EGR removal help | Ford Explorer Forums

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EGR removal help

e200e

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April 7, 2013
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City, State
Philly PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer
Hey some of you know I'm working on my head gaskets I have a 1996 ford explorer 4.0 OHV v6. I've taken out air box, drive belt, AC compressor, alternator, upper intake, coil pack, plug wires, wiring harness etc.. I have good access to the passenger valve cover but the driver valve cover has this pesky EGR that I can't remove and the tube on it that connects to upper intake. I'm stuck and I don't no what to do, haynes manual doesn't seem to have anything about EGR and it's so hard to find specific information on it through google. I'm so close and this EGR is bugging me, I did get the AC lines out the way today I went and got quick disconent tools and worked like a charm but the EGR just seems way out of reach and I don't even know what to do, its becoming problematic.
 



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EGR is a very stubborn and at times a big pain. The manuals are very vague on the removal.

They get stuck after all the years of high heat, and they are not that easy to get at with the location. Seeing as you have to use a large wrench and the space is confining as it is, it can be daunting to remove.

From what I know of, you might have to soak it with a good penetrating lubricant such as "PB" short for penetrating blaster. Doing this a few times a day for up to a few days even. Get yourself a cheaper brand, or an old wrench that fits, and cut off the round end, to make it fit in the space with it shorter. Once it's on, you can use something like another big box wrench to help turn it.

Other methods are the claw foot end tools. These attach to a socket wrench and give you a 90* angle to go at it.

Some have used heat with a small torch to help loosen it, and that's what I would try. You just have to be careful not to burn anything up in the process. Make a choice on the method to remove before you spray with penetrating oils.

Once it is removed, you can continue on to remove the rest of the assembly. Be careful not to damage the old EGR valve & the tubes, as they are pretty expensive to replace new. I would clean up the threads before installing it again.

If this isn't what your after, I'm sorry if I didn't understand the question correctly.
 






No you seem to understand exactly what I'm talking about. Its tough I tried to fit some wrenches in there it's hard to even tell what size it is. These are some good ideas I don't know what I'm gonna do yet. I appreciate it I gotta think about it.
 












I think it is 27mm (aka 1-1/16"). I would use heat (acetylene) if you can do it without melting something. Those connections are really stubborn and could easily need more than just penetrating oil. If that still doesn't work, you might try adding some vibration/impact in the form of something like an air hammer. Use a pointed punch and work on the connection in the loosening direction.
 






Mine was really easy the first time..I just used a big crescent wrench and accessed it through the wheel well by first removing the shroud. Then I coated the threads with a little anti- seize compound on reassembly, and it has always been easy to get off for me since.

To be clear, you only need to remove the two bolts holding the EGR valve port to the Upper Intake pipe. If you can't budge the nut holding the EGR pipe to the Exhaust Manifold, then I'd just leave it alone and remove the Exhaust Manifold/EGR Valve as an assembly. You're going to be pulling the exhaust manifold anyway.
 






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