2017 Explorer Fuse Box (looking for 12V constant power) for dashcam

[thefranchise713]

The rear camera is going to be a bit of a pain to run, I'm sure...

Ran the rear on my DR650GW and it was a nice theatric trying to get out of the way of the airbags, then having to contort down and then up in places due to length of the cable and which panels I felt OK about taking down and not breaking. Removing the headliner is not a practical venture, though it would have been the most ideal.

IIRC, I ran up over the driver's door behind the bags, down the b-pillar behind the bag, along the ground, then just ran exterior once I got past the third row. I tried to run more direct, but somehow ran out of cable. I know didn't get caught anywhere. But hey, good enough for me!

I've got a parking mode too.. believe me, it's such a nice feeling having that now. I have a "cloud capability" with mine-hopefully at some point the costs for a data card will come down enough to make that bit practical. Though for now, not so much. Would be nice to get push notifications on activity.

 

[PlatinumOwner]

I tapped in to delayed accessory power on my 2016 Platinum and it powers on when I start the engine. Driver side fuse box, #23. Explorer Manual page 273. It is not easy to access.

 

[kovacic]

Hi all, this is my first post here on the forum, and I was hoping someone could help me out with a simple question. I have a 2012 Exp XLT and I have 2 white Feniex T3 LEDs on the tailgate which I have run wires to the overhead console. I have a flip switch and a momentery push button to switch modes, but I am unable to look for a good power source for it. I also have 2 dash cams (one facing forward, and one double set facing cabin). I will also have under vehicle LEDs and much more. I am looking for a good place to tap a constant AC power source, but unable to find any resources to tell me where I can tap. I would love to go straight to the battery, however I can not locate a hole in the firewall to go through. I am using an inline fuse, so thats not a problem. Does anyone have any experience getting into the console or able to provide me with info of where to get a decent 12v constant? Like I said before, all power used will be very low current, and will be fused.

Thank in advance!

 

[peterk9]

Hi all, this is my first post here on the forum, and I was hoping someone could help me out with a simple question. I have a 2012 Exp XLT and I have 2 white Feniex T3 LEDs on the tailgate which I have run wires to the overhead console. I have a flip switch and a momentery push button to switch modes, but I am unable to look for a good power source for it. I also have 2 dash cams (one facing forward, and one double set facing cabin). I will also have under vehicle LEDs and much more. I am looking for a good place to tap a constant AC power source, but unable to find any resources to tell me where I can tap. I would love to go straight to the battery, however I can not locate a hole in the firewall to go through. I am using an inline fuse, so thats not a problem. Does anyone have any experience getting into the console or able to provide me with info of where to get a decent 12v constant? Like I said before, all power used will be very low current, and will be fused.

Thank in advance!

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread has been merged with this one on a similar topic that I found using the Forum's 'Search' feature. I'm guessing the fuse boxes may be similar but I believe the type of fuses in the 2017 has changed. See if the info here is of any help. Also please add the trim level "XLT" to your profile so it shows 2012 Explorer XLT in the margin. Thanks.

Peter

 

[reserved50]

whatever you do, don't probe around with a test light or a volt meter looking for power, also don't tap into wires if you don't know what they're for. Once you energize a side curtain airbag and your ears ring after they blow you wont be as excited to check for power in random wires anymore. If you don't have a manual to find out what wires do, use a fuse tap, end of story.. Best bet is look in the owners manual and check if theres power at certain fuses such as, radio, lights, backup, memory etc etc

 

[Zippyworld]

I just installed a dash-cam in my 2011, I mounted it at the top of the windshield and tapped into the power for the moonroof. Was able to tuck all the extra wire in the headliner and there was even a screw to use for a ground. All I had to do was pop out the sunglass holder/switch assembly. 15 minute job.

 

[kmarnes]

whatever you do, don't probe around with a test light or a volt meter looking for power, also don't tap into wires if you don't know what they're for. Once you energize a side curtain airbag and your ears ring after they blow you wont be as excited to check for power in random wires anymore. If you don't have a manual to find out what wires do, use a fuse tap, end of story.. Best bet is look in the owners manual and check if theres power at certain fuses such as, radio, lights, backup, memory etc etc

Pretty good advice. My brother is a career mechanic though, so he knows what he's doing, unlike me. And he made it look easy.

