Drivebelt tensioner gone bad? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Drivebelt tensioner gone bad?

93Cobra

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August 29, 2001
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City, State
St. Louis County
Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Eddie Bauer V6 4X4
Is it possible that the tensioner could need to be replaced? I replaced the serpentine belt a couple months back, and the tensioner looked normal. I just got my Missouri saftey inspection today (1995 EB) and it passed, but they said the drivebelt tensioner needed to be replaced. What could be wrong with it that it would need to be replaced. Is it hard to remove if indeed it is bad? Please advise. Thanks.

Scott
 



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I believe that there may have been a recall on those.

Very easy to change though.

A friend here got his changed from the dealer and about a year later it broke so we changed it.
 






If you are talking on a ohv v6.. it is easy.. I had to do it in the parking lot of the hotel.. When ours went.. it froze.. and then shewed up the belt.. the belt cost me more than the part.. (autozone had the part.. dealer had the belt.. go figure)..

Once the belt is off you just remove 2 bolts.. and the entire piece comes out.. (the pulley and the pivot it is bolted to).. I didn't even get dirty when I did it..

Total time was 30 minutes to do the work..

~Mark
 






Thanks! I called Autozone and they have the tensioner for $39.99. They had the belt too, but I don't know much that will be.

Scott
 






same on a 94?

I have a 94 XLT. I just replaced the alternator tonight, and i used my hand to pull the tensioner to give me slack to get the belt on and off. Now that everything is back on the belt SCREAMS at me and I think I am actuallyt losing juice from the battery.
If I need a new one , How can you access the bolt on the tensioner, The fan really gets in the way even from underneath!?
Please respond ASAP this is my daily driver and I don't know what to do.

(I revved it a whole lot to see if I just needed to get it going but just screamed louder)

Thanks
Blake
:frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate
 






I just have to put my 2 cents in. Ford drivebelt tensioners are horrible. I have had very bad luck with them. Lucky for me they take about 5 minutes to change. The tensioner went out on my truck, my sisters 94 T-bird, and my dad's old escort. Plus a couple of my buddies truck's (fords) tensioner seized up too. They all come to me because I have had enough practice changing these things out.
 






If you are so quick at it hoe about some advice on it?
Fore example on my 94 XLT are the bolts reverse thread? Or just anything!!!! If I drive it tomarrow am I going to be stranded?
 






I was on the highway on time when my belt tensioner completely broke and fell off, all my accessories went off and the truck stalled. So from my experience it just might go bad once in a while.
 






On my 94 Sport there is just one bolt through the middle of the tensioner, unscrew that bolt, put on the new tensioner, there is a slot that does not allow it move but allows the spring actio to happen. Then you got to but a wrench in the square hole I think it is a 1/2 in wrech or maybe a 3/8 I am not sure. Turn it so you can get a new belt on. O yeah get a new belt the tensioner probably messed up the old one. Even if it looks new I wouldn't trust it. The easiest fit I have ever done on an engine.
 






Well....................
can anyone tell me how to change it?
Pleeeeeease????????????????????:fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :fire: :shoot: :shoot: :shoot: :shoot: :shoot: :shoot: :shoot: :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :frustrate :D
 






When we bought our tensior set from Ford it was the Tensioner and the bracket.. Take the belt off.. take off 2 bolts (normal thread).. put the new tensioner on on.. put the belt back on.. it was that easy.. It isn't hard..

~Mark
 






sorry for the frustration, I know the bolt is it just good ol' lefty loosey righty tighty? and what do you mean exactly square hole? you mean just the wrench no sockets?
 






The square hole is to release tension on the belt so you can put it on or off. The square hole allows you to put a wrench in, with no socket, and get some leverage. The square hole is 1/2, trusty Haynes manual! And if it is a pre 94 it should only be one bolt to get the hole belt tensioner assembly off. I never had to deal with a bracket or anything.
 






