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Another IAC question. Got stuck now!

xdviper

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February 15, 2007
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT
Alright here's the deal, right now I'm stuck here in the X, in hot weather typing this on my phone, the problem is ill crank the ignition, it will seem like its going to start up, the rpms go up to 600-800rpm and then it stalls out. Its currently about 90*F here.
After I get this X started, I'm driving right down to autozone, swapping out the IAC. Now before I go ahead, is it the IAC? Or something else. I've read a couple times on these forums that the IAC is the main culpirt when it comes to stalling out or rough idles next to the intakes and etc.

Thanks... wow its hot out today. Also I had the a.c on the whole time and I drove for about 10minutes before parking the car.
 



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once is starts up, does it continue to run if you feed it a bit of gas?
 






if it won't stay started with gas, I'd check to see if the "theft" light is coming on. It could be the passlock. In such a case you can try disconnecting the battery for about 30mins and pray it works.
 






Try holding gas pedal half way down when you turn the key. After it starts you will have to keep the engined reved and "feather" the gas until the engine warms up and it will then idle
 






My vote is IAC.......
 






The anti-theft feature disables the starter motor, if the anti-theft system was activated, the engine would not even crank or turn over.
 






Try cleaning the IAC first before you replace it. Spray inside the two holes with some carb cleaner and then take the black plastic cap off the IAC and check the filter. If it's dirty, it will affect your idle and possibly start-up. I just did mine this weekend because I had an erratic idle and cleaning the IAC and replacing the filter inside the plastic cap with cotton fixed it. It seems I have to do this once about every 50K miles or so.
 






Thanks guys, after waiting for about 30min, it decided to start up and idle at normal rpms.

Yes it does stay on when I give it some gas and keep it at steady 800-900rpms but once I remove my feet from the pedal it stalls out.

Ill deff give the carb cleaner a try. And also I've noticed, there's no gasket between the IAC and the thorttlebody, is there supossed to be one there?
 






I had the exact same problem...after waiting a period of time (1/2 hour seemed right) it would start and run fine. I cleaned my MAF and so far it hasn't happened for a while now (knocking on would as I type).
 






The anti-theft feature disables the starter motor, if the anti-theft system was activated, the engine would not even crank or turn over.

I see, I thought it worked like the other manufacturers in that it starts then cuts off.
 






There should be a thin paper gasket on the IAC, perhaps it fell off when you removed the IAC valve.
 






There is a rubber O-ring (green) that looks like a figure 8 between the IAC and intake manifold. If it's not there that could be your whole problem right there. Also of thought, has the 0012m owner notification program service ever been done to it. There's a lot of info on the website about it.
 






That's right, the o ring isn't there and when you look more closey from thr front of the vecichle, I can see a big gap... anyone have any idea where I can get that from? Junkyard maybe?
 






Ford dealer is your best bet. Most auto parts stores need to special order them... there not a stock item.
 






Went out to a bunch of junk yards today and none of them had any Explorers, that i could part out myself. So I took a quick ride to Ford, got the rubber gasket (the one that looks like an 8) and put everything back on and its still the same whining sound and still stalls out. So I guess its the IAC.

Got the gasket for $6.05 part#670
and they're asking $130 +tax for the IAC.

If I buy a generic IAC from ebay rather than getting Motorcraft IAC, would it be any different?
 






:eek: Wow, $130 for an IAC? When mine shot craps about 3 years ago or so I just bought the generic Autozone IAC for about $60. It's worked great for me, I would go that route....
 






check your fuel pressure.
 






First question is do you hear an airhorn type of sound? If you do then I think it is the IAC.

I checked at Advance Auto Parts about 3 months ago, and they wanted only $45 for an IAC! Almost wasn't worth messing with it, but I wanted to have a look. I took it off and used MAF cleaner (because there is a sensor in there) and a toothbrush to clean some black grit off, and so far haven't even heard the sound (let alone worse) from it this summer. Every summer before this it happened regularly (stalling or trying to stall and big airhorn noise after running a short time and at a stop sign).

So in the end it was worth cleaning for me, a very easy job.
 






First question is do you hear an airhorn type of sound? If you do then I think it is the IAC.

I checked at Advance Auto Parts about 3 months ago, and they wanted only $45 for an IAC! Almost wasn't worth messing with it, but I wanted to have a look. I took it off and used MAF cleaner (because there is a sensor in there) and a toothbrush to clean some black grit off, and so far haven't even heard the sound (let alone worse) from it this summer. Every summer before this it happened regularly (stalling or trying to stall and big airhorn noise after running a short time and at a stop sign).

So in the end it was worth cleaning for me, a very easy job.

Yes I do have the that whining sound coming from the IAC, I've folloowed the instructions from the IAC cleaning thread, cleaned it out and still the same problem, so I guess I'll go ahead and get a new IAC and plus while I'm under the hood I'll clean the MAF sensors and such.
 



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Go ahead and replace the IAC. Cleaning is temporary at best.
 






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