AC not working.

[VincentJenkins]

I was noticing that the air was not cooling properly. I decided to add some refrigerant. I have gages and have done this work on my car previously. I bought some cans of refrigerant and tried to charge the system. It would not accept any refrigerant and now the AC has completely stopped working.

I bought a new pressure switch and replaced it. I pumped the entire system down and pulled a vacuum. It held pressure and after giving it some time to sit, I attempted to charge the system. Turned the car on, turned AC on. Tried to slowly charge through the low pressure side. It wouldn't take the charge. Same as before.

Additionally, at no point did I hear the AC compressor turn on.

Is it the compressor? How can I check?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Odrapnew]

You might need to jump the compressor to get it to kick on briefly (cycle it on/off) until the pressure is high enough to trigger the switch.
When the pressure is below a set point, the compressor won't kick on. Maybe that's why it's not taking a charge. Just a guess. It's been 15 years since I last refilled a system.

Also, are you sure it's not taking refrigerant? Maybe it's just slow or needs more time to fill the system.

 

[TXScott]

Sounds like compressor problem since it won't start, put a voltmeter on it to verify.

 

[VincentJenkins]

You might need to jump the compressor to get it to kick on briefly (cycle it on/off) until the pressure is high enough to trigger the switch.
When the pressure is below a set point, the compressor won't kick on. Maybe that's why it's not taking a charge. Just a guess. It's been 15 years since I last refilled a system.

Also, are you sure it's not taking refrigerant? Maybe it's just slow or needs more time to fill the system.

I tried to jump the compressor through the AC relay but it did not work. It made a slight clicking sound.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The pressure switch has to be jumped. Did you check the fuse? Sometimes the blend door actuator is the issue since it stops moving, and only makes a clicking noise.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

The pressure switch has to be jumped. Did you check the fuse? Sometimes the blend door actuator is the issue since it stops moving, and only makes a clicking noise.

It doesn't have any "pressure switches" that can be jumped, those went away years ago on the Explorer. They moved to the evaporator temperature sensor starting with the 2011 MY. A blend door issue will not interfere with the compressor clutch engagement.

OP:
You need BOTH gauges and a scan tool or equivalent so you can see what the computer is seeing and doing. Without both tools, you're doomed to fumble around in the dark hoping to get lucky.

Also, make sure you have a gauge adapter for the new self-sealing cans. If you have the wrong adapter, there will be no refrigerant flow.

If the system had been pulled down to a hard vacuum, that first can should have pretty much jumped into the system once connected without the engine or compressor running. If nothing went in, you have a problem with the hose, adapter, or can that is preventing refrigerant flow.

Once you get that first amount of refrigerant in there, the computer will see the pressure supplied from the can and the initial charge and will allow limited compressor operation barring other faults (which you likely have). Since you "pumped down the system", you now have two problems - no refrigerant and the original problem.

 

[Odrapnew]

It doesn't have any "pressure switches" that can be jumped, those went away years ago on the Explorer. They moved to the evaporator temperature sensor starting with the 2011 MY. A blend door issue will not interfere with the compressor clutch engagement.

OP:
You need BOTH gauges and a scan tool or equivalent so you can see what the computer is seeing and doing. Without both tools, you're doomed to fumble around in the dark hoping to get lucky.

Also, make sure you have a gauge adapter for the new self-sealing cans. If you have the wrong adapter, there will be no refrigerant flow.

If the system had been pulled down to a hard vacuum, that first can should have pretty much jumped into the system once connected without the engine or compressor running. If nothing went in, you have a problem with the hose, adapter, or can that is preventing refrigerant flow.

Once you get that first amount of refrigerant in there, the computer will see the pressure supplied from the can and the initial charge and will allow limited compressor operation barring other faults (which you likely have). Since you "pumped down the system", you now have two problems - no refrigerant and the original problem.

Good call on the adapter.
I had to get one of those and took me a few minutes to figure out that what I thought was opening (lefty loosey) was actually closing it off.
Had to turn the valve in to get it to open.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

I tried to jump the compressor through the AC relay but it did not work. It made a slight clicking sound.

