96 4R55E Transmission problems | Ford Explorer Forums

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96 4R55E Transmission problems

JonPetrush

Member
Joined
February 8, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Woodstock, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 Eddie Bower
Ok, I have been reading this forum for a little while, and would have liked to make a first post as a helping hand, but it comes in the form of question, since this has to be the best conglomerate of human resources that happen to be all-knowing when it comes to the random quirks of the explorer.

Anyways, my problem is that I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 4x4 EB, 4.0L 4R55E Tranny. I have recently had to rebuild the transfer case due to the gear comming out of meshing, and grinding. The problem solved, My newest problem comes in the form of the Transmission. The current transmission has 195K miles on her, but only 30K since last rebuilding.

I have no flashing O/D lights, or Error codes being thrown, and yet my transmission seems to slip from 1-2, and from 2-3. It just started doing this recently. It occurs duing natural driving, where it seems to go into neutral during the shift point, then if I let up on the throttle just a little bit, will catch into the gear it should be. 2-3 is quite a bit more exxagerated then the 1-2 slip. If I am above 3500 rpm, say pressing the pedal pretty hard, during the point that the 2-3 should occur it will go into full neutral, and rev to almost 5K rpm, then once the rpms get low enough ( by letting off the throttle, ) will cath into place, however it feels like whenever it does catch into place in either 2nd, or 3rd that there is a little bit of slipping occuring. The torque converter seems to operate fine, in the sense that I can go through the arrangement of gears, and hold the throttle down, and the stall rate is within specs for the manual. During normal driving : 1st, 4th, OD, and Reverse operate very strong, with not signs of degration. I attempted to retorque the Intermediate band, and figured I would retoruqe the overdrive band while I was at it.

My question would come in the form of what are the most likely candidates given the description above. I have read else where that it is possible valve body, or solenoid dirt/clog. This weekend I will be taking the pan off, to check the valve body, solenoids/etc. But I would like to have some input if anyone else has had similar problems. The part that just catches me as odd is that the ECU doesn't catch excessive slippage, or report any error codes. I know the light is not burnt out either, becuase when you turn O/D off it illuminates correctly.

I would be referencing the manual first, but I have lost my manual since I moved recently after getting out of the military. as a side note, I am not afraid to get dirty, and have a pretty large plethora of tools at my disposal, so feel free to get as technical as possible. ( I have all weekend to have fun with it. )

~jon

When of when will the poor 4R55E be running again, so I can replace the ring and pinion for the rear (which is showing wear) Curses off roading, so much fun., but so much money ;)
 



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This may sound dumb but carefully retorque the VB using a decent 1/4 inch torque wrench. often as not this is the main culprit, internal leakage. Add a plug to the pan, you may be back a few times <g> and yes you are chasing a VB gremlin IMHO.
 






thanks for your quick response.

woohoo, when I was a kid, I alsways wanted a gremlin, just this one doesn't sound cute and furry. lol, I installed the drain plug from the first time I rebuilt the thing, thinking the worst, although the worst really never came, until now. So your best opinion would be to loosen the entire plethora of VB screws, and then go back through the nausiating torqing sequence, using perhaps one of the finer 1/4 torque wrenches ( the needle type, as opposed to the click type. ) Man do I wish I had a nice digital torque wrench :). I think that would probably be the easiest point of entry anyhow, as opposed to taking down the solenoids first, which would probably ultimately lead to the valve body again.

~jon
 






well the 4R55/5R55 early models had a HUGE problem with VB torques being culprits.... I have found it interesting there are not thicker VB gaskets for them, just the A4LD.... but I suppose the pressures the EPC can put out make that a problem. So yes start there first.

I am just foraying into the 4R/5R after more or less cutting my teeth on the A4LD. I am wondering if 3M spray cement might be a good idea (just thinking out loud, not suggesting, yet). Let's start with the VB torque and go from there. And yeah.... I have a nice dial type 1/4 inch wrench, but if I had to buy a strain gauge digital model that would be the torque area I'd buy one in.

(dream on)

In other words, these babies are VERY torque sensitive. Let's start there.

ps. I'd go ahead and replace the gaskets too.
 






You mean the poor excuse for a gasket. That think might as well be cheap copier paper, or even cheaper notebook paper. ( ok maybe a little thicker, but not much. ). I remeber when I first took apart the valve body on the inital rebuild, The damn gasket was soo rotted, no matter where I touched it flaked away ( of course only where I didn't care., ) never where I needed it. It took me forever to get it off the actual metal, in which it had somehow molecularly bonded itself to the surface ( After enough random soaking, and light scrubbing it slowly found its way off. [ engouh meaning 10s of hours ].

Of course I will definitely take your advice in replacing the gasket at the same time, as you know that as soon as I loosen those screws one part of the gasket somewhere is going to rip off., ( Of course I could use the time of taking the lower valve body off to go through and clean it again. )


~jon
 






you don't happen to have a scan of the torque sequence for the valve body handy ( in case the new manual doesn't come in before the weekend? )


`Jon
 






I'll check and see what I have, yet I find imagination works wonders on huge layout torque sequences... as VB's are. Do it in 3 -4 steps and dream away ... in the wildest non linear thinking you can muster is my motto <g>. I'll look.
 






Ok here it is. Finally after waiting sooo long (and my reverse seemed to start going out next.) I finally found the time to take the transmission apart again. Except only the valve body. I had ordered the TransGo Shift Fix kit. And took the valve body off. After taking it apart, I realized there were some very big issues. Some of the valve pistons ( well only the ones I cared about ) were sticky, Which caused some of my errors I was having. I could have probably bolted right back up, but I decided to install the shift kit as well. The new springs, The cross drill, plug a hole with brass rivet etc. After all was packed back up and assembled I went for a test drive. I was sooo happy to see that no longer was I getting the shift flare from before. All shifts were fast and firm. At any rate thank for the good sugestion that took me so long to complete. And what made me start going into it more was seeing your post from quite some while ago about the 4r55e valvebody rebuild diary.

Keep it up ohh guru of the X transmissions.
 






I'm delighted to hear. Ya know I say this time and again, but VB repair CAN certainly be DIY at a huge savings... and in the 4R/5R it seems the majority of problems reside there. Glad you got it fixed and everything is good. Thanks for coming back and posting your results.

ps. Thank you for your kind words. Makes it all worthwhile.
 






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