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Debate - Age Verses Mileage...

jcasey007

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City, State
Stratford Upon Avon, Warwickshire
Year, Model & Trim Level
Jeep Commander 5.7L HEMI
So I'm still chewing over what car I have to get next, The 2003 explorer on ebay is sliding by the way as I've found that the middle belt is still only a lap belt and my wife has and will never be happy putting one of the kids in it.

So I'm going over in my head the following:-

What is better an older car with a lower milage or a newer car with a higher mileage?

If you assume both are in full working order, FSH and same spec - and same price (the important thing). Oh and it will be a 4x4 with a BIG engine!

And as you know I DO put the miles on at an alarming rate!:D and has to be reliable

Advice, personal experience or opinions welcome as my head is starting to spin looking at Autotrader every night!

cheers

Jim
 



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hi jim
i always go for the newer car as i think its easer to sort out the mechanical parts than the body worke. and most newer cars with hige milage have genraly been company cars and have been well serviced.cheers chris
 






Jim. I agree with Chris. Moving parts are easier to sort than bodywork (although the Ex is testing me on this one at the moment!) and the newer the car, the easier it should be to get the parts.
I always used to believe the opposite and that low miles was king but, having had a few very low milers now, they're sometimes more trouble due to lack of use and short journeys.
I think it very much depends on an assessment of the individual vehicle in question.
GRoB
 






i have bought and sold over 20 cars in the last 4 years, and the low mileage older cars seem to have the most problems.the best cars i have ever owned were over 200,000 miles. with today's technology high miles are not as big a factor as maintenance to me.
 






I think it depends on the vehicle itself. Some vehicles are throw away while some are for the long haul. I have a nissan altima 2002 with only 114,000 on it and the motor just detonated but the body is great. My 1995 explorer has 230,000 on it exactly and it runs great but the body is starting to fall apart a little but I would not trade it for a new nissan ever.

I'm actually looking for a new vehicle. I personally am looking at a 2005 cobalt with 59,000 on it instead of a 2006 with 76,000 on it. I like the 2005 more because it was better taken care of than the 2006. Plus the 2005 is less money so its a no brainer for me
 






thanks all

I'm looking at a land rover Discovery 2, 2003 or 2004. V8 4.0 with LPG.

the thing that is doing my head in is the variation in prices, mileage even within a 2 year period.

I figure the landrover and explorer will handle long trips and big miles in the same way, that is descent service schedule and keep on top of it....
 






thanks all

I'm looking at a land rover Discovery 2, 2003 or 2004. V8 4.0 with LPG.

the thing that is doing my head in is the variation in prices, mileage even within a 2 year period.

I figure the landrover and explorer will handle long trips and big miles in the same way, that is descent service schedule and keep on top of it....

Point to note on the discos is the rear suspension. If it is the air ride then they are prone to problems (hearsay). Worth a bit of research. if i get time over the next few days i'll look for some Practical classics or Mechanics monthly mags i have as one of them did a bit of a R&R of one over a few issues.
 






I tend to think a car, truck or a tractor gets into its own ways or dare I say habits…

If it’s been put to work from new and maintained well then it will work well for the rest of its working life where as the older, nursed from new piece of kit seems to be full of troubles when it has to work, almost as if it’s got lazy.

So I’d always go for the newer, high mileage motor PROVIDING it’s been well maintained.:salute:
 






your correct Jan

rear airbags can go pop, alot of people replace the airbag system with coil over shocks for £125k
 






You considered one of these. If their 2.5D is any thing like the crds i've driven they shift.
shogun sport
 






Yes I like them but only 5 seats, I need 7 which limits my choices.

What I really want is a Jeep commander with the 5.7l Hemi and LPG, but my budget won't quite get there.:(
 






I dont know- my body is letting me down, my rear end is rusting- the bumper, wondering if I can get a skin for it.........? fraid they are all showing age now and it could be time to do a group purchase on parts for a better price?
I have a spare shed to store loads od panels, bumpers etc- what do you all think?
 






Jim,

I've got to chuck my four penn'orth into this - the 4 litre Rover motor is a pile of crap! Seriously!

The thing is they've got a wet liner system and the relationship between the rad and the engine (physically) is wrong. What happens is they get airlocked or low coolant but because of the respective levels, the system doesn't detect it until it's catastrophic. Next thing is the liners drop and the motor is toast.

If you really want one, choose very carefully. I'm not sure how prevalent it is in the Disco but if you look up Range Rovers on ebay for example, you'll find the vast majority boast "new engine fitted" around 100k and this is why.

The 4.6 is a copmpletely different arrangement with top hat liners and they're not affected.

Actually, to get back to the point of your initial question, surely hte machine for you (if you're moving away from the Explorer) must be a Land Cruiser? They're practically unbreakable and almost unaffected by mileage.

Good luck!
 






thanks Jon, the discovery is not my first choice either.

In fact we have descided to keep the explorer for at least the summer and get a pair of smart cars (forfour for the wife and a roadster for me) to use for company travel etc

so I have a little to do on the explorer (rebuild the back axle etc) to get her ready for the touring holiday in August, along with a new pair of rear shocks and a few other bits and pieces.

