If you have a volt meter (if not, cheap ones that just light a 12volt bulb are dirt cheap), check to see if you have 12v to ground on one side of brake switch, then press brake (or switch) and make sure you have 12v on other side. If yes, proceed. Wrap some electrical tape around most of positive meter probe (except very end). Remove one of the bulbs, put postive lead, carefully, on center contact where bulb was (there are probably 2, so figure out which one is for brake by finding out which one has 12v with lights on, that is for running lights), and put negative probe to good ground. Then have someone push brake, if there is 12v now, switch and wiring is good; if no 12v, you have an open wire between switch and rear of vehicle. Trace it out. If you do have 12v, now place negative meter probe on outer metal casing where bulb was (be EXTREMELY careful, 1 wrong move and there goes your fuse), and have someone push brake, you should have 12v, and if this is the case, there is no reason bulb shouldn't light. If no 12v between center contact and outer casing, trace out the ground wire to make sure it has good, clean connection to ground.
WOW! I could have showed you this in 30 seconds, but writing it out is like writing the Bible!
When you take out the bulb, is everything nice and copper? Corrosion can easily screw up your day.
Tell me what you find.
Robb