Finding t case dilemna 1997 Control Trac

[Chris97Exploder]

Well I have been fighting this t case dilemna for some time now. I have a 97 control trac. About a month after I got it is started making a very bad ratcheting and clanging sound that gets so bad you don't want to move it an inch. So I bought a t case from a 99 but no speedo sensor on output of t case tailend so I swapped case halves (put old backend on new front end). This worked for about a month and then same thing so am figuring its the bearings, but also figuring that the housing is screwed too?

Short and sweet in 97 Ford went to the cup style front DS output flange. In 98 Ford moved the speedo sensor to the rear axle. I am finding it practically impossible to find a cost friendly 1997 t case, lowest I have found is $700. So can I put a 96 or earlier in with the corresponding driveshaft and will it work?

I have been driving it for about 5-6 months now with the front driveshaft out!

Thanks,
Chris

 

[schmoken]

My 96 had the dreaded 4405 transfer case too. It got to where the chain would slip, creating sweet ratcheting banging sounds. :thumbdwn:

I swapped in a 1354 manual shift unit from a Ranger. No regrets what so ever! Truly a bolt in operation, with the exception of the shifter (tough to find in these parts.)
I'm not sure about any changes in the 97's and up, but my old control track unit is just sitting in my garage with a worn out chain. Never did crack it open to look at things though.
If my junk will help you, surely we can work something out.

 

[gijoecam]

Someone on here did just the swap you mentioned: I think a search for 'Hybrid t-case' might be what you're looking for.... Wish I could remember who it was though....

-Joe

 

[Chris97Exploder]

It was IZWACK, thats where I initially did the changing halves and everything. When I took the other one apart the chain and gears looked good, if it was slipping there would be shavings and some visual wear right?

Visually the Control Trac T Case's look the same despite of the ID tags. I guess what makes me second guess is the different numbers on the cases which I figure must be Borg Warner's way of keeping track of Engineering CHanges, like they possible changed the hardness of a part, or some small dimensional change?

I need to check the thing out I guess (drive shaft play), but since the back half of my current t case is the original, and the problem reappeared after the swap of the front half of a 99 t case and its components it leads me to believe that something in the rear portion is the suspect ie bearings, the magnesium housing itself is wore?

I guess what I'm getting at is I want to put a low mileage control trac t case in and I can get pre 97 t cases very reasonably, and I'm sure I can get a driveshaft to fit it off ebay cheap, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but because of my previous encounter with failure I'm a little hesitant since I don't want any more problem! LOL

Pertaining to the 1354, I have seen those on ebay for dirt cheap. Is it correct that some are electric shift and some are manual. What would I have to do to make the electric one work. Rob the brains out of another explorer? I assume the manual one would be easier, just find the linkages etc (not so easy I hear) and then just zip tie the shift motor to the frame so the lights don't flash !

Thanks,
Chris

 

[gijoecam]

I wonder...... According to the schematics, the 96 and the 99 (and even the '01) still use the sensors from the transfer case to monitor the driveshaft speeds for the control trac. True, the speed sensor pickup for the speedo may have moved to the rear axle and is now fed to the cluster from the ABS module, but the speed sensors for the Control Trac system should still be in both cases, no?

If that's the case, I don't see why any of the second-gen cases wouldn't work in a later model (i.e. 97-01), but you never know. There may be a difference in the pick-up or the resistance of the speed sensors.... and of course, the drive flange (but that's miniscule.... any good driveline shop can fab up a custom front driveshaft for that)

Also, I remember reading not too long ago about someone that had found a company that would rebuild the cases.... it involved some machining, but the re-bushed some pieces, replaced some other pieces with heavy duty replacements, and the cost was very reasonable.... just wish I could remember who the heck it was?!!? (I think IZWack chimed in on it..... wish we could figure out what happened to him!!)

-Joe

 

[Chris97Exploder]

The company is Omega Machine and I believe its about $1000 or more to do it. If I was going to build a trail rig and needing a bullet proof driveline I'd do it, but I'm looking for the cheap & easy way out.
Omega Machine
The speedo input goes in on the tailshaft of the t case on 97 and older correct? On 98 and newer it was moved to the rear axle as you stated, but the input in the casting is not there to plug it in anymore. I'm not very technical as far as the modules etc go but since there isn't a location to plug it in you wouldn't have a speedo then right? I know that the inner components still are machined on the shaft to drive the sensor since when I swapped back halves the speedo still works since I used all the guts from the 99. I dunno, what would I have to do to put a 1354 electric shift in, would I need all the modules and switch out of that corresponding explorer?

