Air Ram hood for 2000 XLT SOHC 6 cyl

[jayhawkexplorer]

Okily dokily, man. Wasn't sure what the context was, but did sound like a reprimand, so reacted accordingly. Excuse my quick retort.

To clear up your confusion athertonw...

If your question is regarding fixing a problem with stock equipment on the vehicle (i.e. what's that damn noise coming from my front suspension?), it goes in the "Stock" section.

If your question is regarding a modification to the vehicle or a problem with a modification already made, it goes in the "Modified" section.

Welcome to the site and always remember, the search button is your first and best friend!

 

[NC_Xplorer]

Hoods

The cowl induction hood will allow cold air to be pulled in if the airflow from the front is not that great. If you have no obstructions on the radiator it actually will allow better airflow to go past the engine, pulling the hot air out and over the windshield. On older vehicles with carbs, this forced cooler air to enter the carb. In our Explorers, we will benifit from the hot air being removed, allowing us to run headers and also will help improve the airflow through the radiator. If you are looking for a cowl induction hood, try Explorer Express. http://www.explorerexpress.com/hoods/ The hoods are priced at $425.

 

[Jakee]

410
I agree a cooler air charge builds more H.P (1H.P/10degs)
Ram air and cowl induction in the days of carbed engines worked very well.
With todays engines and the location of our intakes, I do not think they would do anything worthwhile.
If one could use a shaker type hood, run extensive ducting to the intake direct, perhaps a slight reduction in IAT would be seen,at this point I do not anyone has done such a mod (shaker hood yes, ducting no).
Besides at speeds above about 40MPH your IAT is at ambiant temp and cannot get any cooler, shielding or no sheilding, it makes no diff.
Turbulant air can be a problem with certain CAIs at low rpms but not at anything above approx 1000 rpms, try this: at idle, with your air nozzle, blow some air on the filter, the engine will die, why? turbulant air and a closed throttle, is not a problem when your moving.
I always look at H.P gains verses bux spent, sure I spent 300 bux for my offroad Y pipe, but it got me 7 H.P (dyno proven)well worth the money spent to me.
Any aftermarket unpainted Hood will run 800/1000 Bux, say you could reduce the IAT by 20 degs just by venting hot engine bay air, so than you get 2 H.P, in traffic or at idle, what good is it?JMO

Spindle - Sorry but it's not turbulance that's killing the engine. It's the rapid change in the MAF sensor because of the air you just blew in it while the throttle was closed.

 

[expo5.0]

mine now-

not fully bolted together in that picture- but totally functional