2006 Ford Explorer Limited V8 4x4 (Transfer Case Yoke)

[jstickney83]

I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Limited V8. I was removing the Front Driveshaft and noticed that one of my T30 Hex Bolts had sheared off inside the Yoke bracket for the Transfer Case. I have attempted many times to Tap, Drill and back out the stud with no success. I am currently attempting to remove the Nut, Washer, Dust Cover and Flange and replacing the Flange. I cannot find anything anywhere for torque specifications for the nut. I could really use some help here. I hate that I am guessing here and prior to removing this nut I need more information.

 

[Bazz270]

Well havent you try to find any factory workshop manual copy?

 

[jstickney83]

Well havent you try to find any factory workshop manual copy?

Yes. I have a Haynes book. I have also looked for the factory specifications online. I went to my local dealer and looked for replacement parts as well as tried to find out information from the techs. The only information that I was able to get from them was that the Nut itself was obsolete and no longer available for purchase. The flange, dust cover, washer and seal were all available for purchase though. No one was able to provide any further assistance. I've worked on many vehicles before and never had this issue arise where I couldn't find anything. This is why I tried so hard to back the stud out rather than replace the flange.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Torque spec's as follows; Flange bolts - 83 #, strap bolts - 14 #, cv flange bolts - 22 #.

Add a little blue thread locker.

 

[jstickney83]

Torque spec's as follows; Flange bolts - 83 #, strap bolts - 14 #, cv flange bolts - 22 #.

Add a little blue thread locker.

I appreciate the information. However, I already have the torque specifications for the bolts you've listed. I need the torque specifications for the Nut that hold the flange to the transfer case. It's 1 nut and I can't find anything on it at all. If you have the torque specs for it I would be very thankful.

 

[jstickney83]

I appreciate the information. However, I already have the torque specifications for the bolts you've listed. I need the torque specifications for the Nut that hold the flange to the transfer case. It's 1 nut and I can't find anything on it at all. If you have the torque specs for it I would be very thankful.

Torque spec's as follows; Flange bolts - 83 #, strap bolts - 14 #, cv flange bolts - 22 #.

Add a little blue thread locker.

I apologize. Let me start over. I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Limited V8 4x4. Previously I said the transfer case and what I meant to say was the Front Differential. The front differential connects to the Driveshaft and 4 T30 Hex Bolts hold the driveshaft to the front differential. One of these bolts sheared off and is lodged inside the flange that is connected to the Front Differential. I have attempted to remove the the stud and have failed in my attempts. My plan is to remove the flange, dust cover and washer and replace them but in order to do so I have to remove a single nut that is holding them all in place. I can not find a single bit of information on this one nut except from the dealership and the dealership said that I cannot order the nut because it is considered obsolete.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

If its the rear output shaft flange nut, then the spec is 262 #. (wow)

Or due you mean the front pinion flange nut?

 

[jstickney83]

If its the rear output shaft flange nut, then the spec is 262 #. (wow)

Yes, that sounds about right! Can you post where you found that information so I can verify

 

[jstickney83]

If its the rear output shaft flange nut, then the spec is 262 #. (wow)

Or due you mean the front pinion flange nut?

1995-2011 Ford Yoke 6L2Z-4851-A | Blue Springs Ford Parts

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this is the link to the yoke on the differential but I can't get the nut to display

 

[Bill MacLeod]

1995-2011 Ford Yoke 6L2Z-4851-A | Blue Springs Ford Parts

Save Big On This OEM Yoke, Part #6L2Z-4851-A for 1995-2011 Ford. Wholesale Prices, Fast Shipping, Order Online or Call 1-800-248-7760.

www.bluespringsfordparts.com

this is the link to the yoke on the differential but I can't get the nut to display

Link above appears to be of the front Dana 30 axle. There is a collapsible spacer used similar to the rear 8.8 axle. My 2006 Ford workshop manual does not provide much detail other then to replace the crush washer if the pinion nut is removed to maintain proper preload.

The torque spec I mentioned above is for the transfer case output shaft flange, not the front diff pinion flange.

 

[jstickney83]

Link above appears to be of the front Dana 30 axle. There is a collapsible spacer used similar to the rear 8.8 axle. My 2006 Ford workshop manual does not provide much detail other then to replace the crush washer if the pinion nut is removed to maintain proper preload.

