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corrosion inhibitors without anti-freeze

field

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November 22, 2011
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City, State
California
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 SOHC 2WD EXPLORER
It never freezes here. Any body know what corrosion inhibitors could be used to replace anti-freeze?
 



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Antifreeze/Coolant needs to be in your cars cooling system. Antifreeze, as its referred to, increases the boiling point of water. If you use water, it will boil over.

Just use the premix coolant.
 






^+1
 






Correct. Coolant it's also used to improve the boiling point, and anti-corrosion, not only anti-freezing.
BTW, water from faucet has calcium and will damage the engine. When I hear people saying that they have a "blown gasket" I always ask - did you use tap water in it?
90% of the time is yes. And sometimes they tell me they "switched back" to coolant, but... they don't know that the damage is irreversible. Calcium is deposited already in their engine block and will prevent the proper cooling.
Using an acid (vinegar, calgone) to "eat" the calcium away will damage other things inside.
 






I think what field is asking is if you can get a corrosion inhibiting coolant without an anti freeze component.

I don't think so, I'm in Australia an I've never seen one.
 






Lots of race tracks will not let you run with "anti freeze", there's a few different products out there but I've always used Water Wetter.
 






I tried that... No improvement in cooling temperature.
 






Sorry I did not mention that I seldom take any long or grueling trips. The temp gauge always centers after a few minutes of driving and never deviates from there. I never come close to a boil over. The ambient temperature is always between 40F and 85F here when I drive. I always use deionized water.

Ethylene glycol is a poison and I'd rather not deal with it's disposal. The SOHC came with green anti-freeze. I believe that means is contains silicates and/or phosphates.
So now, does anyone know exactly what anti-corrosion substances are in green anti-freeze. The manual calls for anti-freeze meeting ESE-M97B44-A requirements.
 


















Google a product called "NowKool" Non Toxic and Bio Degradable but very expensive.

We use it on the industrial side all the time.

I have also seen this: http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=24058

Just don't get it on you. It makes you itch real bad, don't ask me how
I know this....

Ethylene Glycol is a big time "No No" in some places because its toxic.
 












FYI, There is a brand of anti-freeze that is non-poisonous. I know O'Reilly's sold it. It came in a white container. If your worried about harming the planet, just use that.
 






That's just less-poisonous.
The idea is that antifreeze should last at least 45k miles in the car and then disposed to be recycled.
 






Name an automotive fluid that *isn't* poisonous. Maybe if you use water as a wiper fluid...oh but it turns out that people who use water as a wiper fluid are at a higher risk of getting Legionnaire's Disease.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windshield_washer_fluid
 






I'm glad I'm not in the Legion.

That makes me immune??
 






Here is another "authority".

http://www.aftermarketsuppliers.org/Councils/Filter-Manufacturers-Council/TSBs-2/English/05-2R1.pdf

I'm going with:

BAR’S LEAKS TECHNICAL BULLETIN
Tech Bulletin #: TB-1311-3 Page 1 of 1
Date 1st Issued: June 6, 2006 Date Revised: July 22, 2013
ISO 9001 CERTIFIED Bar’s Leaks Cooling System
Water Pump Lube with Anti-Rust
Antifreeze alone is not enough to protect all of the metal, plastic and
rubber parts of the cooling system. Bar's Leaks Cooling System
Water Pump Lube with Anti-Rust protects aluminum, copper, iron and
all other parts of the cooling system to help prevent the formation of
rust and corrosion. The water soluble oil formula lubricates the
thermostat and the water pump seal. Compatible with ALL brands of
antifreeze including conventional green or blue (Silicate-based) and
extended life red/orange or yellow (OAT/HOAT) coolant. A must use if running only water in the cooling system, especially racing
applications.
 OEM quality meets leading car and truck manufacturer
requirements.
 For best results install once every 15,000 miles.

If anyone knows why this isn't a good substitute for anti-freeze, let him speak now or forever hold his peace? Please.
 






Why mess with a couple hundred years of success???

All automotive fluids, including A/F, are cheap when you look at how much they "do."

Go to Walmart, buy 100% strength A/F for around $13 a gallon, cut it with Distilled Water 50/50 to make 2 gallons of A/F (that's about $7 A Gallon if you add in the cost of a 1 Gallon Jug of Distilled Water), and pour it into the radiator.

Every 2 to 3 years drain it out, bring it to the local hazardous waste center, and replace it with a new 50/50 mixture.
 






True if all problems are avoided

That would be true if the cooling system were leak proof.
But most of my troubles have been leaks, hoses, valves, water pump, radiator, and especially thermostat housing. So the heater and head gaskets may be next. Draining all that anti-freeze is frustrating.

I drove my last Ford for 45 years and finally had to give it up because of cooling problems. It had 5 water pumps, 2 heaters, 2 radiator repairs and 2 radiators. Any deficit must be fixed immediately or the contagion will spread.
 



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If all your problems are cooling system related, don't you now think some proper coolant & distilled water would have prevented 90% of those problems? You say you don't take trips or run the hammer lane, or change climates, but wouldn't you like to be able to? The coolant is the true lifeblood of any vehicle. If you can't realize that, no one here can help you any further.
 






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