I believe that say a 96 Control Trac t case would bolt in and hook up, I would just have to modify my d shaft or find one out of a 96. This option seems to be the easiest since I am finding it impossible to find a reasonable 97, on lady at an lkq place told me $850 for one with 90K on it!

 

[Blee1099]

According to one of Spas' co-workers. For the 4405 for a 97, you can only use the 97 to retain the VSS. Unfortunately the 98-01 does not have the VSS and the 95-96 won't work as well. I'd recommend trying to find someone to rebuild the 4405 or getting one thru www.car-part.com or get a manual 1354 and cut a hole in the floor.

 

[gijoecam]

Blee, why wouldn't a 96-96 work as well as a 97-01? Isn't it all the same internals (save for the speed sensor pick-up)? It uses the same Ball-Ramp clutch assembly, doesn't it?

I'm not sure on the exact years of the speedo pick-up.... Let me see what I can dig up. (I know my last post was about as helpful as a t-ts on a bull) My point was that I would think that the early cases with the speedo pick-up on the output shaft would work fine in the later trucks that have the pick-up in the diff, but not the other way around. There would be a wire or three and a connector/hole left over on the early t-case, but internally it should work the same (again, save for the front output shaft).

No? I dunno..... Just thinkin' out loud here....

I'm gonna go stare at the schematics again.... see if'n I can figger out the speedo pick-up stuff again.

-Joe

 

[Blee1099]

Blee, why wouldn't a 96-96 work as well as a 97-01? Isn't it all the same internals (save for the speed sensor pick-up)? It uses the same Ball-Ramp clutch assembly, doesn't it?

I'm not sure on the exact years of the speedo pick-up.... Let me see what I can dig up. (I know my last post was about as helpful as a t-ts on a bull) My point was that I would think that the early cases with the speedo pick-up on the output shaft would work fine in the later trucks that have the pick-up in the diff, but not the other way around. There would be a wire or three and a connector/hole left over on the early t-case, but internally it should work the same (again, save for the front output shaft).

No? I dunno..... Just thinkin' out loud here....

I'm gonna go stare at the schematics again.... see if'n I can figger out the speedo pick-up stuff again.

-Joe

From what I understand it will work however no speedometer if you use a 98-01 cause of the VSS issue. The 95-96 from what i understand has some difference internally hence the different part numbers. I'm not sure exactly, I haven't opened one up to compare it to my broken 4405 from my 97. I'm just going from what Port, Spas' co-worker told me.

 

[greg s]

Heres my two cents. I also have a 97 with control trac and the same problems. I ordered the rebuilt case halves (front and back) plus the shift cam and fork from Omega. That was around $300.00. I ordered the seal kit from Driveline which was about $30.00. Swapped all my parts out and it works perfectly. Omega remanufactures the shift cam and shifter to improve its performance, and rebushes the shift rail holes and the rear bearing bore. With these improvements I feel that I will not have any more problems. If you buy another used one it is just going to happen again.

 

[gijoecam]

OK, so let me make sure I've got it straight so far.... we're dealing with the t-case from a '97 that's giving you fits, right?

If so, I just stared at the schematics again for all the 96-01s. They moved the vehicle speed sensor from the transfer case in 95-97 to the rear diff on the 98-01s. I just printed out all three exploded diagrams (96, 97, and 98) to see what makes them tick.

WRT the front output shaft, it appears that for 96, the shaft is splined into a gear, and there's a bushing on the front half of the case around the output yoke shaft. The output yoke is bolted to the shaft.

In 97, when they changed the design, they also changed the gear that the output shaft engages from a 24-tooth to a 30-tooth internal spline, but the rest of the speed sensors appear to be there. soooooo.....

Looking at the 98 and the 96 side by side, they both show a speedometer plate isolator. it's on the back left side of the case, on the driver's side of the output shaft. Is that where the speed sensor connects in the 95-97?

Hmmm..... trying to e-mail the files to myself so I can post them later....

-Joe

 

[schmoken]

What got me looking into the 1354 swap (even before the chain went **** up) is the clutch setup in the 4405. The front end is driven with clutch packs controlled by the computer. Get the front end into a good bind like up against a small vertical stair step in 4-low and the clutches just end up slipping.
I removed the shift motor too and cut the wires that flash the 4x4 lights in the dash. However, the computer was still upset since it didn't see any input from the sensors in the tcase, so it wouldn't actuate the vacuum disconnect on the front axle.
An easy toggle switch install and now I control the front axle engagement (effectively allowing 2-low) plus I have an honest shift lever on the floor.

 

[Chris97Exploder]

There is what I believe to be a speed sensor below point where the output shaft is. Its a plug that flush with the surface. There is hole 90 degrees where the speedo inserts. On the 98 and newer that hole isn't there.