Which SPECIFIC relay pins did you jump?

Is this a turbo or non-turbo 3.5L? The turbo has an EVDC compressor with an extra control for the amount of displacement that is controlled directly by the PCM.

 

[VincentJenkins]

You might need to jump the compressor to get it to kick on briefly (cycle it on/off) until the pressure is high enough to trigger the switch.
When the pressure is below a set point, the compressor won't kick on. Maybe that's why it's not taking a charge. Just a guess. It's been 15 years since I last refilled a system.

Also, are you sure it's not taking refrigerant? Maybe it's just slow or needs more time to fill the system.

I noticed that the low pressure switch has 3 pins. Which ones do you jump?

 

[VincentJenkins]

It doesn't have any "pressure switches" that can be jumped, those went away years ago on the Explorer. They moved to the evaporator temperature sensor starting with the 2011 MY. A blend door issue will not interfere with the compressor clutch engagement.

OP:
You need BOTH gauges and a scan tool or equivalent so you can see what the computer is seeing and doing. Without both tools, you're doomed to fumble around in the dark hoping to get lucky.

Also, make sure you have a gauge adapter for the new self-sealing cans. If you have the wrong adapter, there will be no refrigerant flow.

If the system had been pulled down to a hard vacuum, that first can should have pretty much jumped into the system once connected without the engine or compressor running. If nothing went in, you have a problem with the hose, adapter, or can that is preventing refrigerant flow.

Once you get that first amount of refrigerant in there, the computer will see the pressure supplied from the can and the initial charge and will allow limited compressor operation barring other faults (which you likely have). Since you "pumped down the system", you now have two problems - no refrigerant and the original problem.

You're correct. When I pulled the vacuum and hooked the 1st can up, it took 5 ounces. After that, nothing. I have a simple scan tool but not an advanced tool. Judging by the amount of problems I'm having, that's probably next when I can afford it. What else can I do?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Replace the orifice tube valve.

 

[VincentJenkins]

Which SPECIFIC relay pins did you jump?

Is this a turbo or non-turbo 3.5L? The turbo has an EVDC compressor with an extra control for the amount of displacement that is controlled directly by the PCM.

This is a 3.5l. The relay does not have a pins switch diagram on the side of it.. There are 4 pins. I just tried a few options. Nothing worked. It's #98 in the under the hood fuse panel

 

[peterk9]

Which SPECIFIC relay pins did you jump?

Is this a turbo or non-turbo 3.5L? The turbo has an EVDC compressor with an extra control for the amount of displacement that is controlled directly by the PCM.

Profile shows 3.5L XLT which would be non-turbo.

Peter

 

[ProjectSHO89]

I noticed that the low pressure switch has 3 pins. Which ones do you jump?

You don't, see my previous comment.

Replace the orifice tube valve.

It doesn't have one of those. It uses a TXV which, even if defective, would not cause his current issues.

Beware of folks who are trying to help but are not familiar with how the system actually works. Seriously, guys, if you do not know exactly how the thing works, don't just throw stuff out there....

There are 4 pins. I just tried a few options. Nothing worked. It's #98 in the under the hood fuse panel

Refer to the following image:

Pin 1 is the ACCR signal from the PCM to energize the AC Clutch Relay
Pin 2 is switched battery power via the PCM Power Relay and fuse F70. Should be HOT IN RUN.
Pin 3 is ALWAYS HOT via fuse F62.
Pin 5 is the lead to the compressor clutch coil.

Use meter to verify power on pins 2 & 3.
Jumper pins 3 & 5 and the clutch coil *should* energize assuming not other circuit faults.

 

[ProjectSHO89]

After that, nothing. I have a simple scan tool but not an advanced tool. Judging by the amount of problems I'm having, that's probably next when I can afford it. What else can I do?

Forscan, either the windows version with free extended license or Forscan Lite (Android,$5) along with a recommended OBDII adapter ($35-40 on Amazon) will allow you to read the necessary live data to see what the PCM is (or isn't) trying to do. Used in conjunction with your manifold gauges, you can get a pretty good idea of what's going on.