The torque spec I mentioned above is for the transfer case output shaft flange, not the front diff pinion flange.

So I kinda figured this was an issue I would run into when I couldn't find the information I was looking for. I can only assume that my best bet is to measure the depth from the nut head to the end of the pinion flange and try my best to make sure I don't disrupt the preload configurations when I put the nut back on. looks like I'm going to have to break out some calipers to make sure I don't mess up. Thanks a lot Bill. I appreciate all the help.

 

[jstickney83]

Link above appears to be of the front Dana 30 axle. There is a collapsible spacer used similar to the rear 8.8 axle. My 2006 Ford workshop manual does not provide much detail other then to replace the crush washer if the pinion nut is removed to maintain proper preload.

The torque spec I mentioned above is for the transfer case output shaft flange, not the front diff pinion

I have attached the picture I was able to locate. I have also added some identifiers to it. I bought everything highlighted in yellow. the green highlighted area is the Nut and is obsolete so I will clean it up and reuse it. If I am correct the Nut in question is a locking Nut for the Front Pinion Shaft which connects to the Pinion Ring. Based on what you've said and I believe you are 100% right. The Front Differential is a Dana 30 3.37. Once I pop the nut off the pressure load will be lost. I will need to replace the highlighted areas in the picture to the previous load settings. Now on to my actual question. I have Calipers I can use to measure the length of the exposed Pinion shaft as well as the Nut to be sure the pre loaded settings are met. Do you think a caliper is going to be the best way to measure or should I use a different approach? I feel competent in my skills to pull this off so I am really just looking for some guidance to ensure I make this easier on myself when I go to do the Job.
Thank you again Bill,
I really appreciate all the help!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Your attachment won't open for me.

I don't want to tell you how to do this job, (others have much more experience than me) but the manual mentions to remove wheels, calipers, driveshaft, etc to take the load off the pinion. Rotate the pinion nut with an inch lb torque wrench and note the reading on the wrench when the nut is easily rotated. Will possibly be in the 15 to 24 in lb range.
Mark the pinion shaft and pinion nut or yoke (if reusing) with a chisel. Count the exposed threads with a pic. Or measure with your calipers.
Change the seal, clean and reinstall everything. I would use a film of ultra black on the seal and loctite on the pinion nut if not new. Recheck the rotation torque reading.
Don't forget that you will need some sort of steel bar to hold the flange. I made one from some channel, most use a length of steel angle. And you will need a beam or gauge type in lb torque wrench.

It's risky. Good luck.

 

[Bazz270]

IMHO

You better take the axle off the car ,extract and retap the thread.quality helicoil might be used for this job.

2 hours job

One broken screw dont worth the axle case inner factory preloaded components reassembly

 

[jstickney83]

Your attachment won't open for me.

I don't want to tell you how to do this job, (others have much more experience than me) but the manual mentions to remove wheels, calipers, driveshaft, etc to take the load off the pinion. Rotate the pinion nut with an inch lb torque wrench and note the reading on the wrench when the nut is easily rotated. Will possibly be in the 15 to 24 in lb range.
Mark the pinion shaft and pinion nut or yoke (if reusing) with a chisel. Count the exposed threads with a pic. Or measure with your calipers.
Change the seal, clean and reinstall everything. I would use a film of ultra black on the seal and loctite on the pinion nut if not new. Recheck the rotation torque reading.
Don't forget that you will need some sort of steel bar to hold the flange. I made one from some channel, most use a length of steel angle. And you will need a beam or gauge type in lb torque wrench.

It's risky. Good luck.

So I got the stud out after my uncle came over. He took a lot of pleasure in laughing at the situation and watching me struggle with removing the stud after he helped me drop the differential. Then he said he would bet me 200 bucks he could back it out in less than 90 mins and I like an idiot accepted his bet. He took one of the old hex bolts and went to his truck and grabbed his portable wielder. Lets just say I'm out 200 bucks and he did it in well under 90 mins. I appreciate all the help you gave me in trying to figure out a solution to my problem. If I run into another problem I will be sure to post on here again.
Thanks Again Bill

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Good outcome to a tough situation. Well done.