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Complex Performance Problem HELP PLEASE

Jason_25

Elite Explorer<br>ECX Member
Joined
November 26, 2000
Messages
5,324
Reaction score
6
City, State
New Bern, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'95 Explorer "Expedition"
This is pretty much the only thing that annoys me about my explorer and I would appreciate anyone's help that may have an idea about this.
A little history: When I bought the truck a year and a half ago, sometimes it would run poorly and sometimes it would have decent performance. It always idled roughly unless it was a cold start. Also, sometimes after a cold start, when I put the truck in gear and started to drive, the RPM's would drop to around 300 and the battery light would come on signaling there wasn't enough power to charge the battery. However, it never stalled on me. I grenaded the engine this summer by hydrolocking and got another one with 29k miles on it. Seems to run ok except for almost the same exact problems but much worse.
start (on level ground)
I beleive the problem to be in the fuel system somewhere because:
1.Sometimes takes more than a second to start (about every 10 tries or so and on level ground)
2.I smell gasoline vapor around the fuel pump after driving the truck for a while, turning it off, and getting under there and smelling
3.The strangest thing, after I fill up and a few minutes after, the truck returns to acceptable performance but quickly bogs down again
Can someone please help me get to the root of this?

Thanks alot,
Jason
 



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The battery light probably just came on because the engine was idling so low that it wasn't turning the alternator fast enough. The light goes off and stays off when the engine is running at normal RPM's doesn't it?

Since you have changed engines and still have the same problems, that obviously eliminates something in the engine as being the problem. Did the new engine come with all new sensors connected to it?

Have you ever changed anything in the fuel system? Start with the fuel filter and work from there.

Let me know.
 






Yeah fuel filter was changed about 10 k miles ago. Thankfully, I beleive I have found the solution. A vacuum line going to the FPR got melted because it was improperly routed. I rerouted it just a couple hours ago and plugged it back in and it may have fixed the problem. I just drove it about an hour ago and it pulled very hard so maybe that was the fix.

I sure hope so.
 






Ok i cleaned my K&N today. That helped also. But still, it likes to idle very low when I come to a stop, (mostly at stoplights) sometimes. The idle gets so low that the engine starts to shake. Can anyone help out on this?
 












Thanks for the suggestion. I have since fixing the hose, but not since cleaning the filter. I'll post back once I have done so.
 






Wow

Well I hydrolocked my engine also.....I got a remanufactured from Jasper..... Same stuff is happening to mine except mine is actually stalling out..... I have a warrenty on mine so I took it back to the place where they put my engine in..... I will have to ask them about resetting my computer....I will be picking it up Weds or Thurs....so I will update you on anything that they came up with..

Karol

PS while waiting at a red light my idle would drop down below 1000rpms and stay running....then when I release the brake and go to accelerate....it would stall... one time it stalled out in a middle of an intersection.... this started to happen after my initial 3,000 mile new engine break in period.....
 






Yes same thing happened to me before I took it to the dealership. When the engine was installed and I got the truck back, it ran worse than Geo towing a 5000 lb. boat. It felt like it had about 75 HP and it stalled out constantly. It turned out that the rednecks that installed it were not used to installing modern engines (imagine that), and they didn't hook everything up right. It runs acceptable now but not like it should. Please keep me updated on your situation.
 






Well

I could hardly call the guys that installed mine rednecks... they are certified by Jasper to install Jasper engines.... they are professional in every way...... but like you said.....I still think that they are not as tuned to the whole electronics part of our Ex's

Karol
 






Well computer is reset now. A little better performance but here are the current issues still going on:
1.Low idle when coming to stop
2.Rough idle always
3.Check engine light coming on and off
 






Have you ever checked the computer codes? You can do it yourself without a code reader. All you need is a test light. Let me know if you want to know how to do it.
 






Yes I know how to check the codes per the Haynes manual but it seems that everytime I do it I get the codes mixed up. I can't differentiate between one code and the other. Maybe I'm just mentally challenged or something......I'm searching on Ebay right now for a real code reader.
 






I've found it much easier if you have someone to help you read the codes. One person at the battery with the test light and another inside reading the check engine light. Both people take a pen and paper and write down the numbers as they show up. Don't stop to look at the paper, just leave skip large spaces for the long pauses. Compare codes and see if you both got the same thing. If not, try again.
If you haven't gotten them before the 19th I'll help you check them when we meet for GWNF if you want. Just bring a piece of wire and a test light.
 






Sorry it took me so long

This is what was wrong with mine

Starter motor cost.....$40 labor....$98

Starter relay cost....$15 labor....$20

Idle control motor cost....$60 labor....$20


now I'm not saying that is what is wrong with yours.... it's just that we basically had alot in common...I hydolocked and seized my engine..(alot of my components were soaked also)... and we both replaced the engines..... we had the same symptoms afterward... this is what they said they needed to replace before but wanted to take a wait and see attitude ...... if my problem persists....they have no other choice but look into a tranny problem....

Karol
 






Thanks for the info Karol, I also had my idle air control motor replaced. And it looks like I may need a new starter . I'm like you, also, in that once my codes are run and nothing can be done from there, I will also have to turn to the tranny.
 






Ok I finally ran my CEL codes. The computer flashed really fast, then produced:
111
111
172
172

So i"m guessing it's 172:D
Heated oxygen sensor indicated lean condition, right side

Ok guys. Diagnose away.
 






So one or more cylinders on the right side are either not getting enough fuel (most likely) or are getting to much air.

First off for the easy stuff, make sure your intake manifold bolts are tightened to the correct torque. Check for cracks or a bad looking gasket. Also try running a couple bottles of injector cleaner in your next tank of gas, maybe the next two tanks. After that reset your computer and see if it comes back.

If those don't work you'll probably need to find out some way to test and see if the injectors are working properly and the O2 sensor itself also. Who knows, the sensor could be going bad and having the computer send too much fuel to try to compensate for the lean condition that doesn't really exist. But try the intake bolts and cleaner first.
 






Thanks for the advice John. I will check the torque on the bolts tonight and I will also check to see if that sensor is old. I know the dealer replaced one of them, maybe it was the other one.
 






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