 

[VincentJenkins]

You don't, see my previous comment.


It doesn't have one of those. It uses a TXV which, even if defective, would not cause his current issues.

Beware of folks who are trying to help but are not familiar with how the system actually works. Seriously, guys, if you do not know exactly how the thing works, don't just throw stuff out there....


Refer to the following image:

Pin 1 is the ACCR signal from the PCM to energize the AC Clutch Relay
Pin 2 is switched battery power via the PCM Power Relay and fuse F70. Should be HOT IN RUN.
Pin 3 is ALWAYS HOT via fuse F62.
Pin 5 is the lead to the compressor clutch coil.

Use meter to verify power on pins 2 & 3.
Jumper pins 3 & 5 and the clutch coil *should* energize assuming not other circuit faults.

View attachment 433296

Thank you. I will try that in the morning. Very helpful.

 

[VincentJenkins]

Forscan, either the windows version with free extended license or Forscan Lite (Android,$5) along with a recommended OBDII adapter ($35-40 on Amazon) will allow you to read the necessary live data to see what the PCM is (or isn't) trying to do. Used in conjunction with your manifold gauges, you can get a pretty good idea of what's going on.

OK I'll get it and try it early tomorrow morning. Have an appointment with a technician I can't afford tomorrow at 10am.

You don't, see my previous comment.


It doesn't have one of those. It uses a TXV which, even if defective, would not cause his current issues.

Beware of folks who are trying to help but are not familiar with how the system actually works. Seriously, guys, if you do not know exactly how the thing works, don't just throw stuff out there....


Refer to the following image:

Pin 1 is the ACCR signal from the PCM to energize the AC Clutch Relay
Pin 2 is switched battery power via the PCM Power Relay and fuse F70. Should be HOT IN RUN.
Pin 3 is ALWAYS HOT via fuse F62.
Pin 5 is the lead to the compressor clutch coil.

Use meter to verify power on pins 2 & 3.
Jumper pins 3 & 5 and the clutch coil *should* energize assuming not other circuit faults.

View attachment 433296

OK I jumped the clutch and the clutch is engaging. I am going to try to charge charge the system. Just bought a R1234 adapter for my manifold gauge set. Since I have already added refrigerant to the system I'm a little reluctant to pull it down to vacuum again. Do you have a charging chart? Since this is a TXV is there a subcooling target for this model? 3.5l

 

[VincentJenkins]

You don't, see my previous comment.


It doesn't have one of those. It uses a TXV which, even if defective, would not cause his current issues.

Beware of folks who are trying to help but are not familiar with how the system actually works. Seriously, guys, if you do not know exactly how the thing works, don't just throw stuff out there....


Refer to the following image:

Pin 1 is the ACCR signal from the PCM to energize the AC Clutch Relay
Pin 2 is switched battery power via the PCM Power Relay and fuse F70. Should be HOT IN RUN.
Pin 3 is ALWAYS HOT via fuse F62.
Pin 5 is the lead to the compressor clutch coil.

Use meter to verify power on pins 2 & 3.
Jumper pins 3 & 5 and the clutch coil *should* energize assuming not other circuit faults.

View attachment 433296

I jumped the clutch and and confirmed it is spinning.. Attached my gages and tried to add refrigerant. Though I am reading pressure in the system the compressor isn't turning on an pulling refrigerant into the system. I would imagine this means I have a bad compressor.

Any ideas?


Does anybody have a link to a good video on how to change the compressor in a 2015 3.5 l Ford Explorer X board Explorer XLT? Does anybody have a link to a good video on how to change the compressor in a 2015 3.5 lt Ford Explorer XLT?

 

[ProjectSHO89]

Though I am reading pressure in the system the compressor isn't turning on an pulling refrigerant into the system. I would imagine this means I have a bad compressor.

No, that's not what it means. It means the PCM probably isn't telling the clutch to engage (for whatever reason). You have to determine that reason and that's where the necessity to see what the PCM is doing is essential.

bought a R1234 adapter for my manifold gauge set.

The 2015 Explorer uses R134a refrigerant... not R1234yf.