 

[kmarnes]

I just installed a dash-cam in my 2011, I mounted it at the top of the windshield and tapped into the power for the moonroof. Was able to tuck all the extra wire in the headliner and there was even a screw to use for a ground. All I had to do was pop out the sunglass holder/switch assembly. 15 minute job.

I'm guessing there is no constant power up there? Some of the newer dashcams need it for parking surveillance mode.

 

[peterk9]

I'm guessing there is no constant power up there? Some of the newer dashcams need it for parking surveillance mode.

The visor buttons are always powered but not sure how the wiring is routed.

 

[JasperDoNothing]

I installed a radar detector (Uniden R3) in my 2018 Explorer Platinum using the "add-a-circuit" on the fuse board to hard wire it in place. I used fuse #35 (restraints control module) and everything went well, despite the difficulty in accessing the fuse box. Then I wanted to add a dash cam (Viofo A1190 Pro) and couldn't find a way to access another fuse - either there was too much interference so that it wouldn't fit, or the fuse itself was one that was powered all the time - which I did not want. SO, I daisy chained another add-a-circuit on fuse #35 to accomplish my goal. Both devices draw very little power and both have their own fuse "down the line." Everything is working well and the car has not exploded or spontaneously combusted, so far. My question, is this a no-no? Is it dangerous? I added a second add-a-circuit in the top slot of the first add-a circuit. To me, it was a no brainer, but it is possible I have committed electrical heresy and have endangered the planet. What do you think?

 

[kmarnes]

Meh, if it works, it works. I'm not an electrician, but I would imagine that if you daisy chain a single circuit to power three different things, if anything, you'll potentially starve the maximum power and not be able to power everything, and it would a bigger surge to trigger a fuse. But like you said, the draw on these are tiny and inconsequential.

Diabolical scenario, you get into an accident, the restraint control module triggers, causing the fuse to blow and doesn't work. That could be bad. Interior lights might be safer, something you don't bet your life on in case of accident. Anyway, just opinion... I'm no expert here

 

[613GT500]

Meh, if it works, it works. I'm not an electrician, but I would imagine that if you daisy chain a single circuit to power three different things, if anything, you'll potentially starve the maximum power and not be able to power everything, and it would a bigger surge to trigger a fuse. But like you said, the draw on these are tiny and inconsequential.

Diabolical scenario, you get into an accident, the restraint control module triggers, causing the fuse to blow and doesn't work. That could be bad. Interior lights might be safer, something you don't bet your life on in case of accident. Anyway, just opinion... I'm no expert here

+1, I tapped into the rearview mirror.

 

[Speedbird]

I am in the process of investigating the instalation of a front (for now) dashboard camera and i need to know on the INTERIOR fuse box under the dash.... Which side of the fuses are the LOAD side, and which side is the DRAW side of the 2 rows of fuses under there.

 

[Trailblazen]

Can confirm fuse 31 (Not Used in Explorer) is constant and works for my dash cam hardwire fuse tie in kit. Have an Apeman C770 cam with the parking sensors so need non-switched constant. 31 worked like a champ and did a clean wire install behind the A pillar panel.

 

[Dennis J.A.A.]

I installed a radar detector (Uniden R3) in my 2018 Explorer Platinum using the "add-a-circuit" on the fuse board to hard wire it in place. I used fuse #35 (restraints control module) and everything went well, despite the difficulty in accessing the fuse box. Then I wanted to add a dash cam (Viofo A1190 Pro) and couldn't find a way to access another fuse - either there was too much interference so that it wouldn't fit, or the fuse itself was one that was powered all the time - which I did not want. SO, I daisy chained another add-a-circuit on fuse #35 to accomplish my goal. Both devices draw very little power and both have their own fuse "down the line." Everything is working well and the car has not exploded or spontaneously combusted, so far. My question, is this a no-no? Is it dangerous? I added a second add-a-circuit in the top slot of the first add-a circuit. To me, it was a no brainer, but it is possible I have committed electrical heresy and have endangered the planet. What do you think?

As a 30+ year electrician there is nothing wrong as long as the extra loads have a fuse rated less than that of the original fuse.