Another spark plug questions thread!

[BrianDye]

I have read numerous threads relating to changing the plugs out, but I have a few questions still, since alot of them seemed to go back and fourth.


I have a 2006 with the 4.0 V6.

About the only steady info I could get is the gap should be set between 52 and 56, so 54 to be on the safe side. Also, that the plugs are relatively easy to change, just go through the wheel well for the back passenger plug.

I keep seeing stuff about these plugs and waste something or other, and that we need special plugs.

I would normally go with Motorcraft plugs, but it seems as if some members reported a loss of power/MPGs or a rough idle with them, and ended up with some NGK plugs. I would like the best performance I can get, I don't mind spending a few extra bucks on such a crucial part, but if there's no difference, I would also rather save a few bucks per plug.

I am changing mine for a few reasons
1. Just normal maintenance at 80k miles
2. I have a bit of a rough idle, and I can hear it in the exhaust
3. I have a very slight shudder sometimes when I lightly accelerate like bumping the cruise up a mile or two per hour. Thought that was trans related, but read a post where a member described the exact same issue, and was fixed by replacing his plugs/wires.

I also have not really worked on an engine in quite some time, last engines being my old 90's Explorers. Am I JUST changing out plugs and wires here, or are there other things that should be done as well related to plugs? I thought someone said something about coils? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is that?

I would prefer to order the plugs and wires online, as it seems to be about the same price for premium parts online, as basic non-OEM quality parts are in part stores.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rcflyer330]

i just did my plugs on the passenger side I removed the intake tube and was able to access all the plugs from the top of the car. the coil is where the spark plug wires attach its a box on the top of the engine.

the wire routing on the passenger side wires will require that you remove the front belt from the alternator and remove the alternator because the wires are routed behind it depending on how old the belt is might as well replace it. on the coil pack if you want to do the coil pack then do it.

one thing i did not know when doing this job are the plugs are a taper seat style so torque is turn till it bottoms then go 1/16 of a turn.

 

[Tech By Trade]

wasted spark, the plugs fire on the exhaust and the power strokes. It really does nothing. All that happens is that the 2 wires that are in the same bank fire at the same time. Regular plugs work fine. as for your bump, transmission fluid could use a change probably. either that or band adjustment, or worst case, servo bore ware. I just did a fluid and filter on mine, and torqued up the solenoid bank and valve body while I was in there and it shifts like butter once again.

 

[BrianDye]

i just did my plugs on the passenger side I removed the intake tube and was able to access all the plugs from the top of the car. the coil is where the spark plug wires attach its a box on the top of the engine.

the wire routing on the passenger side wires will require that you remove the front belt from the alternator and remove the alternator because the wires are routed behind it depending on how old the belt is might as well replace it. on the coil pack if you want to do the coil pack then do it.

one thing i did not know when doing this job are the plugs are a taper seat style so torque is turn till it bottoms then go 1/16 of a turn.

Ok, so that thing the wires plug into is the coil pack. Might as well replace it, couldn't hurt. I'll grab a new belt as well since they're relatively cheap. Thanks for the tip about torquing the plugs.

wasted spark, the plugs fire on the exhaust and the power strokes. It really does nothing. All that happens is that the 2 wires that are in the same bank fire at the same time. Regular plugs work fine. as for your bump, transmission fluid could use a change probably. either that or band adjustment, or worst case, servo bore ware. I just did a fluid and filter on mine, and torqued up the solenoid bank and valve body while I was in there and it shifts like butter once again.

Thanks for the tips, I do plan on changing the fluid and filter. Could you tell me a little more about torquing the solenoid bank? Transmissions are like a foreign language to me, but if it needs adjusting, I'd rather do it myself.

 

[Tech By Trade]

http://www.ratiotek.com/5r55w-complete.pdf

 

[BrianDye]

Is this what you're referring to?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Thats to adjust the bands. If you want to torque the valve body and solenoid pack just torque the bolts shown on page 10 to the correct value when you have the pan off to change the filter and fluid.

PS, you need a special tool to fill the fluid back up due to lack of a dipstick.

