best/right way to bleed brakes? | Ford Explorer Forums

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best/right way to bleed brakes?

Joined
June 6, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Metro Phoenix, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 E.B. 4x4
Thats the problem with old brake fluid thats cooked, degraded, and holding moisture. It may seem fine during around town trips, but once you start stressing the brakes (like driving in hilly areas/using the brakes on the downside of the hill) the fluid heats up and the moisture in the fluid boils. This makes the brakes go to mush quickly. Once the moisture boils it is similar to suddenly getting air in the lines. Park it for several hours, let it all cool back down, and the brakes sortof come back.

Go get a big bottle of brake fluid, and bleed the hell out of them and i bet it works. Cheap to try anyway.

I did some searching but couldn't find a good set of instructions, so I ask - what's the best/right way to thoroughly bleed my brakes without screwing it up or making it more difficult or time consuming than necessary?

Thanks again for the assistance.
 



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I know that you start furthest away from the master cylinder, like RR, LR, RF, then LF, you just loosen the bleeder screw, and hit the brakes, then when the fluids coming out, tighten it back up....get a few big bottles of brake fluid though, if you want to fully clear out the system, after reading that quote you just posted, I kind of noticed when I go on long trips my brakes feel...loose kind of, so I might be doing this in the next few days lol.

Just have someone with you, so they can hit the brakes, while you loosen/tighten the bolt.
 












I found this, would you say it's right?

The best way to manually bleed the system without special tools, like a vacuum bleeder, is to take the cap or cover off the master cylinder so you can keep constant watch on the level and with the engine off, pump the brakes until you start getting firmness to the pedal and then while keeping a constant pressure on the brake pedal, open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder farthest away from the master cylinder. The brake pedal will start to sink to the floor at this point, just before it hits bottom, close the bleeder and pump the brakes up again. Repeat this sequence until no more air bubbles appear at this wheel cylinder bleeder valve. It will be easier to see the bubbles if you put a length of clear flexible tubing over the tip of the bleeder valve. Close the bleeder snugly (not too tight or you will strip the threads) and move to the next wheel cylinder. Repeat this sequence for all 4 wheels. Keep a close eye on the level in the master cylinder at all times or you will introduce more air into the system.
 






Idk about fancy vaccum bleeders, but I know for a fact the link I sent you is exactly the way I learned to do it, and its works for me. :dunno:
 






Keep in mind that some vehicles with ABS have different bleeding procedures than the normal RR,LR,RF,LF process. Some need to be bled at the ABS valve and sometimes with special tools. It's best to read a good tech manual for the specific vehicle before starting.
 






Use a small clear container like a small water bottle. Put some brake fluid in it. Run a clear hose from the bleader to into the bottle and fluid. Just have someone pump them till no bubbles comes out. Keep the resevoir topped off.
 






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