Brake help:

[PSfan]

Ok, here' is the story, Last week I lost almost all my brake peddle and discovered I was losing my brake fluid at my driver side drum. So now I am in the process of changing brake cylinders and shoes on the rear of my truck (was hoping to change the front pads today too, but looking like I won't have the time...)

Problem I've run into is, my brake line the connects from the cylinders to that square block with the rubber hose is seized right up, and have been trying for hours to get it loose. No biggy at the cylinder because I decided to cut my losses (pun not intended) and just replace the line... but now I can't unscrew the bolt at the box thingy. So is there any trick to it? I know the garage I've taken my vehicles to from time to time would mention something being seized on so tight they needed to "torch" it loose, unfortunately I don't have a torch, and the liquid wrench I am using is flamable...

Also so I can start bending my new line sooner, which side should the longer "bolt" thingy be at?

Thanks
Brendan

 

[walterd140]

That 'box thingy' is the flex line connector. You could spray it with some penatrating oil. At the very worse you may want to get a new one & run a new line to the passenger side as well. My brake experience tells me the other line is on it's way out as well.

As far as running the new line to the 4 way valve, I went on the outside rail so I would not have to drop the gas tank. Theres a hole right after the tank you can get back into the frame through to connect to the 4 way.

 

[gsmaclean]

That 'box thingy' is the flex line connector. You could spray it with some penatrating oil. At the very worse you may want to get a new one & run a new line to the passenger side as well. My brake experience tells me the other line is on it's way out as well.

As far as running the new line to the 4 way valve, I went on the outside rail so I would not have to drop the gas tank. Theres a hole right after the tank you can get back into the frame through to connect to the 4 way.

I just replaced that exact same line this weekend on my 94, and I did the exact same thing - I ran a line from the hard point on the frame where the rubber hose starts, out the frame right near the bump stop, along the outside of the frame rail, through that hole near the tank, then routed it along inside the frame rail up to the ABS unit. I did it in two pieces - one piece that I pre-bent from the ABS unit, in and around the engine bay down to just in front of the fuel filter, then the other piece from the rear joint up to the fuel filter, then I put a union there. Works great!

Incidentally, get some PB Blaster to loosen the line nuts. Soak it a few times over a day or so, then give it another try.

 

[PSfan]

Thanks for the responses, how tuff is the flex line connector? not sure when I'll be able to get to working on my truck again, but was thinking worse case I could probably cut the line to the other wheel as well, unbolt it from the dif case, and then maybe hold it in a vice or something (I also think some or most of my problem is that they way it mounts to the diff case allows for way to much bending at the mount and I can't get any good leverage...)

I would have liked to have tried that PB blaster, been reading some good things about it online, but my local autostore doesn't stock it, and the person I sent to check was recommended the same liquid wrench that hasn't been working for me up to now, but now I got a newer can

BTW: what is the possible harm in using a butane torch to loosen my "bolts" I've been told by a second local garage that they pretty much use the torch on all their brake jobs, but I've also read online that I should on brake and fuel lines...

Thanks Again
Brendan

 

[walterd140]

Not sure about the torch. I get nervous with fire & liquids. But the idea is to heat the block to expand it while the threads from the tube stay colder & small.

 

[Crunchy]

Wow, its a brake line week ain't it?

I did my drums last weekend too cause of leakage in the cylinders. I had to replace the lines at 9pm with a mini-maglite in my mouth for 2 hours, wasn't fun.

 

[gsmaclean]

Thanks for the responses, how tuff is the flex line connector? not sure when I'll be able to get to working on my truck again, but was thinking worse case I could probably cut the line to the other wheel as well, unbolt it from the dif case, and then maybe hold it in a vice or something (I also think some or most of my problem is that they way it mounts to the diff case allows for way to much bending at the mount and I can't get any good leverage...)

I would have liked to have tried that PB blaster, been reading some good things about it online, but my local autostore doesn't stock it, and the person I sent to check was recommended the same liquid wrench that hasn't been working for me up to now, but now I got a newer can

BTW: what is the possible harm in using a butane torch to loosen my "bolts" I've been told by a second local garage that they pretty much use the torch on all their brake jobs, but I've also read online that I should on brake and fuel lines...

Thanks Again
Brendan

I'm told that Canadian Tire stocks PB Blaster, so it should be available in Cochrane.

If you use a torch (propane would be better than butane), heat the block, not the line nut. The idea is to get the block (the "T" junction) to expand from the heat, not the nut. You can also try heating the block, then put an ice cube on the nut immediately before trying to get it to move. I had to do this when I was replacing my radius arm bushings, the nuts were seized solid - without the torch, I wouldn't have gotten them loose.

I would not use a torch on fuel lines, whoever told you that has a death wish.

 

[PSfan]

Sorry, I shoulda pre-read my last post before posting, I had read not to use heat on a the brake and fuel lines, the fact that it was mentioned with the fuel lines suggested an equal amount of danger involved, or at least how I took it

unfortunately Cochrane's little canadian tire doesn't carry PB Blaster (they do have all kinds of liquid wrench...) The online stock status says that the Timmins store (little over 1 hour drive) has it, but not sure when I'll get a chance to get there. I picked up something today called Justice Bros. 80 gave em a squirt tonight, but since work dictates its dark when I leave, and dark when I get home at night, I might not be able to put a real effort to finishing my brake job till the weekend. But I got to borrow a nice 01 f150 4x4 sport for the short term

And thanks for the advice on heating the block, I was likely to heat up the bolt had I attempted this weekend.

Brendan

 

[DeRocha]

I'm in the process of replacing my rear brake line for the 2nd time. The last time was in '04 and it appears my problem is due to off-roading in mud. The mud collects in the frame area along the fuel tank causing the hardline to rust out prematurely. Since I take my Explorer off-road running the hardline outside of the frame rail was not an option. As such I have dropped the fuel tank and am in the process of replacing the hardline from the T-case back.

If you live in the rust belt you will often discover line itself rust out and physically bonds to the fitting. As such trying to loosen the fittings causes the line to move as well. PB Blaster can help, but more likely the fittings will need to be replaced.