PPS, if you aren't having issue with spark, I wouldn't bother with the coil pack.

 

[BrianDye]

Thanks for the tips man, will definitely look into doing that.

Anybody have suggestions for good plugs and wires?

 

[MotorCityFats13]

I would only buy autolite double plats.. APP5143 they always have a rebate for them $2.50 off each... so you really cant beat a set of 6 plugs for $10-$12 after rebate... the wires I would only replace them of they are off after you check their resistance with a dmm

 

[BrianDye]

I would only buy autolite double plats.. APP5143 they always have a rebate for them $2.50 off each... so you really cant beat a set of 6 plugs for $10-$12 after rebate... the wires I would only replace them of they are off after you check their resistance with a dmm

I dont have a DMM, nor do I have a clue how to use one. Those rebates seem like more work than what they're worth, last mail-in rebate I did took MONTHS before I got the rebate. Is there any other way to see if wires are bad? I didn't know wires were that damn expensive. ($60 for Motorcraft at Autozone)

Autolite has a few plugs, the ones you mentioned as Double Plat's - APP5143, is actually just Autolite Plat's. The Double Plat's are APP103 which are $4.50 from AutoZone, or $3 on RockAuto.

Im also gonna swap out the fuel filter, just saw how easy it is, so might as well. Is there a certain brand to go with or stay away from?

 

[MotorCityFats13]

Autolite has a few plugs, the ones you mentioned as Double Plat's - APP5143, is actually just Autolite Plat's. The Double Plat's are APP103 which are $4.50 from AutoZone, or $3 on RockAuto.

APP103 does not fit the 4.0L sohc those were the double plat plugs for the 4.0L OHV.... all the autolite plugs for the OHV end in 103 the sohc end in 5143

just numbers = copper
ap = single platinum
app = double platinum
xp = iridium

 

[BrianDye]

Gonna buy the plugs today, when I search Autozone for the Autolite Double Plats for a 2006 Explorer 4.0 SOHC it only brings up the APP103. You sure those aren't the right ones?

Edit: every other one is 5143, so the pros must've made a typo in the compatibility list. Advance lists the APP5143 for the 06, but of course nobody has them in stock.

What would be the next best option? I don't mind if they're a little more expensive but I saw some recommendations on $15/each plugs that's insane

 

[swshawaii]

Autolite XP5143 Iridium?
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4368600&cc=1432148

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432148,parttype,7212

 

[BrianDye]

Totally forgot about the O'Riellys store we have. Picked up the APP5143's for about $4.50 a pop.
Never done plugs before besides low-mileage 4 cylinders where they are right on top and take 5 minutes to change. Wish me luck!

 

[BrianDye]

Reading some more threads and getting cold feet about swapping my plugs.

I also am curious as to what sockets/adapters/extensions everybody uses, I dont have any swivel adapters, just probably 1.5' worth of extensions. Do I need any swivels?

Remove passenger wheel and liner and get the passenger back plug(s) through there? Engine is still somewhat warm, ok or no? If not, ill probably have to put this off again since im working the next 14 days, and cant risk being without a vehicle if I break a plug or something.

 

[BrianDye]

Got all 6 changed out, didnt remove anything, besides about half of the liner of the passenger fender. Not the thick wheel well liner, but the flimsy part that goes by the shock and whatnot.

Just used a combination of a 3", 6" and the length of the spark plug socket with the rubber boot in it to hold the plug in. No swivel or fancy attachments. I sprayed PB Blaster on each plug and waited roughly 10-15 minutes tops (Already pulled the wire off) and then got to it. Only one that scared me was the first one, drivers side plug closest to the front of the vehicle. Was rough coming out, and rough going in, whereas the rest of them (for the most part) was decently smooth.

Fired it up, shes running great, no noticeable difference idling though, was hoping to fix some of that roughness that you can feel from the engine vibrating.

Definitely starts up a little quicker and smoother, if that makes sense. The stock Motorcrafts ALL had a gap of .70 or more, that seems pretty big, is that normal? I know the replacements call for .54, but I ask because these were ALL gapped exactly the same, not some bigger or smaller than the others or anything.