Front hub/bearing compatability, 1996 AWD

[edselsouth1]

I am getting conflicting information regarding the compatability of the front hub/bearing assembly on my 1996 Explorer 5.0/AWD. Some of the parts stores say that 4WD and AWD do not use the front same hub/bearing assembly, while others say that they are the same. The vehicle is a 1996 Explorer w/ 5.0L, and AWD, w/ ABS. Want to be sure I can get the right part before I tear i down. Thanks, David.

 

[XLTrunner]

I buy most of my parts from Rockauto these days and their listings show the same bearing for both 4WD and AWD. Can't imagine why they would be different. FYI...I would recommend not going the cheap route with wheel bearings. This is one place where you will definitely get what you pay for. I stick with Timken as those are what were installed at the factory... and, the one I just installed on my '98 had "Made in U.S.A." on the bearing race.

 

[koda2000]

As far as I know they're all the same (4WD/AWD), but check the RockAuto on-line parts catalog.

Say's they're the same. Really no reason they'd be different.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...e/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636

 

[imp]

Only the 2WD vehicles have a different front wheel bearing. Using the 4WD set-up with no axle shaft requirement would be very expensive from an OEM standpoint. imp

EDIT: OTOH, I could be wrong.

 

[edselsouth1]

Thanks all for your replies. I'll look into the part from Rock Auto, although I usually buy my parts thru NAPA, or CarQuest.

 

[edselsouth1]

Thanks all for your replies. I'll look into the part from Rock Auto, although I usually buy my parts thru NAPA, or CarQuest.

Back again w/ another question on the bearing. Are the front hub bearings (sealed bearing) pressed into the hub, or must the entire bearing/hub be replaced as an assembly? Or, are the bearings of a race/bearing type, and the race is removable from the hub assembly after the bearing is removed? The vehicle is a 1996 Explorer AWD, 5.0L. Thanks.

 

[imp]

Back again w/ another question on the bearing. Are the front hub bearings (sealed bearing) pressed into the hub, or must the entire bearing/hub be replaced as an assembly? Or, are the bearings of a race/bearing type, and the race is removable from the hub assembly after the bearing is removed? The vehicle is a 1996 Explorer AWD, 5.0L. Thanks.

@edselsouth1 This being Gen 2, I must backpedal a bit, 'cause my experience is Gen 3, but think they are pretty much alike.

The rear wheel bearing hubs (independent suspension, Gen 3), do not apply to your Gen . 2. However, I believe the fronts are similar, or identical. Rears can be pressed out and only the bearing itself replaced. Fronts, not so. At least the factory OEM hubs. My 2004 front hub w/bearing assembly within, appeared to have had a factory-swaged lip over the bearing on the back side, making bearing removal from the hub all but impossible. Thus, bad bearing, replace hub with bearing already in it. This is for 3rd Gen. You have 2nd.

Sorry I can't help more. imp

 

[edselsouth1]

@edselsouth1 This being Gen 2, I must backpedal a bit, 'cause my experience is Gen 3, but think they are pretty much alike.

The rear wheel bearing hubs (independent suspension, Gen 3), do not apply to your Gen . 2. However, I believe the fronts are similar, or identical. Rears can be pressed out and only the bearing itself replaced. Fronts, not so. At least the factory OEM hubs. My 2004 front hub w/bearing assembly within, appeared to have had a factory-swaged lip over the bearing on the back side, making bearing removal from the hub all but impossible. Thus, bad bearing, replace hub with bearing already in it. This is for 3rd Gen. You have 2nd.

Sorry I can't help more. imp

imp..... I appreciate your reply and insight. I have replaced the front bearings alone on an earlier EB Explorer (1990) 4x4, but have not had occasion to work on a newer Explorer. I guess I'll remove the hub assembly tomorrow and have a look. Hopefully I can replace only the bearing and race, rather than the entire item. I have replaced the rear bearing on a later generation Explorer, and it wasn't too bad of a job. Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

On the 4x4/AWD Gen II's the entire hub assembly must be replaced. You cannot replace just the bearings in the assembly. The assembly is held to the steering knuckle by 3 bolts. You must first remove the CV axle nut so the bearing assembly can slide off the axle. You will also need to unplug the old ABS sensor and IIRC remove the brake caliper and it's bracket. An impact wrench is highly recommended.

 

[delexploder]

its a unit bearing, pull the wheel and breaks , undo the big nut on the half shaft , undo the bottom of the shock , then undo the through bolt that connects the knuckle to the upper control arm then its three bolts holding the unit to the knuckle , also the abs wire ,

 

[XLTrunner]

Changing out a front wheel hub is no big deal on these vehicles (way easier than the hub bearing I just changed out on my '04 Merc Sable). As stated...remove the spindle nut, brakes and rotor and access the three 15 mm bolts on the backside to loosen it. Unplug the ABS connector and It then slides off the front of the spindle (sometimes requires a little persuasion with a rubber mallet). Not sure what purpose removing the lower shock bolts and upper arm pinch bolt does for you for ease of removal, though.

 

[delexploder]

just gives more working room, especially if you need to smack it with a bfh to break it loose

 

[edselsouth1]

just gives more working room, especially if you need to smack it with a bfh to break it loose

Thanks again to all for your replies and instructions on removal. I removed the bearing/hub assembly yesterday evening. Took about an hour start to finish. No problems. I have the new part ordered, and should have it in a few days. (I'm going to fiddle w/ the old bearing assembly to see how it is put in place (pressed) and see if it is feasible to get a new bearing and re-assemble to keep as a spare for when ..not if..the other side gives up. Bearings/seals are available separately for cheap).

 

[edselsouth1]

Thanks again to all for your replies and instructions on removal. I removed the bearing/hub assembly yesterday evening. Took about an hour start to finish. No problems. I have the new part ordered, and should have it in a few days. (I'm going to fiddle w/ the old bearing assembly to see how it is put in place (pressed) and see if it is feasible to get a new bearing and re-assemble to keep as a spare for when ..not if..the other side gives up. Bearings/seals are available separately for cheap).

I replaced the hub/bearing assembly last evening. Probably 45 minutes in total time. Going to replace the passenger side in a week or so. Can't hear it making a noise, but with same mileage as the other front, it's a good preventative move. then on to the rears.

 

[david4451]

Please let everyone know if you get the old hub/bearing apart, like you I'd be interested in repairing my old front hubs if it is a possibility.

 

[koda2000]

I replaced the hub/bearing assembly last evening. Probably 45 minutes in total time. Going to replace the passenger side in a week or so. Can't hear it making a noise, but with same mileage as the other front, it's a good preventative move. then on to the rears.

You'll need to remove the rear axles to change the rear bearings. You'll also need a special tool and slide hammer to remove the old bearings and a bearing installer tool to install the new bearings and seals. You can borrow these tools from most auto parts stores.

As far as removing the rear axles, if you a limited slip rear diff, removing and reinstalling the "S" spring can be a bit challenging (find yourself a you-tube video if you've never done it). A pair of thin-nose vise grips works pretty well to compress the spring. You should also inspect the clutch plates while you're in there, as they wear out with high miles. Compared to replacing the front bearings, the rears are a lot more work, but not particularly complicated. Permatex Ultra Black RTV works great for resealing the diff cover (no gasket required) just follow the instructions on the tube for a leak-free seal.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

If it was mine, I'd leave the rears alone, if your rear end isn't making noise, I'd just do a fluid change if it hasn't been done, and the limited slip additive if required. I have two of these, one in a 99 with 154K, and one with 193K, and neither have ever made noise, and I consider them great axles for the money.