Dealer quote for rear axle seals on 2003 Mounty?

[wesalexleft]

My 2003 Mounty is leaking on one side axle seal. I had gotten an email from a local Ford dealer running a Black Friday special of 50% off labor on any service ticket written Black Friday AM from 0700-1000. I was there at 0715 to have both axle seals replaced. The service writer called about two hours later to inform me the cost would be $805.00 plus parts. The truck is back sitting in the garage still dripping as we speak. Everyone else has mentioned $350.00'ish for this job, so I told them no. I'll get another estimate on another day, or do it myself. Another thread mentioned getting a Lisle 17850 seal installer, but the one mentioned apparently has been discontinued for some time now. Any special tools needed to do this repair, or can I get by with sockets, etc? I may be standing my ground and doing the work myself. Any idea on the going rate to have this performed a a dealer? I don't want to reward a dealer shop by paying them 50% of double the actual cost on principal. I'd happily pay $300.00 plus parts to a dealer that gave me a quote of that without smoke and mirrors, but at $400.00 and above, it's worth my Saturday for spending some time with my tunes and wrenches.

 

[Jstcruz]

I had my truck at the dealer for a recall, and they gave me the most rediculouse list of outragouse prices to fix things - some things not even needing done - like replacing my 6 month old pcv valve for $40. I asked them if they were making stuff up because it was an older truck lol. My rule of thumb is; you take your car to the dealership for warrenty and recall, the rest of the time pay a freind, a shop in your area, or do the work your self. Even at half off, I think the stealership would cost far more than a reputable shop.

 

[tower]

I only bring a car back to a dealer for warranty repair, if it's not something I feel like doing I bring it to a small local shop and would not pay more then $300.

The rear seals are not that hard to replace and I have done it with normal hand tools in about 1-2hrs and 1/2hr with simple air tools (per side) taking my time.

 

[wesalexleft]

Do I need a special tool to install the axle seals in the differential, or can this be accomplished with some sockets and a little ingenuity? I don't mind working on the truck, but hate getting it high on jack stands and then crawling under it with a hammer.

 

[Exproblems]

My 2003 Mounty is leaking on one side axle seal. I had gotten an email from a local Ford dealer running a Black Friday special of 50% off labor on any service ticket written Black Friday AM from 0700-1000. I was there at 0715 to have both axle seals replaced. The service writer called about two hours later to inform me the cost would be $805.00 plus parts. The truck is back sitting in the garage still dripping as we speak. Everyone else has mentioned $350.00'ish for this job, so I told them no. I'll get another estimate on another day, or do it myself. .

During the buying inspection period for my Explorer, I found the front ,passenger side axle seal leaking. I told the dealership they needed to have this repaired and they sent my Explorer over to a tranny shop($70 per hr labor rate) who repaired the axle seal for a cost of $107.00 parts, labor and tax incl. They also gave me a copy of the repair receipt. Don't know if the rears are harder to do than the fronts(kind of doubt it), but this should give you an idea of what one side should cost. I figure the tranny shop charged a little over an hours worth of labor and then the cost of the seal($10-$15 ?). That service writer for your local Ford dealership was smoking crack that day, $805 labor plus the parts and tax, what a rip off!

 

[Jstcruz]

Do I need a special tool to install the axle seals in the differential, or can this be accomplished with some sockets and a little ingenuity? I don't mind working on the truck, but hate getting it high on jack stands and then crawling under it with a hammer.

Usualy a flat head screw driver can get the seals out for you. A large socket can get them back in.

 

[jav1]

$805 seems steep (labor only) but it is fairly involved. Getting the stub axels out can be a pain. You likely have the old 2 piece seals so it would involve removing the diff seals as well as the axel cups- cleaning the axels well, installing new seal (which can be done with a really large socket- I used a carrier bearing outer race as the seal press ring is around 3") and re-installing everything.

I'd say if your well equiped at home and don't kill yourself or ruin into any problems, you could the job in 4-6 hours.

The only special tool you'll need is a good puller to remove the stub axels and a large hollow seal installation tool.

 

[wesalexleft]

thanks! I've ordered up the new unitized seals. I do believe I have the old two piece seals and one is leaking. I don't think I'll run into as many problems as some in the removal process as I'm in the south without the corrosion issues many have with northern salts, etc. Any good tips? When you say remove the axle cups, you're talking the half shaft, correct? My plan, remove wheel/rotor, disconnect toe link, etc to swing knuckle out of the way, and then with a wood dowel/stud, hit the halfshaft to pop it out of the diff. From there, its just a matter of pulling the old seal with a seal puller, clean it up, remove the seal protector from the axle, and then reassemble with the new seal. Does this sound about right?

 

[tower]

A small flat screwdriver will work much better than a seal puller but yes that is a good plan.

 

[jav1]

the seal cup is on the half shaft. Your process seems correct- just not complete-

REMOVE:
wheel
caliper
rotor
toe link- mount bolt (cold chisel spread joint to release shank )
upper control arm- mount bolt (cold chisel spread joint to release shank)
axel nut (35/36 mm deep socket- i couldn't find 35 but a 36 worked fine)
**hardest part- PRESS out the axel spline from the knuckle with good puller- lube threads- lots of force required!
disconnect e-brake cable
swing knuckle down- take care not to bend brake backer plate
knock stub axel out of diff-
remove seal from diff (I used a sharp wood chisel to get behind the lip- screw driver was too blunt)
remove axel seal cup
clean everything- reverse to install

 

[wesalexleft]

Sounds good. What is everyone using to install(hammer) in the new one piece seal? I don't really want to buy the $70.00 seal installer tool to put these in if it's not needed. I hopefully won't be doing them again any time soon. Also, is a new shaft nut is needed when reassembling? I'll pick them up if so.

 

[jav1]

I don't believe a new shaft nut is required. I used and old bearing race to install the new seal.