Expected cost for local mechanic to replace both upper control arms | Ford Explorer Forums

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Expected cost for local mechanic to replace both upper control arms

ELeBlanc

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December 12, 2016
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Location
brooklyn ny
City, State
brooklyn, ny
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer
I'm having both replaced on my (new to me) 2010 4.6L with 135k miles. Told mechanic Moog parts. I'm zero percent mechanic but avid reader of Explorer Forums. Is there anything else it makes sense to do while they are doing this??

When I bought this six weeks ago my first order of business was to have Tranny Shop drain some fluid from the 6R80 and replace (which I believe - rather guess) will be the first time the fluid has been touched. SO numerous other pressing repairs have intervened so transmission has not been touched. Last week the Hood Latch fell apart while I was driving - fortunately only at 10mph...

I bought this because I thought it would need less repairs than my 97 5.0 AWD which I love but was constantly being repaired... Well at least so far I'm spending more on the 2010.

Lastly, my mechanic said $600 to replace both upper control arms... Parts seem cheap so that must be mostly a labor charge...
 






It does seem a bit steep to me, not sure what book rate is but each side can be done in under an hour unless there's a lot of rust to fight with. "Can be" and book rate are two different things, wouldn't surprise me if there's a rate based on 1.5hrs each. Parts, of course most shops mark them up as well. If it includes an alignment (which you will need) then it's not too far off I suppose.

Since you'll need the alignment, and since it is probably wearing other suspension components at a similar rate, I'd also consider replacing at least the lower ball joints if not whole control arm (which includes new BJs) and the tie rod ends. I'd also look at the sway bar bushings and end links but those don't need an alignment done when replaced, and there's no real time savings not having to take any of the rest apart (for above repairs process) to do them, and are easier to DIY if you are so inclined.

Every now and then (esp. indy mechanics) you'll find a mechanic that allows you to provide your own parts (as long as they're not garbage quality so they don't fear a comeback for a problem related to that), and if he doesn't have to bother sourcing the parts, especially locally at higher rates, you might save some money there, getting them from Rock Auto, or Amazon if RA wants too much for shipping.

I'd just make sure they send the right part # and all the pieces to it are there. Last time I bought a Moog BJ from Rock Auto it was missing the snap ring. I maybe could've cleaned up the old snap ring to reuse but wasn't sure if the Motorcraft original was compatible (hadn't started the repair yet) and you never know if rust could be an issue. They handled that replacement with no problems but set back the repair a week.
 






It is about 1-2 hour job per side.multiply by a shop rate in your area plus the replacement parts (aftermarket or OEM) plus the wheel alignment
 






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