Cracked lower manifold after ECT sensor install...

[1998Exp]

Again, look at photos of the upper manifold on eBay to see where the bolts are (two are hidden under the 5.0L plaque).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT-40-Upper-Intake-Manifold-Mustang-GT-Cobra-87-93-With-EGR-Ford-Explorer/332030429430?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=39107&meid=25d3761d91e5435bae0a98e4d1a142ad&pid=100005&rk=5&rkt=6&sd=302140391116

The upper will pull off easily, the lower will probably need to be pried off as the gaskets will be pretty well stuck. I'm not aware of any write-ups, but you'd probably be able to find a you tube video on the subject (personally I can't stand the slow, shaky videos and blabber on most you tube videos). The videos on 1AAuto are much more professional. They may have one for your engine on intake r&r (link below).

https://www.1aauto.com/videos

Basically the way I go about this type of repair is to just remove everything that's in my way until the part comes off. The most important thing is to make sure you've removed all the bolts.

If you're a bolt breaker - Tip: If you don't own a torque wrench it's a good investment. A 3/8's for up to 50 foot lbs and a 1/2" for higher torques. If you don't have a repair manual you might want to buy one so you know how much to tighten things.

Tip: While the intake is off, it's a great time to replace the valve cover gaskets. I'm facing this repair on two of my 5.0's soon.

 

[1998Exp]

+++ on Koda's advice to invest in a torque wrench. Not the best, but even the $20 one at HF will save you a lot of grief. I wouldn't even attempt the intake replacement job without a torque wrench -- and without consulting a manual about the specified torques for all the fasteners. Incidentally, the specified torque for the ECT sensor is 10-15 ft-lbs.
PS: What made you replace that sensor? Contrary to popular belief, they rarely fail, and a code for out of range reading usually indicates a wiring issue (open or short to ground).

 

[imp]

+++ on Koda's advice to invest in a torque wrench. Not the best, but even the $20 one at HF will save you a lot of grief. I wouldn't even attempt the intake replacement job without a torque wrench -- and without consulting a manual about the specified torques for all the fasteners. Incidentally, the specified torque for the ECT sensor is 10-15 ft-lbs.
PS: What made you replace that sensor? Contrary to popular belief, they rarely fail, and a code for out of range reading usually indicates a wiring issue (open or short to ground).

@1998Exp
My '90 F-150 when cold, fired and started right away, but immediately died. Add throttle would keep running, then after a few minutes, everything ran fine until next cold start. No codes thrown. I figured the cold ECT reading told the PCM to enrich mixture to attain idle, so if PCM though mistakenly engine was not cold, no enrichment, like a choke", no idle, engine dies.

Replaced ECT, problem solved! That was with EEC-IV, of course; today's EEC-V is more complex. imp

 

[koda2000]

I should include a 1/4" torque wrench for many of the small bolts on your engine, whose recommended torque settings are in inch pounds. Personally I don't usually bother with inch pound torques, as I have a pretty feel for small bolts with many decades of experience, but if you're new to this it's really easy to strip and/or break small bolts.

 

[shucker1]

I should include a 1/4" torque wrench for many of the small bolts on your engine, whose recommended torque settings are in inch pounds.

Got that, Plus and inch pound screw driver....

 

[imp]

Got that, Plus and inch pound screw driver....

@shucker1
Better update, inch-pounds are passé. Today it's Metric, and all those years of developing "gut-feel" for what's acceptable or not, goes out the window. Newton-Meters????

****. imp

 

[shucker1]

So, since metric is in we can go to the old German scale?

Gutten-Tight?