostics done on my Ex was that you should use an OE plug. Either a Motorcraft platinum plug or one like a OE Autolite platinum plug. This mechanic changed the new Bosch Platinum Plus-4's ($6 each) I had installed in it, to the current OE Autolite Single Platinum plugs I now have. He said the Bosch plugs weren't the right type of plugs for my vehicle even though they were correct according to the parts store I bought them at. I also looked up these Bosch plugs through the parts store web site using my vehicle specs and they were correct according to that as well. I think it comes down to a preference issue. I ran Bosch plugs in my old Jeep and never had a problem with them.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>The torque on those things works out to 13 ft pounds. No wonder ppl strip stuff out in aluminum! Im assuming never seize is a good idea on the plugs.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yeah, it doesn't take much torque to seat the plugs on these aluminum blocks. The Haynes Manual says you can use anti-seize on the spark plug threads so it wouldn't hurt.
 












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