I'll give it a try but it would help to know how to get around that fan!?
But thanks!!!
I really appriciate the help.
 






Thank you rich!!!!
My wife will love you for helping to releive my frustration!
What a great V-Day present!:D :D :D :D :D :D :p
 






Yeah the fan is a pain. Really the only thing you have to remove is the intake tube which only two screw clamps. I stuck the wrench in the square hole and put the handle in between the fan blades and just pulled up, with my hand and the wrench handle in between the fan blades. Once you do it once, you will be able to do it so easy. You just have to get the hang of it. On my truck it took about 45 minutes to change the belt and the tensioner. the next time I did it on my buddies 93 it took 5 minutes.
 






After thinking about how you described taking it off, I think we are talking about the same part.. just that when I got it from Ford it was more than just the pulley+bearing.. it was on a bracket.

I put arrow to the bolts I had to deal with.. I guess it all depends on where you get the part.. (I was stuck with Ford, as I was on a road trip in an unfamiliar town).

engine-belt-route.gif
 






The 93 is a funny animal when you ask for the part. Early ones use the 92 all steel tensioner that rides on the flat side of the belt and the later 93s the cheaper plastic type that rides on the V side instead of the smooth side of the belt. You will need to put a socket on the nut and pull to relieve tension from the belt. I was looking for a place for a breaker bar but none was to be found. You should have a sticker on the vehicle that shows how. Then if you have the fan shroud out of the way you can unbolt and replace. I used a napa one that supposedly has better springs and cost $80 or so. The Autozone one was about $60 but not in stock. At 100,000 look out for the radiator too. They go to leaking about that time. I replace an LTD, Ranger and Explorer radiator all about 100,000. It's a good time to get the Thermostat, hoses, radiator and serpentine belt replaces as you will have most of the stuff out of the way if you do it in the right order. rc
 






Tensioner is done!!!

Ok for all of you that might do a search on this here is your answer!

The part is $37 from O'rileys, Not too bad a change just make sure you have the tools you need and a little patience and hopefully an extra hand!

First take off the hose that runs from the air box/MAF sensor to the engine housing. Using a blade screwdriver on the tension brackets.
Then locate the pully tensioner, easy to find on passenger side. The pully has two parts, the one "wheel" that has the bolt through it and the "wheel" with the tension on the belt. I will now call these W1 and W2 respectavely.
use a socket wrench WITHOUT a socket in the square whole in W2. To loosen turn it counterclockwise.
(In my case the tensioner had sprung so that I could do this with my hand by actually pulling clockwise, only because it had sprung out of position)
You just have to work in between the fan blades and doing it left hand will help a lot!
Once the belt is off Use a 13mm socket on the bolt in W1, this is kind of difficult bc of the fan but just take it easy and get it on. I had 2 socket wrenches, one solid and one that the head swivles back and forth for weird angles, I used the soild one bc the fan kept switching the wrench angles on the other one.
Once the socket is on I used a small board and hit the wrench to loosen the bolt. Lefty loosey!
Then patience and left hand twisting and the bolt will slide out. Then out comes the old tensioner!

Replace with the new one. Note the notch on W1 on the backside make sure it lines up then put the bolt back in and tighten.

Use the socket on W2 again to get the tensioner to move. it is pretty tough to move with just your hand but can be done. Use the socket if you're doing it by yourself most definately!
Replace the hose and you're done!

Took me about 30 minutes but less if I had to do it again.

Thanks to everyone on the board for the help I needed it! Hopefully this helps someone in the same situation!

This was done on a 94 XLT w/ ac
I don't know any tech terms so feel free to give the names of anything I don't know!

Thanks
Blake
 



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Note: The 92 Unit is different and does not have a square hole and it totally different from the later version as it runs on the other side of the belt. You do use a socket on the nut of the early 93 and older 4.0 tensioners pulling towards passenger side on both Ranger and Explorer. rc
 






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