5 liter header install (rant)

[james t]

ok, i finally got off my butt and ordered some gaskets/header bolts to get my FMS headers on. i already knew what to expect price-wise, but dayum...

stage 8 locking header bolts---------------- $41.99
Pearcy's dead soft aluminum gaskets----- $34.99
shipping------------------------------------------$10.79

total-----------------------------------------------$87.77

well, at least they wont ever leak once i get them on. you guys with leaky stock headers... here's your permanent fix.

 

[james t]

here you can see how the locking header bolts work...

 

[section525]

James I need these. Where did you get em? Mine sound horrible now!

 

[james t]

www.jegs.com

bolts # 08688913

gaskets # 076066014

 

[98X5.0]

James: You were smart to use the Percys gaskets. I think they are probably the best choice. I was a retard and used the gaskets that came with the headers (yeah, someone should have kicked my ass) and managed to blow the drivers side out on the first full throttle pass. I ended up going with copper since the local speed shop was "fresh out" of the Percys and I needed to get the thing back together.

I'll warn you, the passenger side is quite fun to get through the wheel well and then get lined up. I recommend loud cursing and much beer. Of course I had the freakin EGR boss to get past everything as well. I ended up unbolting the shock to gain a little clearance, buttered it up, and managed to pass it through like a 5 pound kidney stone. Collector flange will be too far forward as well which adds much fun also. Drivers side is real easy. I didn't even need to "modify" the dipstick as suggested in the instructions. Seems to clearance itself without much effort. Oh, those little locking clips are fun to install as well. Worth the hassle though.

Best of luck, for me it seemed like a lifetime of effort for minimal results. But by god, when I open my hood and see those headers, my pants get tight and it makes it all seem worthwhile. I think.

Let us know how you make out and whether or not you notice a marked improvement in performance.

 

[MikeTEC]

I used the gasket supplied with the FMS headers plus the Stage 8 locking bolts and washers. So far, no problems or leaks through heavy, hot towing, sometimes in mountain pulling a travel trailer.

Don't know the port dimensions of Jame's gaskets, but I could not find any gaskets, metal or copper, that fit the headers perfectly like the FMS gaskets supplied.

I credit my header success so far to the excellent stainless stage 8 locking bolts and washers. They are outstanding product, IMO. Mike

 

[james t]

Originally posted by MikeTEC
Don't know the port dimensions of Jame's gaskets, but I could not find any gaskets, metal or copper, that fit the headers perfectly like the FMS gaskets supplied.

copper and aluminum both can be easily fitted to the header primary openings with a die grinder or a dremel tool. no need to look for an exact match, its kinda expected that the buyer will fit them to their application.

 

[MikeTEC]

Thanks, James. I will remember that if I ever need to have mine replaced. I thought the gaskets needed to be an exact fit. I did notice the supplied FMS gaskets had an aluminimum laminent sandwiched between. You can be sure I will put aluminium or copper ones on if I ever need to. Again, thanks for the information, James. Mike

 

[tmsoko]

Wow, I guess I have gotten lucky. I have 24K miles on my FRPP headers and no problems. I used the FRPP supplied gaskets and bolts!

 

[TAS98xlt]

question

Can I use these bolts and gaskets on the stock manifolds?

 

[james t]

yes, you can. that was the original reason i started this thread, was to help others possibly fix the stockers if they leak.

 

[TAS98xlt]

Oh.. my bad. I don't read really well.

Thanks James! I went ahead and bought some at summit.

 

[98X5.0]

Ted: If you have the cast manifolds the locking bolts aren't going to work. The cast manifolds are way too thick around the flange areas. On my 98 the gaskets were fine, problem was the bolts were barley hand tight. I discovered this after I spent a small fortune on headers, bolts etc. A little tightening and my ticking would have been history. Now I hear it all the time thanks to the tubular FMS headers.

 

[james t]

ah...... thanks 98X5.0- i didnt even think of that. mine had the tubular ones stock, so i sometimes forget that some came with a regular manifold. if this is the case, just use a copper/aluminum gasket and the regular bolts. this will help out alot, and keep an eye on the torque readings.

 

[TAS98xlt]

Thanks for the heads up, 98X5.0.

 

[rocket 5979]

Sure wish i had a 5.0 explorer to have fun with.

 

[jjue]

After about a year from the day of purchase, I finally installed my FMS headers on the Mountaineer. Talk about a pain in the ass. If it wasn't for the fact that I got a bonus a work this week, I'd be hurting from the $300 in tools that bought to make the job easier and actually possible in some cases.

Anyway, I found on the driver's side that it was easier for me to disconnect one of the fuel return lines and to take off a heat shield from the compressor to get the old header out. I did notice that half of the bolts could not be tighted with a a socket, and I had to buy a set of stubby combo wrenches and a set of crows feet to get this tightened and to the right torque spec. I also disconnected the steering shaft for more room, and I forgot to pull out the dipstick before removing the header, necessitating a trip two 2 for dealers for a new one.

On the passenger side, I found that removal was easiest by removing the two bolts from the front of the inner fender and moving it aside to slide the header forward and out with very little effort. On the other hand, I had to struggle with sliding the new header in per instructions since the new tubing prevented easy entry, and the pry bar was my friend. The bolts were easy to tighten as most could be done with a socket. Of course the collector flange on the passenger side was definitely difficult due to the requirement of a u-joint and several extension combined with limited turning space.

Anyway, that's done, and I hope that I don't have to do anything to it until I replace the engine.

 

[ckb2steelers]

Where did you guys get the FMS headers and how much were they? And are they still available?

Cleve

 

[james t]

they are no longer available.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Wait untill you have to pull those little washers off...

I ran the stage 8's in my stang and loved them....untill I changed my heads.....I got so mad and my hands bashed up I ended up droping my X pipe and pulling the headers off with the heads to get them off....and the little clips that hold the washers on usually break....

when I cracked my passanger side stock header on my 5.0 explorer it only took me 1 hour to replace....just pull the tire off...and pull the inner cover off...