4.6 2v cam swap info for exp?

[281exploder]

Wanting to swap in these comp cams that have better top end while keeping the low end torque. No reviews on the cam at all and no info on cam swapping in a explorer 4.6 2v. Going to add a summit racing harmonic balancer to the equation for good measure to. Anybody have any advice or help it would be greatly appreciated.

From my understanding I will need the cams, degree service, adjustable cam gears, harmonic balancer, valve cover gasket, Am I missing something else here? Thank you in advance.

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[calahan#2211]

281, I think the cam choice you picked is for a "3V" modular. You may want to double check that. I do have a couple questions for you to ponder over. 1st, What are you considering "Top End"? or what rpm level are expecting to make power to? The factory tune in our computer pretty much signs off at 5,000rpm. I know you can get a tune and all, but the design criteria of the package in our wagons just isn't going to breathe up there. The factory exhaust manifolds really hold it back from doing so. The other thing is the lobe separation ground into that cam set is horrific for keeping low end power like you want.
Here are a couple things to consider; The 2V engines starve for intake port flow. It is because of the intake valve being kicked or tilted away from the port inlet. The exhaust however doesn't flow to bad in comparison to the intake. Our exhaust manifold design is tight and is both volume and scavenge deficient. I personally would stay away from the Comp cams profiles. The really aren't the best cams as they grind them. you could have something ground to work better for you. Give Bullet Cams a call at (662)893-5670. I had them grind me cams for maximum mid range power 1,500 to 4,500 rpm. What I am suggesting is something like this for specs; In. lobe #OH198DSO & Ex lobe #OH203ESO ground on a 111' l/sep with a 3 deg adavance. This will give around 33' of overlap, have a slightly noticeable idle change. It will work will all of your stock ECU, torque converter and factory exhaust manifolds or even some shorty headers if you can find anything... The specs will be; In. lobe adv. 253' @.050 215' lift .525", ex. lobe 258' @ .050 220' lift .525", lobe sep 111' in l/c 108' ex l/c 114'. Once you receive the cams, spend the money and send them to Modular head service. They have a cam degreeing service. Have them degree'd with new timing sprockets and to those specs. Believe me it will make quite a difference in both mid range power and the power will not fall off as bad as the factory cams do.

Do not purchase the Comp cams cam sprockets, have MHS do the degreeing for you. It is worth every penny... Buy a new timing set for the engine. Make sure it has guide that are metal backed not the cheep plastic ones. You will need new cam bolts and replacement valve springs too. There is no need for the aftermarket high seat pressure valve springs. I believe Speed Pro makes direct replacements that will work with those lobes. Talk to MHS, they will help guide you through it. They also sell alot of the components too!

Contrary to what alot of people say, the 4.6L can really make a fair amount of torque. It just has to have the valve timing right. Those cam specs will increase the cylinder filling without keeping the intake open to late. Hence, filling and locking in the cylinder pressure. The other thing I recommend finding is a timing adjuster. This will relocate the ignition/crank sensor and allow a fair amount of timing advance and retard. With those cams and a stock spec compression level you can add about 3 degrees of timing advance and still run on 89 octane. It will make a huge difference for midrange torque. Remember, it is torque that moves and accelerates the vehicle.
Oh, another tip, here in California we have to keep all emissions equipment. So, for a bit of help exhaust volume/flow, open up stock exhaust tubing out of cats to 2-1/2". You still follow factory exhaust routing. When the right side crosses and joins the left side, run it into a proper "merge" style of "Y" pipe. Miller Cats makes a 3" diameter catalytic converter that is California "OBD II" legal. Then reduce out of the cat into a single 2-3/4" exhaust out the back. Then the only restriction will be the manifolds. There will be enough exhaust for 300HP, which we know won't be made by our engines because the constrictions put on it to fit in chassis and the factory tune for emissions...

