Do I need a new battery? Need my truck this weekend for hauling stuff!!!

[NJExplorerFan]

Hey guys,

I been noticing that through the Winter so far, my truck is cranking a few more times longer than normal to fire up. Didn't think anything of it until tonight when I tried to start it. To my surprise, I only heard click-click-click-click-click-click.... etc. It would not turn on. I finally got it started through a jump start - thankfully my dad lives close by with his Lexus GX 470 SUV.

Do you guys think it's the battery? Could it be the starter? Alternator? I bought my truck 2 years ago so I don't know how long the current battery has been in there. If it is in need of a new battery, can you guys make some recommendations? So far, the Sears DieHard Gold seems to have the best pricing at $100 and 850 CCA (cold cranking amps). How many cold crank amps do I need? Is 650 enough?

Other brands you guys can recommend and where to get it?

 

[turborich]

Only you can answer that question.

How old is your battery? look for a date code sticker on it.

Do you have a volt meter? If so check the voltage with the truck turned off & running. Off voltage should be somewhere around 12.4 - 12.7 volts, With it running it should jump to somewhere around 13.6 - 14.8. If the voltage doesn't go up when started then I would start looking at the alternator. If the voltage does go up the battery is probably at the end of it's life. A decent volt meter can be purchased at Harbor Freight Tools for under $5.00.

Where to buy? Well since 60% of the batteries in the US are made by Johnson controls I would look for the best bang for the buck. Wal-Mart, Costco, Interstate, Autozone, Motorcraft, Delco, Mopar, etc. All made by the same company. The big box stores will be the best deal. I like the Wal-Mart Everstart MAXX batteries with the 3 year FREE replacement.

Hope this helps.

 

[Exproblems]

when I tried to start it. To my surprise, I only heard click-click-click-click-click-click.... etc. It would not turn on. I finally got it started through a jump start >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The repeated clicking sound when trying to start a vehicle up usually means a dead battery. You possibly have a bad cell in the battery or your alternator is not re-charging the battery properly while you run the Ex. You can get both checked for "free" at an auto parts store such as Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts.

>>>>>>>>>> If it is in need of a new battery, can you guys make some recommendations? So far, the Sears DieHard Gold seems to have the best pricing at $100 and 850 CCA (cold cranking amps).>>>>>>>>>>

A 850 cca Diehard Gold battery for only a $100? Buy it! Last time I was in my local Sears store they wanted around $200 for a top of the line battery. Just don't buy the cheapest battery, get a decent one with a good replacement warranty. I never had any issues with Sears batteries in the past, but some people don't like them.

>>>>>>>>>How many cold crank amps do I need? Is 650 enough?>>>>>>>

You live in New Jersey, it gets cold there at times during winter, get at least an 850 CCA or higher battery. Never can have enough CCA in my opinion. Better safe than sorry.

>>>>>>>>>>Other brands you guys can recommend and where to get it?>>>>>>>>>

Walmart probably has the lowest prices. Parts stores tend to be a little higher mark up. You can get an online coupon to use at Advance Auto Parts Stores web site at www.couponcabin.com and they have a $40 off coupon on orders of $100 or more. A new battery will most likely price out just over a $100 or more, so you can get $40 off using that coupon there. Order online and pick it up the same day at your local store.

 

[D Hook]

Good advice on the coupon offer.^^^^

I swear by Motorcraft because I've had very good experience with them. I don't care for Sears since I had two Die Hards in a row die within 18 months.

If you can, take it to the dealer and have them do the replacement. I just did mine and it was around $120 for the battery and installation. This way, if my 4x4 module blows, I'm covered. (Read lots of threads about the module blowing while servicing the battery.) They also coat the battery terminals and check the cables while they're doing it and make sure the new one is anchored properly. If not anchored, it will bounce around and vibrate, damaging the internals of the battery, shortening it's life span or possibly shorting out to the fender or hood or something, welding it to the body and doing some major electronics damage, not to mention possibly starting a fire. (Been there done that on an old Ranchero several years ago.)

Yes, you can DIY it but at the dealer, I knew I was getting the correct size and CCA for my vehicle, plus the satisfaction of knowing they've done them before and will be sure nothing unexpected happens. YMMV.

Like turborich said, buy the best battery you can afford. Check the cable connections and clean them good (I usually dip mine in a glass of water with baking soda in it to get off the battery corrosion left behind), reattach and coat them with your favorite anti-corrosion spray or with vaseline to prevent more corrosion. Then cover with plastic terminal covers and you shouldn't have to worry about it for the next 5 years or so.

Just my .02.

 

[pet575]

Are you sure you aren't jumping the gun by skipping over a close check of all the cables and connections? If you did that already, you didn't say so.

I replaced a battery a few years ago under warranty at no cost, only to have the same problem pop up again a few months later. Turned out the negative cable was internally corroded and that was the problem all along. Couldn't see that from the outside, though. Took me pulling on it a little and it feeling like a spaghetti noodle instead of a cable to figure that out.

Start here first (if you haven't already). Might save yourself $50 or more.

 

[GDawg]

You should be able to go to an Autozone or an O'Reilly auto parts store and they can do a Battery/Alternator/Starter check for free.

It's not your starter. Check that your cable connections are really tight! Make sure the cable connectors aren't all corroded and crusty. Your battery could be on it's last legs or your alternator isn't charging it all the way or you have a parasitic leak...

DON'T buy a Walmart battery. Those fail more than any other battery I've ever seen.

 

[thamusic54]

Hey guys,

I been noticing that through the Winter so far, my truck is cranking a few more times longer than normal to fire up. Didn't think anything of it until tonight when I tried to start it. To my surprise, I only heard click-click-click-click-click-click.... etc. It would not turn on. I finally got it started through a jump start - thankfully my dad lives close by with his Lexus GX 470 SUV.

Do you guys think it's the battery? Could it be the starter? Alternator? I bought my truck 2 years ago so I don't know how long the current battery has been in there. If it is in need of a new battery, can you guys make some recommendations? So far, the Sears DieHard Gold seems to have the best pricing at $100 and 850 CCA (cold cranking amps). How many cold crank amps do I need? Is 650 enough?

Other brands you guys can recommend and where to get it?

NJExplorerfan, We had no winter in Jersey this year. LOL.
The batteries sold by COSTCO are made by Interstate, the price is great and the quality excellent. A lot cheaper than Sears.