2019 Explorer Sport - any Ecoboost V6 issues?

[SteveStroudOK]

The 2019 Explorer Sport I'm thinking of buying (3.5L V6 ecoboost, 4WD, Leather, Equipment Group 400A, Class III Tow Package) has 78,000 miles on it. Google tells me the 2019 version of this engine is okay "but"... (See below)

Have any of you with the same vehicle had engine problems? If so, what did you do?

P.S. I checked and this vehicle has no engine-related recalls (just something having to do with a door pillar trim strip).

Thanks!

Steve in Oklahoma
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While the Ford 3.5 EcoBoost engine is generally considered reliable, some common issues reported with the 2019 model year include: carbon buildup, timing chain stretching, cam phaser problems, intercooler condensation, potential coolant leaks, and occasional ignition system failures; with earlier generations of the engine experiencing more problems than later revisions where Ford addressed initial design flaws.

Key points to consider:

• Early models may have more issues:
  If looking at older 3.5 EcoBoost engines, be aware that earlier models might have more problems related to initial design issues, which Ford has generally addressed in later years.
  
  
• Maintenance is crucial:
  Proper maintenance, including regular oil changes and inspections, can help mitigate potential problems with the 3.5 EcoBoost engine.
  
  
• Check for recalls:
  Always check if your specific vehicle has any outstanding recalls related to the engine.
  

Common symptoms of 3.5 EcoBoost issues:
Rattling sound from the engine at startup, Check engine light with related diagnostic codes, Loss of power or poor acceleration, Decreased fuel economy, and Coolant leaks.

 

[J_C]

Welcome to the forum!

Parts that bolt on the exterior of the engine aren't so difficult or expensive to repair for the most part, but the bigger issue with that engine is the internal water pump which when it fails, can leak coolant into the oil and trash the engine if you don't notice it in time.

Most go much longer than 75K mi. before that happens, but replacing it requires pulling the engine and usually people get more timing components replaced at same time, turns into a multi-thousand dollar repair eventually. If kept on the road long enough, I'd expect every vehicle with that and the non-turbo 3.5L will need this done.

There was no design change solution made in later model year vehicles with this engine, all of them that use the transverse mounted (FWD biased drivetrain) 3.5L's and 3.7L of this era, have the same internal water pump design. RWD F150/etc don't have a transverse mounted engine so they have an external/traditional water pump that avoids the issue.

My '14 has the non-Ecoboost version of the 3.5L, and has not had that or any other problems yet besides a bad idle fluctuation on a single bad tank of gas a while back, but it doesn't have many miles on it yet.

 

[SteveStroudOK]

Welcome to the forum!

Parts that bolt on the exterior of the engine aren't so difficult or expensive to repair for the most part, but the bigger issue with that engine is the internal water pump which when it fails, can leak coolant into the oil and trash the engine if you don't notice it in time.

Most go much longer than 75K mi. before that happens, but replacing it requires pulling the engine and usually people get more timing components replaced at same time, turns into a multi-thousand dollar repair eventually. If kept on the road long enough, I'd expect every vehicle with that and the non-turbo 3.5L will need this done.

There was no design change solution made in later model year vehicles with this engine, all of them that use the transverse mounted (FWD biased drivetrain) 3.5L's and 3.7L of this era, have the same internal water pump design. RWD F150/etc don't have a transverse mounted engine so they have an external/traditional water pump that avoids the issue.

My '14 has the non-Ecoboost version of the 3.5L, and has not had that or any other problems yet besides a bad idle fluctuation on a single bad tank of gas a while back, but it doesn't have many miles on it yet.

Thanks very much for this detailed reply. I didn't think to mention that the 2017 Ford Edge I currently own has the 3.5L V6 (non-ecoboost version) with 133,000 miles on it. The engine works great, except there was an oil leak recently that appeared to come from an oil pan drain plug (sorry if I'm not using the right terminology) that wasn't tightened properly after an oil change. I caught it in time, because the engine was suddenly losing power and sounding rough. Off to my local Ford dealer I went, and they fixed it while I waited. Told me I got there before any real damage was done to the engine.
I'd like to think this Explorer's ecoboost version would last to 133,000 miles and beyond!

 

[javaleo]

Get an Oil Catch Can.

 

[SteveStroudOK]

Get an Oil Catch Can.

Thanks for the advice. So... you do or don't like this engine?

 

[javaleo]

Love it. Also got a 2019 Taurus SHO.

 

[peterk9]

Thanks for the advice. So... you do or don't like this engine?

Welcome to the Forum.
I was also going to mention the possible issue of the internal water pump. I lease my vehicles and am a very low-mileage driver but haven't had any issues with the engine.

Peter

 

[Blown]

Preventive maintenance is very necessary on these. Dirty oil can kill! I am a newish owner of a 17 Sport with 68,000. I added a catch can immediately as it does help reduce coking on the intake valves by removing some of the oil blowby before it goes back into the intake. I would also only use a good synthetic oil. I got more junk out of the catch can with traditional oil in it, from a stealership, than after a change to Valvoline full synthetic. I will not run extended periods with synthetic but change it at least every 5,000. I am thinking every 4,000...........

The PTU is a small unit that is surrounded by hot parts. The gear oil in it should be changed every 30k IMHO. I changed the rear end gear oil early and it was not so bad. I purchased an inexpensive vacuum pump to change both of those.

I did the tranny early at around 65k. I changed-out what it would drop twice. I don't believe in transmission flushes. I will continue to change fluid out more frequently than recommended. It looked ugly!

I am going to do a flush and fill in the Spring and will keep-up every couple of years to try to head-off water pump issues.

I also believe in driving these, as intended and blowing them out pretty frequently by wrapping them out!

 

[SteveStroudOK]

Preventive maintenance is very necessary on these. Dirty oil can kill! I am a newish owner of a 17 Sport with 68,000. I added a catch can immediately as it does help reduce coking on the intake valves by removing some of the oil blowby before it goes back into the intake. I would also only use a good synthetic oil. I got more junk out of the catch can with traditional oil in it, from a stealership, than after a change to Valvoline full synthetic. I will not run extended periods with synthetic but change it at least every 5,000. I am thinking every 4,000...........

The PTU is a small unit that is surrounded by hot parts. The gear oil in it should be changed every 30k IMHO. I changed the rear end gear oil early and it was not so bad. I purchased an inexpensive vacuum pump to change both of those.

I did the tranny early at around 65k. I changed-out what it would drop twice. I don't believe in transmission flushes. I will continue to change fluid out more frequently than recommended. It looked ugly!

I am going to do a flush and fill in the Spring and will keep-up every couple of years to try to head-off water pump issues.

I also believe in driving these, as intended and blowing them out pretty frequently by wrapping them out!

Thanks for the advice!