 

[281exploder]

281, I think the cam choice you picked is for a "3V" modular. You may want to double check that. I do have a couple questions for you to ponder over. 1st, What are you considering "Top End"? or what rpm level are expecting to make power to? The factory tune in our computer pretty much signs off at 5,000rpm. I know you can get a tune and all, but the design criteria of the package in our wagons just isn't going to breathe up there. The factory exhaust manifolds really hold it back from doing so. The other thing is the lobe separation ground into that cam set is horrific for keeping low end power like you want.
Here are a couple things to consider; The 2V engines starve for intake port flow. It is because of the intake valve being kicked or tilted away from the port inlet. The exhaust however doesn't flow to bad in comparison to the intake. Our exhaust manifold design is tight and is both volume and scavenge deficient. I personally would stay away from the Comp cams profiles. The really aren't the best cams as they grind them. you could have something ground to work better for you. Give Bullet Cams a call at (662)893-5670. I had them grind me cams for maximum mid range power 1,500 to 4,500 rpm. What I am suggesting is something like this for specs; In. lobe #OH198DSO & Ex lobe #OH203ESO ground on a 111' l/sep with a 3 deg adavance. This will give around 33' of overlap, have a slightly noticeable idle change. It will work will all of your stock ECU, torque converter and factory exhaust manifolds or even some shorty headers if you can find anything... The specs will be; In. lobe adv. 253' @.050 215' lift .525", ex. lobe 258' @ .050 220' lift .525", lobe sep 111' in l/c 108' ex l/c 114'. Once you receive the cams, spend the money and send them to Modular head service. They have a cam degreeing service. Have them degree'd with new timing sprockets and to those specs. Believe me it will make quite a difference in both mid range power and the power will not fall off as bad as the factory cams do.

Do not purchase the Comp cams cam sprockets, have MHS do the degreeing for you. It is worth every penny... Buy a new timing set for the engine. Make sure it has guide that are metal backed not the cheep plastic ones. You will need new cam bolts and replacement valve springs too. There is no need for the aftermarket high seat pressure valve springs. I believe Speed Pro makes direct replacements that will work with those lobes. Talk to MHS, they will help guide you through it. They also sell alot of the components too!

Contrary to what alot of people say, the 4.6L can really make a fair amount of torque. It just has to have the valve timing right. Those cam specs will increase the cylinder filling without keeping the intake open to late. Hence, filling and locking in the cylinder pressure. The other thing I recommend finding is a timing adjuster. This will relocate the ignition/crank sensor and allow a fair amount of timing advance and retard. With those cams and a stock spec compression level you can add about 3 degrees of timing advance and still run on 89 octane. It will make a huge difference for midrange torque. Remember, it is torque that moves and accelerates the vehicle.
Oh, another tip, here in California we have to keep all emissions equipment. So, for a bit of help exhaust volume/flow, open up stock exhaust tubing out of cats to 2-1/2". You still follow factory exhaust routing. When the right side crosses and joins the left side, run it into a proper "merge" style of "Y" pipe. Miller Cats makes a 3" diameter catalytic converter that is California "OBD II" legal. Then reduce out of the cat into a single 2-3/4" exhaust out the back. Then the only restriction will be the manifolds. There will be enough exhaust for 300HP, which we know won't be made by our engines because the constrictions put on it to fit in chassis and the factory tune for emissions...

Yeah accidently linked the wrong cam, what i picked was a stage 2 crower cam. Can't agree with you more on everything you said. Honestly got but hurt with the engine now I'm just doing a rear mount 6466 t3 single turbo 10 psi on stock everything. Making a custom on 3 performance turbo kit. Ill document everything on youtube. Currently doing this custom turbo build is cheaper than camshaft swap and cheaper than a supercharger so its a no brainer. Let's see how long it will last.

 

[281exploder]

This is the turbo kit, the only thing I'm missing is all the piping, turbo filter and i dont plan on running a bov. I'm sure I'll need bigger injectors since stock is already at 90% duty cycle but haven't figured out what to get yet. Still cheaper than cam swap and or supercharger. But anyways here it is let me know what you think.

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[calahan#2211]

Well, I think if you sit back and look at things and start adding things up, the cam swap will cost you less and the vehicle will be up and running sooner. You also will not be killing anything to ruin emissions testing. You could do the cam swap with it's recommended components. Then go drive it. You could then do the exhaust mods. Then some intake mods. Most of the bolt on mods that people install don't do much, because the valve timing in modulars is both to short and at the wrong phasing/location. Part of getting the most usable power for the least money spent in the long run is the cam swap. I have spec'd out and installed cams in multiple modulars, they all have their different needs. The fact of the issue is, Ford under cams their engines from the factory. I have cams in my 5.0l DOHC Cobra, My 3V Sport Trac, done a couple of different ones in it. And, I have a set of Bullets going into my PI 2V also. Hell, I even have some regrinds for my 4.0L SOHC in my Mustang convertible coming to me. You can install performance camshafts in just about any engine and improve on its efficiency. Depending on how radical they are they can even pass through emissions testing too. I helped a friend spec out a 347 in his '99 Mountaineer. I tell ya that one is a barnstormer!! It goes right through emissions testing. Burns clean right out of the tailpipe, runs like a scalded ass ape and gets the same economy to boot. He drives it everywhere! The farther and deeper you get into the rabbit hole of the turbo set up, rear mounts don't respond very well either, the more money, time and experience you will need. Remember, that turbo set up needs exhaust fabricated, that cost money. It will also need the tuning, fuel mods and other items needed. You also won't be able to get it done in a long weekend and go play. then do something also and go play. Then do something else and go on a date or what ever you like to do. I'm telling ya, I have most of the stuff people do to cars at some point in my life. If you want something to play with and be reliable, sit back look around ask for advice from those you see that are doing it on regular basis. Then heed that advice...

