cpuople question about my demonic 98 Xploda...please help! thanks! | Ford Explorer Forums

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cpuople question about my demonic 98 Xploda...please help! thanks!

98XLTLMEdition

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May 20, 2004
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City, State
Sarasota Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Exploer XLT LM OHVV6
ok so i have had the car for six months and recently like this week a few things are happening and i dont know WTF is going on....
1.The Rear third brake light seems to stay on after i turned off the car it flashes like 30000 times in a minute and i only get it to stop if i open the hatch and throw it down really hard????? none of the other lights are on it does it after the car is off and the lights are off.....no other lights do it just the 3rd with the LED's

2.The Locks are speeed sensitive and use to lock when i shifted out of park...now they lock at like 48-54 mph and i dont get why...is my car possesed or does any one know how to get it back to locking at shifting out of park?

3. To question number to can iprogram the car to unlock when shifting into park?

4.My rear windows are slower than the front ones by mmm at least 2 seconds is this mean my motors are dying .......when i put all the windows up at the same time the back ones go even slower but when i let off the front they speed up????

5.my car seems to idle rought or atleast its uneven it goes to 1 grand idle most of the time but some times its at 700.

6.My car feels slower than usual i had 92 in it this tank to clean the FI in the car could this have caused it?

7.Is there any way to make the car run cooler.....i live in florida and it never gets cold enoght for the car to need to be warm...it runs in the dead center of the temp gauge with the air on but i wanna cool the engine more its rought on stuff in fl(the sun that is)

8.(last one) can i just put in water into my collant thing as a flush???? it florida and alot of people told me anti freeze isnt as good at removing heat from the engine as water and that the AF is only intended for not freezing which sence its florida it never does???? can i do all water????



Thanks a bunch people! Nick
 



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1) sounds like a short in the wiring going to the lamp through the hatch
3) I don't think so, but the doors should still open from the inside even when locked
6) higher octane fuel doesn't inherently contain any more additives. To clean the fuel system I recommend chevron techron fuel system cleaner. yes that gas could have affected the engine and computer. run some techron and return to 87.
7) if the temp gauge is steady and consistent don't worry about it.
8) run 50/50 antifreeze and water.
 






2) The doors will automatically lock after your reach speeds of 20mph (I think) and THEN apply the brakes. So if you don't tap the brakes until you're going 70mph, then it will lock at 70. It could lock as low as 20, or 25 or whatever the low speed is. :D
 






3 - you can buy whats called a "park kill module" that the police use to cut their sirens when they put the car in park(chaos at a crime scene + siren = not good) im sure you can buy one of these, and if youre proficient with wiring, im sure you can wire it to unlock your doors, but they will unlock from the inside by just opening them, so its kinda pointless to do this, but to each his own i guess.

4 - the electric window motors are very high wattage. so you will notice that when you try to do 2 or more windows at the same time, the speed will drop. this is caused by the motors trying to draw more current out of the same wire, so the internal resistence of the wire will limit the current flow, and slow down all of the windows. the rears will be slower because they are in the rear, so there is more wire leading to them, and as a result, there is more internal resistence(internal resistence is measured as ohms/foot) there is a THEORETICAL solution if this bothers you(only in theory, should work, but no guarentee) just run thicker (heavier gauge) wires to the window motors. if your charging/battery system can handle the current, then all the windows SHOULD operate at the same speed. i am not sure of the design of the motors, so this may/may not work. but the speed slowing as more windows are in use at a time is normal and not a big deal.
 






5 - to smooth out idle and other engine problems, run a can of seafoam through the engine. you can get it at napa for like $6 and depending on the mileage(higher mileages will see a more dramatic increase in performance) it will work wonders. ask anyone on this board and it is a HIGHLY recommended product.
 






8 - DO NOT run straight water! Antifreeze is just called that because it is more critical as an antifreeze, but it also raises the boiling point of water so that your cooling system can stay liquified(gas in a cooling system=bad bad bad - gases cant efficiently transfer their heat to the outside and are harder to move around unlike liquids) if it has never been done, you should buy a flushing kit and run some flushing chemical through the system to clean it out(do NOT follow my lead and leave the chemical in there - search for my post entitled "cracked heads?" for an explaniation) once you flush the system, it should be refilled, as Alec noted, with 50/50 antifreeze/water
 






2. I think you can turn the autolock feature off entirely. I hate it and would never have it in a car.

4. The window tracks and motors aren't exactly the same front and rear. This would give a different speed of the window. It may also be a safety feature to avoid children from injuring themselves in the window. They go slower when you roll up all 4 because there is only so much power available.

5. Does you car ever make a humming/buzzing sound when you let off the gas or coast? If so you need a new IAC, which wil also smooth out the idle.

7. Most engines run better at a higher temp, IE 185 as opposed to 165. As long as it doesn't get to the overheating point, it is good.
 






Mbrooks420 said:
2. I think you can turn the autolock feature off entirely. I hate it and would never have it in a car.

4. The window tracks and motors aren't exactly the same front and rear. This would give a different speed of the window. It may also be a safety feature to avoid children from injuring themselves in the window. They go slower when you roll up all 4 because there is only so much power available.

5. Does you car ever make a humming/buzzing sound when you let off the gas or coast? If so you need a new IAC, which wil also smooth out the idle.

7. Most engines run better at a higher temp, IE 185 as opposed to 165. As long as it doesn't get to the overheating point, it is good.
My car made a really wqierd noise for along time up until a month ago.....is was made when i accelarted and whined with the rpms of the car...if i step on it to get it to downshift it would go a way it was an awfull noise but it came from the front part of the engine compartment below the intake down there somewhere something made noise and i havent a clue...i origanlly thought it was something in the rear cuz its load as helll it overpowerd the radio some time but it has stopper....my idle was funky then to....thansk for the help so far......
 






I 'd say you need an IAC. It seems to come from the airbox. It is under $50 and takes 2 minutes to replace. Very common for these to go.
 






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