So you can't get rid of me just yet:D
 






Good! As far as I can see you're part of the A-team anyway so we need you!

Now I'm going to preach again (sorry): we had a Smart for a long time and even went so far as to have it main dealer (Mercedes) serviced.

Then the engine broke - big style!

I'm doing this on the basis that you don't already know so if you do, forgive me.

Smarts have tiny filters and titchy sumps with no drain. 1st rule is synthetic oil only and change it at least twice as often as the book says. You'll need a vacuum pump or buy an adapted sump.

2nd rule is make sure whoever services/serviced it changed BOTH lots of plugs (they have six so you'll be right at home!). Lots of people miss the lower set - especially in the 4/2 - and then they fail, you get uneven combustion (hot spots) and as Smarts don't have "real" pistons, they die - horribly. Happened to us at about 55k and Mercedes didn't give a flying f... about its FSH - just quoted me £4k for e new motor.

Enter Chequered Flag in Kent with a rebuilt motor with Stage 2 remap. Not a small screaming thing but actually drove more like a 2 litre - unless you stamped on the gas in which case it went like s... off a chrome shovel!

Anyway, you've wise enough to buy your own car but seriously, look carefully, FSH doesn't mean jack and if there's anything you'd like to know, shout up! Alternatively take a look at Evilution. There's very little Kane hasn't done on a Smart and you'll appreciate his candid (if sometimes blunt) delivery.

Cheers,

JC
 












Well they're a bit extra aren't they??!! Question is which do you go for in your situation - the sycophantic Messerschmart or the confrontational Smartfire?

"Don't mention the war!"

Anyway, never heard of the company but that don't mean jack as they say. The difficulty with the Smart is the service history is held in the ECU and at the dealer - they don't (or didn't) have a book so it's tough to check.

That said, ours (as I said) was main dealer serviced all its life and still died a horrible death so all it meant was I'd paid Merc Benz £75.00 an hour for lots of hours I could have done myself.

The thing to do is ask them some carefully chosen questions and drop bits into the conversation. You'll soon tell if they actually know anything or not. The short version is you're looking for smoke on start up, drive away and between gears. Let them light it up and give it a blip - if it's blue and smelly, walk away. Similarly have a look around the engine bay - if it's covered with oil spray or squeaky clean - warning!

Do have a read on Evilution though because there are a few things which MUST be avoided. There's a cracking issue with the turbo manifold as as the man says "if you see oil in here, mortgage your house". Be sure to check the a/c too because the condensers rot and if the compressor fails, it's engine out!

Generally speaking they're not a difficult car to live with though you would certainly benefit from a remap - not for screaming performance but for sheer driveability. According to my mate the racing driver, our remapped 600 drove considerably better than his stock 700. To me, it just drive like a 2 litre anything - it was an absolute pleasure and really muscular between 3 & 4 grand.

Chequered Flag tipped me off about the oil change interval and it makes sense in hindsight. You've got 3 litres of oil expected to last 12 months or 12,000 miles. That's a lot of s....e to carry around for that time. The change isn't difficult if you've got a vac pump but plug sumps are plentiful too.

They're a tasty little sod when they're right and with the remap, you'll piss off a lot of bigger motors - especially those who can't figure out front from back with their baseball caps - plus you'll return something like 54mpg average. The remap also removes the top speed restriction and lets you drive it right off the dial but you'll need big b...s to do that with those skinny front tyres. DON'T be tempted to modify those btw - they're there to induce understeer which stops you turing it over - it's deliberate.

The other thing I've just remembered - and you need to be really sure you can live with this - is the throttle and gearbox are electronic. Now I know this will light your lemon and you'll probably buy one now just to re-write the software and cure it but it seems to me that the standard processor can't cope with the inputs it gets. I'll expand;

When you come to an island/junction and lift off, the throttle drops right off, if you touch the brakes, that seems to add to the situation and what then happens is if you see your chance to go and hit the gas, there's nothing there - at all!! You are quite literally hung out to dry for what seem like an eternity while the CPU updates and then suddenly - BANG! - it opens the throttle and you're away (just in time to change your pants!). After a while you learn to adapt you're driving style and do it either in a totally foreign way (to any other car) or you left-foot brake it and get on the power much earlier than you otherwise would.

It's dangerous, it's recognised as such and they haven't improved it a jot! Now that's right up your alley, isn't it??

I hope in doing this I've given you both sides of the car. They're a bundle of fun for a long time and if you really wanted to be mean, bung a gas tank in the back and run it for peanuts!

Cheers,

Jon
 






and the steering colum ujs seize too after periods of non-use (like holidays). You come back to your car and can't turn the wheel. This is a git because there's two joints - one in the car and one outside. The one in the car is dead easy, the other is harder than changing Explorer plugs! Plus-gas and grease - if you can actually reach the affected joint.
 






thanks for the info Jon. I've gone off the Spitfire one now and am going to look at a roadster Brabus tonight to see if I can live with the low down or if I go for a fortwo (Brabus again) both under 30k miles.... we will see,

cheers

J

BTW my wife thinks it's my age that I am contemplating another 2 seater....
 



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Funny thing that - my kids think it's my age that makes me drive Explorers!
 






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