Battery Weak Every 9-10hrs | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Battery Weak Every 9-10hrs

dizzy6984

Active Member
Joined
January 16, 2006
Messages
84
Reaction score
0
City, State
Lake Geneva Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 XLT
Ok, this is how it goes, i drive the truck for awhile, and park it, turn the alarm on, and walk in the house, 8-9hrs later i go to start it, and the battery is to weak to crank it, so i jump it, and let it run for awhile, and 8-9hrs later same thing, even when i leave the alarm off...
No stereo whats so ever in it, no aftermarked lighting, nothing but the alarm and remote start...

Ive taken the + off the battery while it is running, and it keeps running like normal so i know its not the alternator, i dont have a voltage tester, or battery tester, so is there any ways to test the battery?
Im kinda thinking its gotta be the battery, or i have a short somewhere, does anyone know of a way to find a short, i have no idea...

Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





your battery needs replacing and your system should be checked... batteries die over time, but if the alarm is causing enough of an issue, your alternator might not be charging it correctly either....
 






???

The problem still happens even with the alarm off all night, and shouldnt the alternator be good, if it can keep the truck running by its self, when i disconnect the battery, and the truck still stays running, that was the way i was tought??
 






If it is not the battery ar alturnator, then you have a current draw. A common problem is the fuel pump relay. When you turn the engine off the fuel pump will continue to run. If it is no that then you have to find the current draw. You will need to connect an amp meter to the battery and pull fuses one at time until you find the current draw. It is not real hard just takes a little time.

One again test the battery and alturnator first.
 






also.... the car might still run with a bad alternator and no battery if the alt is jsut messed up enough
 






How To

Ok if i do the meter thing how should i do it, what setting on the meter, where to hook the plugs, that stuff, and what reading should i look for?
 






Hook up a DMM and set to Amps. Make sure your leads are in the amp hole and one is in the com (groud) hole. Anyway, disconnect your positive battery cable and hook it up in series (red lead on the battery cable, ground on the postive post of the battery) and see what kind of reading you get. should be less than .5 amps. Also, if you just started the vehicle you will need to allow the car to "power down" -- Fords GEM modules stay powered up for about 45 mins, so if you hook it up right after it runs you'll see a high draw. But you should see it time out within 45 minutes.

On another note; I would get your battery checked. Whens the last time you replaced it? Take it to autozone and have them load test it. Best way to go.

789.jpg


-Drew
 






Thanks for the info, i took it to Autozone and they tested it, the sticker on my batt. is worn out so they couldnt tell how many CCA it was so we guessed, 650, and if it is a 650CCA battery it is shot, but they also said if its not 650CCA, it could give a false reading... So im gonna try the battery, i left the battery in the truck, and disconnected it, its been off for about 6hrs we'll see if its dead in the morning, without being hooked up to anything...
 






It's the battery, almost bet on it.

One thing to note- NEVER pull the battery cables off a newer vehicle with an internal voltage regulator while it is running! You will wipe the alternator out real quick doing that. It was fine to do on the old externally regulated stuff but not with todays electronics. That will cause a severe transient voltage spike to go thru your system and cannot only damage your Alternator but also the PCM and other sensitive devices.

Go get a cheap multi-meter and with your truck off for awhile check the surface charge of your battery, it should be no less than 12.5-12.6VDC if it's less than that it's discharged. Start the truck and put the volt meter right on the back of the alternator where the heavy battery cable connects. You should have at least 13.2 volts there.
 






You should never disconnect a battery cable on a running engine to test an alternator that has an electronic regulator. You can easily blow the regulator causing excessive voltage to destroy all electronics in the vehicle. :roll:
 






I think I already covered that above 300nz.... ;)
 






I just wanted to put it in bold print..... ;)
 






Fixed

It was a battery, i put a new one in and presto havent had a problem since
 






I hope that you cleaned the terminals, and put on a special anti corrosion protector on the terminals, as well a those fuzzy fiber washers. This should help prevent corrosion build up. P.S. What kind of battery did you put in? How many CCA?
 






Featured Content

Back
Top