2013 Explorer. All fobs stopped working - SOLVED

[stuarto]

Hey folks,
So I have a really annoying problem…today all 3 of my key fobs stopped working to remotely lock/unlock/start/tailgate open.

having found a few threads on the forum I did the usual of checking the fob batteries. Also resorted to doing a master reset. Also disconnected negative cable for about 2 hours.

The car starts fine with all 3 keys and the car battery is about 4 months old and I put it on charge - just in case.

Also tried reprogramming one key (the on/off 8 times procedure), no luck

I’m assuming that something “central” has died, even though this seems strange. I’m hopeful that there maybe a specific fuse for the remote receiver? Does anyone happen to know, before I go checking every single one.

I’m so reluctant to take it into the shop to be quoted the inevitable hundreds of dollars to fix it!

It’s not often that I get completely baffled by something but it’s happened this time!

Hope you all had a great weekend.
S

 

[J_C]

I've had nothing go wrong with my '14 and don't frequent this forum much to pick up on common problems, but I did find a service manual and wiring diagrams download that shows the circuits, takes some jumping back and forth to look at the "Remote Keyless Entry and Alarm" then you see the BCM, body control module, will have to look at the other diagrams to find the fuse for it.

I don't know how much changed between '13 and '14 but it's well worth having even if it doesn't resolve this by itself:

2014_Explorer.rar

drive.google.com

I also see on the diagram for my '14, interior panel fuse 18 is PATS (probably not it but I'd check it anyway), fuse 21 intelligent access keypad, fuse 27 intelligent access module, and fuse 49 BCM (the one I'd check first but if BCM fuse is blown, I'd expect more than just keyfobs to stop working). These fuse locations should be in your owner's manual but their functions should be listed too, IIRC.

 

[Odrapnew]

Did you actually replace the fob batteries or just check them?
If you didn't replace them, wonder if they are just low enough where they only work when inside the vehicle.

 

[stuarto]

Did you actually replace the fob batteries or just check them?
If you didn't replace them, wonder if they are just low enough where they only work when inside the vehicle.

Funny you should ask. I did both. All were >3v so I initially left them. However, as I continued to come up with no answers, I replaced them.

I can't get them to work anywhere, in the car or out of the car.

The good news is that I don't believe all 3 just stopped working so I'm more focused on the receiving end. However, this is where I'm not yet sure where to look next.

 

[stuarto]

I've had nothing go wrong with my '14 and don't frequent this forum much to pick up on common problems, but I did find a service manual and wiring diagrams download that shows the circuits, takes some jumping back and forth to look at the "Remote Keyless Entry and Alarm" then you see the BCM, body control module, will have to look at the other diagrams to find the fuse for it.

I don't know how much changed between '13 and '14 but it's well worth having even if it doesn't resolve this by itself:

2014_Explorer.rar

drive.google.com

I also see on the diagram for my '14, interior panel fuse 18 is PATS (probably not it but I'd check it anyway), fuse 21 intelligent access keypad, fuse 27 intelligent access module, and fuse 49 BCM (the one I'd check first but if BCM fuse is blown, I'd expect more than just keyfobs to stop working). These fuse locations should be in your owner's manual but their functions should be listed too, IIRC.

Thanks so much for this. I've downloaded and will take a look tonight

 

[Odrapnew]

Funny you should ask. I did both. All were >3v so I initially left them. However, as I continued to come up with no answers, I replaced them.

I can't get them to work anywhere, in the car or out of the car.

The good news is that I don't believe all 3 just stopped working so I'm more focused on the receiving end. However, this is where I'm not yet sure where to look next.

Got it.
I misunderstood your initial post.
You can use the physical keys to start.
I was thinking push button start.

I agree it sounds like a receiver issue since all 3 no longer work.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with how to repair. Just had to throw out the obvious (r.e. batteries).

 

[peterk9]

Thanks so much for this. I've downloaded and will take a look tonight

Have you by chance just added any item(s) to a USB port or powerpoint? That has been know to interfere with the signal.

Peter

 

[stuarto]

Have you by chance just added any item(s) to a USB port or powerpoint? That has been know to interfere with the signal.

Peter

Nice idea but no, nothing new added

 

[stuarto]

All,
A quick response for now, to close the thread.

TLDR - My fobs are working again.

I have solved the issue with 99% certainty. In reality, "solved" here means that I believe that I've found the root cause. It was radio frequency interference (RFI) from a smart meter.

This should not happen. Smart meters do transmit data (including your location and energy use). Depending on the exact meter, the transmission frequency varies between 2.x GHz, 900.x MHZ and 433.x MHz. Note, the latter is the frequency of our keyfobs.

Will add a more detailed thread to explain how I reached the conclusion and why it's only 99% certainty.

S

 

[peterk9]

Was the Smart meter just installed? If not, then why did it just happen all of a sudden? Interesting.

Peter

 

[J_C]

Umm, okay but I've had a smart meter for a while, that's only ~20 feet away from 2+ vehicles and it never caused a problem, but as you mentioned the frequency may be different and I've no idea what frequency my fobs are.