 

[281exploder]

Well, I think if you sit back and look at things and start adding things up, the cam swap will cost you less and the vehicle will be up and running sooner. You also will not be killing anything to ruin emissions testing. You could do the cam swap with it's recommended components. Then go drive it. You could then do the exhaust mods. Then some intake mods. Most of the bolt on mods that people install don't do much, because the valve timing in modulars is both to short and at the wrong phasing/location. Part of getting the most usable power for the least money spent in the long run is the cam swap. I have spec'd out and installed cams in multiple modulars, they all have their different needs. The fact of the issue is, Ford under cams their engines from the factory. I have cams in my 5.0l DOHC Cobra, My 3V Sport Trac, done a couple of different ones in it. And, I have a set of Bullets going into my PI 2V also. Hell, I even have some regrinds for my 4.0L SOHC in my Mustang convertible coming to me. You can install performance camshafts in just about any engine and improve on its efficiency. Depending on how radical they are they can even pass through emissions testing too. I helped a friend spec out a 347 in his '99 Mountaineer. I tell ya that one is a barnstormer!! It goes right through emissions testing. Burns clean right out of the tailpipe, runs like a scalded ass ape and gets the same economy to boot. He drives it everywhere! The farther and deeper you get into the rabbit hole of the turbo set up, rear mounts don't respond very well either, the more money, time and experience you will need. Remember, that turbo set up needs exhaust fabricated, that cost money. It will also need the tuning, fuel mods and other items needed. You also won't be able to get it done in a long weekend and go play. then do something also and go play. Then do something else and go on a date or what ever you like to do. I'm telling ya, I have most of the stuff people do to cars at some point in my life. If you want something to play with and be reliable, sit back look around ask for advice from those you see that are doing it on regular basis. Then heed that advice...

Well the cam swap would be cheaper if I didn't have to pay for labor for fabricating the turbo kit which thankfully I don't have to. Also plan on keeping emissions related stuff like cats. I have a muffler and resonator delete the exhaust is cut off right where the y pipe ends after the cats. I have a diagram of the whole turbo setup and it's going to work perfect. Perfectly spaced, perfect mounting and not to far from the intake. I'm going to try and upload the diagram so you get what I'm saying. Furthermore all the N/A mods you could want are just way to expensive and add up to the same cost of the turbo kit which I can also do myself. While the cams get a bump of 10-50 horsepower and somewhat torque i can make 5 times as much on a turbo setup for the same price. Like I said no brainer. I can tune myself also well I'm slowly in the learning process at the least. And I've also done everything you can think of to a car like you. It's just I'm new to the modular engines never wasted a second or a penny on them because I'm more of a LS guy, I can list more reasons but not worth going down that rabbit hole. I got my hands on this explorer to beat on. This is a 21 year old vehicle and nothing special. I just thought it would be cool as he'll to make it a sleeper but options are very limited especially on a budget. Its is a daily but i have multiple of those like a wise man. I don't need advice on what to do I'm not that guy to say the least. Like I said I'm new to the modular engines i know I'm late to the party but just looking to add power cheaply and found out the hard way a rear mount is the best option. Front mounting the turbo would be more expensive because I would need custom headers which is why I'm going rear mount. Also I've been in rear mount turbo setups in the past and as long as you spec out a good turbo for your application there is no such thing as turbo lag. Only people who spec turbos themselves and actually dealt with turbos know this, you can either spec your turbo for quick spool up for the low end or bigger for more top end. If you go to small you will choke the engine before you make it lag on a rear mount, if you go to big you will get lag no matter what on a rear mount. Not a youtube mechanic, I've dealt with these things first hand.