A/C evaporator core leak | Ford Explorer Forums

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A/C evaporator core leak

sandyr

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Joined
April 10, 2001
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City, State
Delta, B.C. Canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XL
Last year I had my A/C looked at and found a dye presence coming out the vents inside. the tech told me that this was because of a leaky evap core. I unplugged the compressor switch and haven't used it since. Well, its starting to warm up again and I would love to have my A/C back.Has anyone tried the "R-134A Maxi Seal Kit" by Interdynamics? Would something like this work and if it didn't would I be causing alot more damage. As it is I figure I will have to replace the Evap Core, Accumulator and probably the Orifice. Any comments?
 



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The use of sealants has even the professionals divided. Many (most) feel that they leave stuff to gunk up the system in their aftermath. Others DO use them. There have been reported results on here that sound good but do not have much history. I agree fully with your tech, and also with your assessment of what will need to be replaced, though I doubt the orifice valve will need replacement. I suppose the best advice is this - if you plan to keep your Ex a long long time, do it right. If you plan to keep it a few years maybe, go ahead with the sealant <damn it hurts to say that>. HTH


Happy Exploring

Chris
 






I should add, if you haven't use it in a year... adding a kit into a "dead" system goes against everything in my body. It should be evacuated, and 134a and the sealant added, not just trying to add it into a discharged system. If the system has been discharged for along time the accumulator replacement is a "must". As I re-read your port.. I suspect your system is devoid of 134a.... Read this thread and especially the one linked near the end by V8:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77331



Happy Exploring

Chris
 






Thanks for the info. I was going to get it evacuated first as I know it must have moisture in it by now. I like my exploder, (rebuilt tranny, manual hubs, radius arm bushings, upper and lowers, bell housing seal after tranny rebuid while on holiday...) it has good room for my labrador and I haven't got stuck yet while in the back country hunting. Will I keep it? I think so. Hold it a minute!!! I just got talked into spending more money! Also I have to go to the U.S. to get the parts at a resonable price. Any suggestions for suppliers? When you buy the accumulator and evaporator do they come with the orings?
 






these days they usually do, the green kind. I recommend Ny-Log as a sealant. It's universally available and if you ask the AC guys if they will Ny-Log the seals they may a) think you are nuts, or : b) think you know what's what and do a better job. What part of BC?

Happy Exploring

Chris
 






Live around Vancouver. I hunt in the Cariboo for big game and everywhere for waterfowl. Running on 31 x 10.50 Discovery ST. Love these tires.

I was going to do the work myself but have the pros do the evacuation. Is it better to have them do the recharge as well? It's pricey north of the 49th parallel. In the Haynes manual they say empty the oil from the accumulator and take that quantity plus 2 oz. of new oil and add back to new accumulator. It then refers to adding 3 oz. to the accumulator inlet tube when replacing the evaportor core. Is the the correct amount? The condensor is new and was installed by a pro last year. Whats the trick to the spring locks?
 






Your condensor should be ok, obviously. You will be replacing the accumulator and the evaporator, I'll have to check on the oil capacity. The explorer compressors tend to die for any lack of oil so I might be inclined to not scrimp.... especially if you are using ester oil and not PAG. Is yours an original 134a system? (PAG) or converted (ester) ?

Spring locks just need a special tool that slide into them and unlock them. Most auto stores ought to have em. If you let the shop evac, I'd let them charge i ttoo,,, best done as a 1 - 2 step. HTH

Happy Exploring

Chris
 






Thanks very much for all the info. I have one of the spring lock tools but wasn't sure how much pressure or leverage was neccessary. My '94 is a stock r134a so no problem with conversion. They probably have the instructions with the core and accumulator. Any suggestions on a good (and cheap) supplier? Any brands to stay away from?
 












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