Attn: Rick or other SASers | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Attn: Rick or other SASers

The pic I have won't help you any since all BIIs were TTBs.

As for the Grand Cherokee setup. I don't like them. If you are going to do all that work, you might as well make a kick ass link suspension setup instead of the POS ones TJs and Grand Cherokees use. Plus I don't know if there would be enough lift out of any of their coils. The 8" would be the biggest.
 



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I know the B2s have TTB but i would like to see the set up he has just for reference purposes. Link=money. Which is very scarce around this house! I really don't know that i want something really fance. I just like a regular setup that will be easy to work on and is pretty easy to get parts for. Do you know what he did on the B2 for the drag link, tie rod ends etc? That is what i'm interested in knowing.

Besides the frame up front, what would be the difference between doing a SFA with a TTB or an IFS?

Happy trails!!
 






Do some searches cause alot of questions have already been asked by us newer guys. Keep in mind you will need new wheels and new axles in the rear to beef it up to the front and get the same bolt pattern, if you want to do it right. I would spend some time and go to some shows and look at all sorts of rides to see what people have done, but yes you are going to be out of commission for a while once you start. I plan to do it in a couple years when I have a second daily driver and my other components start to go to crap from running the superlift kit. Good luck
 






HI!! Yes it's me!! the friend of Chola from VENEZUELA, he did a SAS, but I have very low quality pics, and he is almost not aviable for pics, but I will see what I can do for you and for me, I want this mod too!!! It's not my fault not to have the pics, cause I almost never talk with him, but everytime we talk I ask him about the pics...!!! I talked him yesterday, he is selling his external roll cage, rear bumper, front bumper, but I will have to upgrade to a 3" body lift to fit them on my X, so I will see him one of this days and will try to get some pics... HIGH QUALITY!!
 






I am interested in his Ext. Roll Cage, and any infor he can help me with on this Solid Axle Swap.

Here's is some good questions:

-What type of metal/plate should I use on all brakets that will be welded to frame/axle?

-What type of metal do I use for my 4 link? Aluminum? I will be going with heim joints.

-Do the 1Gen have the same steering pump as the second gen? I was thinking about using a 1gen steering box, and the steering linkage, and a drop pitman arm from superlift, and make a steering box brace.

I have an old friend that works at Currie. I'm measuring my front end this weekend and will post it, then post the quote I get back from Currie.

Any comments?
 






Are you still planning on leaving the 8.8 in the rear, and if so what is comparable to as far as Danas go. What tire size can you safely run with the 8.8. I am not going to do anything right now but like taxxman2k it is in the master plan. A separate Explorer fund account has been setup for this.
Gary
 






Originally posted by Xplodor
I am interested in his Ext. Roll Cage, and any info he can help me with on this Solid Axle Swap.

Here's is some good questions:

-What type of metal/plate should I use on all brakets that will be welded to frame/axle?

-What type of metal do I use for my 4 link? Aluminum? I will be going with heim joints.

-Do the 1Gen have the same steering pump as the second gen? I was thinking about using a 1gen steering box, and the steering linkage, and a drop pitman arm from superlift, and make a steering box brace.

I have an old friend that works at Currie. I'm measuring my front end this weekend and will post it, then post the quote I get back from Currie.

Any comments?

My best advice would be to start searching the web for metal use relating to wheeling.

Then, I would join Pirate4x4 BB and post these questions in the General 4x4 Section. The guys there know their stuff.

As for the steering. Go back and read my third post up from here.
 






Dave, if i plan on running a D30 from a jeep then i won't need to buy new wheels since they are the same bolt pattern.

Happy trails!!
 






SAS

Just wanted to see whats going on. I have replaced 3 rack and pinons with the bad Trailmaster design. About 3 bearings each side at 200+ a each. I need to go solid.

Do the math 1000 for the racks and 1500.00 for the bearings. is it worth it!!!!! plus all the work.
 






He used a Bronco steering box, but he doesn't know what year it is, as for the metal, I really don't know, but he goes with springs, so no four points linkage, or heim joints were needed on the suspension work....

As for the steering components, he used the same steering linkage that came with the axle, and he used a jeep wagoneer axle so he swap the rear axle too for the bolt pattern... pitman arm from the bronco steering box...

That's all I can remember for now...

If you're doing this by yourself, I highly recomend going with springs, not with coils, Chola also wanted to go with coils, but the real problem is the linkage, we (95+) don't even have some old reference points and this could make the job a lot harder... but if you have the money and can go with a 4x4 shop as Rick did, go with coils or even coilover shocks, I think that is the best choice, but the expenssive one too... Springs will be a lot cheaper, and a lot easier to work with, but the ride will not be the same, coils are softer than a spring over axle setup or even a spring under axle, as for the flex, I have seen some jeeps and toyos with a lot of flex, and it will be more than better to me, EVEN IF YOU GO WITH SPRINGS UNDER, comparing to this crappy IFS setup we have down there...
 






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