Brake Fluid Flush (Unsatisfying Outcome)

[nvexplorer]

I recently completed a brake fluid flush on my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT; unfortunately, the process was not as satisfying as I’d hoped for…

It appears that the brake fluid reservoir on this model year of Explorer is chambered, and I was only able to remove approximately 1/3 of the old fluid before adding and pumping new fluid through each line/caliper. I used the smallest, most flexible hose I could find, but no matter how I probed the reservoir, I could not seem to get to the lower 2/3rds of the old fluid.

So after sucking out as much of the old fluid as I could and pouring in the new brake fluid as slowly as I could, the old fluid left in the reservoir continued to mix with the new throughout the process. I was planning to only use 32oz total of Morotcraft PM20 fluid for the flush and refill, but ended up using 64oz trying to get clean output at the caliper bleed screws.

The end result is definitely clearer than the original old fluid, but no where near as clean as past jobs that I’ve done where I could evacuate all of the old fluid from the reservoir. My reservoir went from looking like Coke, to now weaker Coke..... Not satisfied!

Any tips for me when I do this again in two years? Thanks everyone.

 

[Odrapnew]

I can't comment because I got lazy and had the dealer do mine last fall.
I never bring it in for general maintenance, but it was in for warranty work, so I had them do it.

You could bleed the brakes a bit to get reservoir lower and then add the clean fluid.
Risk is that you bleed too much and introduce air.

 

[texsn95]

I wouldn't be too concerned about what the fluid in the reservoir looks like, as long as you saw the new fluid bleed out of each bleed port.

 

[ncsuengineer256]

I recently completed a brake fluid flush on my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT; unfortunately, the process was not as satisfying as I’d hoped for…

It appears that the brake fluid reservoir on this model year of Explorer is chambered, and I was only able to remove approximately 1/3 of the old fluid before adding and pumping new fluid through each line/caliper. I used the smallest, most flexible hose I could find, but no matter how I probed the reservoir, I could not seem to get to the lower 2/3rds of the old fluid.

So after sucking out as much of the old fluid as I could and pouring in the new brake fluid as slowly as I could, the old fluid left in the reservoir continued to mix with the new throughout the process. I was planning to only use 32oz total of Morotcraft PM20 fluid for the flush and refill, but ended up using 64oz trying to get clean output at the caliper bleed screws.

The end result is definitely clearer than the original old fluid, but no where near as clean as past jobs that I’ve done where I could evacuate all of the old fluid from the reservoir. My reservoir went from looking like Coke, to now weaker Coke..... Not satisfied!

Any tips for me when I do this again in two years? Thanks everyone.

I use this to flush the brake fluid on my vehicles.

Domestic Power Bleeder Kits

Motive Products Power Bleeder Kits for Domestic Vehicles

www.motiveproducts.com

Makes it possible to be a one man job.

 

[swshawaii]

Most of the contaminants are trapped in the caliper reservoir behind the bleed screws. Compress the pistons all the way to get rid of most of it. Use a small glass jar and you will be amazed what comes out.

 

[nvexplorer]

I can't comment because I got lazy and had the dealer do mine last fall.
I never bring it in for general maintenance, but it was in for warranty work, so I had them do it.

You could bleed the brakes a bit to get reservoir lower and then add the clean fluid.
Risk is that you bleed too much and introduce air.

I was too chicken to do that once I discovered the chambered reservoir. I did not want to risk the system gulping any air...

 

[nvexplorer]

Most of the contaminants are trapped in the caliper reservoir behind the bleed screws. Compress the pistons all the way to get rid of most of it. Use a small glass jar and you will be amazed what comes out.

My pads have a little life left in them, but when I replace them, I do plan to have the bleed screws open when I compress the pistons. Good to know that will flush more debris out. Thanks.

 

[swshawaii]

Here's a pic of my front caliper bore(s). I flush every two years. Nasty stuff.

 

[MattMPA]

Bleeding/fushing the brakes is an item on my to-do list.

I have a vacuum bleeder, but have yet to use it on a vehicle with ABS. Is the process the same as with older vehicles? Meaning, keep the master cylinder topped off, but simply open each bleeder and let the tool work?

I guess an easier way to ask would be...does the ABS unit allow a simple bleed...or does it need to the ABS unit need to be activated in some way?

 

[Odrapnew]

Bleeding/fushing the brakes is an item on my to-do list.

I have a vacuum bleeder, but have yet to use it on a vehicle with ABS. Is the process the same as with older vehicles? Meaning, keep the master cylinder topped off, but simply open each bleeder and let the tool work?

I guess an easier way to ask would be...does the ABS unit allow a simple bleed...or does it need to the ABS unit need to be activated in some way?

I believe the ABS module needs to be cycled to get all the old fluid flushed, but I'm sure just bleeding like normal at least gets some of the fluid flushed through/out of the ABS module.