Check Engine/no power/can't go uphill or faster than 35 mph

[k.k.a.0719]

Hi, I bought a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2WD with 100,000 miles about a year and a half ago. I have had no issues with it so far other than regular maintenance. It is also my first automatic transmission vehicle. I noticed my car has been having some black smoke come out of the exhaust sometimes early in the morning, but then it went away. This weekend I went for a drive and suddenly on the highway, the car started slowing and slowing to a speed that was about 20 miles per hour. I couldn't keep up with traffic and had to put my hazard lights on. I thought about getting it towed but since I don't have AAA and am kind of broke, I just tried to keep going. I made it all the way home making stops along the way, but I was going way slower than traffic and uphill it was going about 10 mph. Then the check engine light came on. My friend then checked out the fluids and said I had no transmission fluid, so he filled that up. Its better now, but still will not go more than about 40 mph and when I come to a stop and then try to take off again it takes a lot of time to get up to moving with traffic. I cannot go on the freeway. Does anyone know if this is the transmission or could it be catalytic converter? It is not leaking and there is no smoke. Ideas are appreciated. Thank you!

 

[FR-425]

Is the engine reving really high, but the truck is moving slow?

 

[k.k.a.0719]

No the engine isn't running high, its running low actually. I took it to get the free diagnostic test and they advised the code is "cylinder 3 misfire". Is it just spark plugs? Its still running to and from work but I look like the worst driver on the road. Not going on the freeway, just local streets. The check engine light is no longer illuminated. Sounds like its not the transmission, thank goodness.

 

[swshawaii]

If it's throwing a p0303 trouble code change the plugs. Wouldn't be surprised if they're original. For proven results use OEM Motorcraft SP500 Finewire, Autolite APP103 Double Platinum, or XP103 Iridium replacements. Gap at .054, use a thin coat of copper or nickel anti seize on the threads and use dielectric grease on both boot ends. At that mileage spark plug wire replacement is a good idea. Best way of accessing #3 is removing the tire and R&R from below. This may not solve your misfire code, but chances are the center electrode gaps are VERY wide if they're original. Good for another 70-100k. GL

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/SparkPlugs/SparkPlugsProject.pdf

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1385344,parttype,7212
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1385344,parttype,7224

 

[k.k.a.0719]

ok thank you for your advice. Hopefully this fixes it.

 

[1Aauto]

Welcome to the site.

Tony

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome aboard!!

I have moved your thread into the appropriate sub forum to get better exposure.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!

 

[my98nnj]

I say the cat failed. One cylinder misfire won't bring the truck to a crawl.

 

[k.k.a.0719]

Ok, so ...... I took it in to get a tune up today to have the spark plugs and wires replaced, and the shop just called me and said its actually the fuel pump. Does this sound right? Also, they said it was $1000 to fix. I don't have $1000, so I'm picking my car up and taking it home. What's the avg rate for fixing a fuel pump at a shop? What's the average price of the part itself? Is it difficult to replace? Also, would fuel pump really cause the code of "cylinder 3 misfire"? I don't want to spend the money to get something fixed and find out it's something else. Thank you.

 

[k.k.a.0719]

I did some research and found a local shop where if I purchase the fuel pump myself, they will install it for $180. That's much more tolerable sounding. Thing is, is it really the fuel pump? I think I'll start with spark plugs.

 

[2000StreetRod]

maintaining old vehicles

A typical 10 year old or more Ford will have numerous failures and can be expensive to maintain if a mechanic must be payed for diagnostic and repair work. Most of us maintain our own vehicles but have test equipment and tools to do so. If you're interested in doing your own work these threads may help:
Engine misfire procedure
Ford Explorer Ranger Fuel pressure test procedure
Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport

 

[Iqinsanity]

Don't rule out a clogged fuel filter. I know many scam backyard mechanics more than willing to charge people for fuel pumps (only sometimes actually changing them) when it's just a 10 year old filter that someone never changed. Anyone wanting a grand for a $200 fuel pump and labor to change sounds just like the scammers I knew.

Also maybe fuel pressure regulator.

But if the trans was empty and filling made a difference the trans could be it.

Edit: it puffs black smoke? Does that mean it's running rich? If so could it be a stuck open injector? Loss of power from loss of fuel pressure at the rail.

So many possibilities

 

[jremington59]

Spend twenty dollars and get a fuel pressure tester. That will tell you what the pressure is.

 

[k.k.a.0719]

Thanks for the advice. I do think that shop is scamming, but they actually have great reviews online. The only negative reviews are regarding their prices. I had them try to itemize the $1000 and they weren't really able to when I was standing in front of them. Their itemized list included $300 for labor, $33 for fuel filter and $580 for the fuel pump. That's a really expensive fuel pump compared to what I've seen online.

In response to some questions above: I think the transmission fluid being added was a coincidence in what I thought was an improvement. I've ruled out transmission.

Black smoke: that only happened 2 mornings several weeks ago before it was having this problem of having no power, but I have not seen it again since.

Additional info: it starts right up every time. It gets slower and slower the farther I drive it. It's definitely sputtering a long and when I am at a stop, it shakes. It doesn't appear to like idling. It's moving along best at a slow coast about 20 mph. If I have to come to a stop sign, it stops the momentum and depending on how far I drove it, it may take a minute or two to get back up to 20-30 mph.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Although the fuel pressure tester is optimal, a simple manual tire pressure guage will test the fuel pressure just fine. If you dont have one already, pick up a cheapy dial guage for $1 at the checkout of any parts store. There is a fuel pressure testing port located under the hood near the battery tray. Usually has a green cap. With the truck sitting, not running take a test reading. Might have some pressure if driven recently, otherwise might be zero. Next turn the key to on once but dont start. The fuel pump will turn on for 2-3 seconds to prime the system. Check the pressure again. If the pump is working properly the pressure should be at 60+ pounds of pressure, although if it a little worn may be in the 40's. If low, try priming a couple extra time to see if the pressure comes up to spec. If it does, go ahead and start. Let it run a little at idle, then check it again. Should be showing in the 60's, but will run ok mid-40's+ with some loss of power. Anything below 45 or so, either have a plugged fuel filter or weak pump. 30's or less, very likely the pump.

The missfire is not fuel pressure related. Black smoke is an indication of unburned fuel. You should still check the spark plug and wire and confirm spark from the ignition coil.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

$580 fuel pump would be a complete motorcraft assembly with a good markup. Normally only the pump itself needs to be changed. They range from $20 online to $150 in a parts store, complete assemblies are more. FYI: the $20 ones have worked with no issues in the dozen or so I have installed over the past few years. Expect a couple hours labor to install.

 

[k.k.a.0719]

Thank you! I'll keep updating.

 

[k.k.a.0719]

I got a third diagnostic. This guy tested the fuel pump- said it was fine. Spark plugs are good too and fuel filter. He said its the catalytic converter, it will be $1650 to fix. I need it to be California certified.