Finished the 60k maintenance on the 4.0....

[gspfunk]

Got the fuel filter changed a couple of weeks ago...the gas on the tank side was nasty black. It's been 30k since the last change, so I'm thinking 20k on the next one.

Also, 100k mile spark plugs my a$$. The driver side looked lean on all 3 cylinders and were gapped anywhere from .068-.078. The passenger side looked better, but the plugs were still gapped around .060-.066. I bought new Motorcraft wires after I figured out I was an idiot for trying the O'reilly house brand first. I knew better...not sure what I was thinking.

Anyway, gas mileage in the short them is up to a little over 17 as opposed to 14.5-15 in mixed driving (30/70 city/hwy). I think the 3.55's and towing pkg are really to blame for the lower mileage.

...just thought I'd share.

 

[daprez1963]

I am at 53K and just had my oil changed with Mobil1 Full Syn and will be back in around 58K. I will probably need to do a few things at that point getting close to the 60K. They recommended my power steering and brake fluids be flushed and also my fuel injector needs a little cleaning. I just switched out my air filter on the way back from the oil place. What else should I be looking to do with it at 60k? Plugs maybe???? and which are the best for my 2005 4.0 6cyclinder FF 4x4 exp.? Anything else? Thx

 

[gspfunk]

I went w/ the Autolite Platinums and Motorcraft wires. I wouldn't wait till 100k to do the plugs....my stock wires looked okay, but I replaced them anyway. If yours look good and don't show any signs of wear, cracking, corrosion, etc., it might be okay to leave them.

We've been running Mobil 1 Truck/SUV 5W-30 for a few changes now and love it. I noticed a difference in power and accelleration right away--it was a lot smoother to drive. We switched from Motorcraft Sythetic Blend (OEM).

BTW, I figured out that the maint. schedule that came w/ the car is generic and not explicitly for the X. I would eyeball your fluids and judge from there what may or may not need to be done as the rearend, tranny, and wheel bearings are lifetime (150k).

I'm going to flush the coolant here before too long b/c it's looking rough, but I wouldn't expect that everyone will need the same. We bought our X used and found out that it had overheated at some point before we got it.

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

You're getting decent MPG considering it's a 4500# vehicle with the aerodynamics of a loaf of bread.

You must have the light duty tow package if you have 3.55 gears. The Class III tow group (2" square receiver) gives you the 3.73 ratio. I know the 3.73s use a bit more fuel, but it's worth it...I raced a stock Explorer XLT (1 1/4" reciever, which means light duty towing group and 3.55 gears) from a stoplight, and evidently gears make a world of difference, because I got a good jump on him off the light, and stayed at least a carlength ahead of him to the next light.

Good choice on the plugs and wires...I wouldn't have recommended anything different. I went with the Autolite XP series iridium plugs just because they were new and looked interesting.

I've not been a big Mobil 1 fan for a while now. It definitely isn't the stuff it used to be. I've been running Schaeffer's oil and it's excellent. Not the most easy to come by, but an excellent oil at a reasonable price.

 

[gspfunk]

EB-- Why do you not like Mobil 1? I've had no issues w/ it in the 4 oil changes I've been using it. The X is running very well, in fact.

 

[Beastb15]

Got the fuel filter changed a couple of weeks ago...the gas on the tank side was nasty black. It's been 30k since the last change, so I'm thinking 20k on the next one.

Also, 100k mile spark plugs my a$$. The driver side looked lean on all 3 cylinders and were gapped anywhere from .068-.078. The passenger side looked better, but the plugs were still gapped around .060-.066. I bought new Motorcraft wires after I figured out I was an idiot for trying the O'reilly house brand first. I knew better...not sure what I was thinking.

Anyway, gas mileage in the short them is up to a little over 17 as opposed to 14.5-15 in mixed driving (30/70 city/hwy). I think the 3.55's and towing pkg are really to blame for the lower mileage.

...just thought I'd share.

what are the plugs supposed to be gapped at?

 

[gspfunk]

what are the plugs supposed to be gapped at?

On the 4.0L V6=.052-.056....not sure if the V8 is the same.

Look under the front of the hood on the passenger side...there's a sticker that will tell you.

BTW, for those that aren't in the know, NEVER use a FRAM oil filter. Go Motorcraft or better (Wix, Mobil 1, etc.).

 

[Beastb15]

On the 4.0L V6=.052-.056....not sure if the V8 is the same.

Look under the front of the hood on the passenger side...there's a sticker that will tell you.

BTW, for those that aren't in the know, NEVER use a FRAM oil filter. Go Motorcraft or better (Wix, Mobil 1, etc.).

Why is that? I have always used FRAM filters.

 

[gspfunk]

B/c they are the cheapest, most poorly made filter you can buy. Google "oil filter comparison" or something similar and look at the differences in filter media, anti-drainback valves, etc. The Motorcraft filters for the 4.0L are only $4 at Walmart and the last Wix I bought for the stang (90 LX 5.0) was $5-6....why would you not spend a little more for WAAAAAAYYYYYY better quality and motor longevity?

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

EB-- Why do you not like Mobil 1? I've had no issues w/ it in the 4 oil changes I've been using it. The X is running very well, in fact.

I don't like it for several reasons...It's been "dumbed down" from its original formula quite badly over the years. As they got a larger loyal fan base, they seemed to cheapen the formula without reducing the price. Now it's not even a real synthetic oil anymore! It's a Group III basestock which is actually a petroleum oil! Same as Castrol's Syntec, and Mobil 1 was the first to throw Castrol under the bus for calling a Group III a synthetic, now they're following suit.

It's a very thin oil for its viscosity number. The 5w30 is more of a thick 20 than a 30 weight.

It doesn't have a very robust additive package. There are more anti-wear additives such as moly, calcium, antimony, etc. in regular old Texaco Havoline than in M1.

Used oil analysis that I've viewed showed poor performance. There are lots of conventional oils and syn-blends that protect better.

Go visit www.bobistheoilguy.com forums sometime and read up...I learned more there in an hour than I knew my whole life previously.

 

[E.B. Cornburner]

Why is that? I have always used FRAM filters.

To put it as simple as possible...ANY other brand of filter on the market is better by far than a Fram. Cut one open sometime and compare it to even the cheapest store brand filter, and you'll be really surprised. Cardboard end caps on the element, string holding the element together, anti-drainback valves that don't even contact the baseplate, and the list goes on.

I made up an acronym for Fram...

F***ing Rebuild Another Motor

 

[gspfunk]

E.B.--thanks for the replies! I read a thread on my local stang forum about oils recently. A guy on the forum works for Shell (not sure what he does), but said he was actually most impressed w/ Quaker State's Q Horsepower than M1, RP, or Syntec.... I'm checking out the site you recommended ASAP.