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Delete Check Valve - one near firewall under hood

08EddieCA

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 31, 2016
Messages
417
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Location
CA
City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 & 03 X (Eddie B & XLS)
Ok, so I discovered I had my 5th broken check valve. I'm not cheap I just got tired of paying $4-$6 every time the plastic splits.

I used a rubber sleeve and simply connected the two vacuum lines. Can you come up with a reason why I should not do this?
Thanks.

PS - clearing up vacuum leaks.

View attachment Delete Check Valve.jpg
 



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Dealer advised that I would negate the pressure built up in the pressure reservoir if I didn't have a check valve. So, I added a new on back. I used Gorilla Glue around the seam to help it stay together. Hopefully it will last a bit longer than usual. They have a tendency to split at the seam.
 






I would think that you would lose ventilation control function under heavy load such as climbing a long Highway hill. Usually that is one of the symptoms of a bad check valve or a leak in the vacuum canister system. For example, you have the air conditioning set to blow out of the dash Vents, but it defaults to windshield defroster under heavy load
I am surprised you had so much trouble as my 2006 Eddie Bauer is still on its original check valve.
 






Weird, this is the 2nd post in a day or two about this.

Just in my testing where I reversed the Check Valve (flipping it the wrong way so it would work improperly) I experienced no cabin heat. This was during the winter so I only tried turning on the heat, but the blend door (I'm just making a semi educated guess that this is the process) doesn't work and doesn't allow the desired heat/cool air into the cabin. You can crank up the fan speed and it will blow at the desired speed but nothing enters the cabin. This did eliminate the "wooshing" noise though when I would press the gas pedal.

With that said, I have no idea what would happen, or what would be the up/down side of bypassing the valve altogether. I'm guessing (this is an uneducated guess) that the blend door would fail under heavier loads (WOT, inclines) and cause a temporary loss of heat/ac?? I'm simply guessing at this point.

As Michael Loibl said, I think it could auto switch to the windshield defroster (again, uneducated guess here) because it's the path of least resistance???????

EDIT: here's the one post that I did my testing with -
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...noise-when-accelerating-then-dies-out.303106/
 






Remember to reverse your battery cables in the spring so the AC will know to blow cold air instead of heat.;)
 






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