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Explorer won't start

393stroker

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Joined
January 29, 2007
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City, State
va
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer
This is the second time this month that my explorer turns over but won't start. It's like it's getting no fuel or spark, but it started last time after waiting awhile after trying to start it. I need to figure this problem out soon. Anyone have this happen to them and what was it? My truck idles real low and sometimes cuts off at stops or when going from reverse to drive, so maybe it's the IAC valve.
 



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You need to isolate if it's a fuel OR a spark issue. I'd remove the intake tube and spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body, then try to start it. If it starts and dies it's a fuel delivery issue (fuel filter changed lately?). If it won't start with the ether sprayed to it, it's a spark issue most likely. Could be several things there.
 






You need to isolate if it's a fuel OR a spark issue. I'd remove the intake tube and spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body, then try to start it. If it starts and dies it's a fuel delivery issue (fuel filter changed lately?). If it won't start with the ether sprayed to it, it's a spark issue most likely. Could be several things there.

I held the throttle to the floor in order to get it running. It worked and I know it not carbureted and that its efi, but I'm thinking I had to open the tb plate in order for it to start and it seemed to work. Tps or iac. Thanks
 






You need to isolate if it's a fuel OR a spark issue. I'd remove the intake tube and spray some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body, then try to start it. If it starts and dies it's a fuel delivery issue (fuel filter changed lately?). If it won't start with the ether sprayed to it, it's a spark issue most likely. Could be several things there.

it is getting to much fuel and flooding
 






Holding the pedal to the floor sends a signal from the ECU to turn off the injectors. If you don't want try adding fuel directly through the throttle body as I suggested, only other diagnostic I could suggest is to pull a spark plug, lay it near metal on the intake, can crank it and see if it's getting spark and how strong the spark is if so.
 






Same problem I had with my 2004 ford explorer a few days ago. It cranks but doesn't start.

At first it looked like the Fuel pump was bad, and I had it towed to the dealer.

Dealer did a diagnostic, and told me the rear hand timing chain guide broke. They have to remove the engine to replace it. Hopefully the valves pistons, and head is okay otherwise I'm looking at a $4000 repair. Right now its costing me $2000 in labor because I'm buying the parts online instead of paying 3x at the dealer.

Since they're gunna tear the engine apart I also ordered new gaskets, and asked them to replace all the timing chains and all the gaskets.
 






Same problem I had with my 2004 ford explorer a few days ago. It cranks but doesn't start.

At first it looked like the Fuel pump was bad, and I had it towed to the dealer.

Dealer did a diagnostic, and told me the rear hand timing chain guide broke. They have to remove the engine to replace it. Hopefully the valves pistons, and head is okay otherwise I'm looking at a $4000 repair. Right now its costing me $2000 in labor because I'm buying the parts online instead of paying 3x at the dealer.

Since they're gunna tear the engine apart I also ordered new gaskets, and asked them to replace all the timing chains and all the gaskets.

If your engine is the 4.0L V-6 as mine is, my engine did the same thing last year. Turned over, but never started up. Spark and fuel pump were good. Problem was rear (right bank) timing chain jumped out of time. The dealership told me most likely the valves were bent when this happened and it costs more in labor costs to tear down the broken down engine to repair it, than it does to simply get another engine and replace it. If you wind up in the 4k or more area to repair your old engine, you'd be better off getting a new, Ford remanufactured engine as I did for the 5k range, engine and labor incl. A brand new engine for 1k more in price, it just makes sense. Why rebuild only part of an old worn out motor when you can get a brand new motor for an extra 1k in price. The reman engines come with some other new external parts as well besides all new internal parts, water pump, harmonic balancer, valve covers, thermostat housing, spark plugs, etc and they come with a 3 year, unlimited mileage, parts and labor warranty. Something to consider.
 






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