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Fuel filter replace gone bad

Lazzman

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 27, 2005
Messages
1,395
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5
City, State
Massachusetts
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Sport 4wd- V6 Sohc
After a fuel filler neck replace, I was changing the inline fuel filter on my 1998 Explorer v6, sohc this afternoon and it was really tough to get off. I eventually was able to get it off and it was quite the struggle using the lisle fuel line tool.

The front metal quick connect fuel line that goes to the engine was exceptionally hard to get off and would not go back on snuggly, but I did manage to get it back on the filter and lock it in place.

Once I got the new Mann fuel filter connected I started the engine to test, I notice Niagra falls coming from the fuel filter quick connect.

I suspect the after the filter quick connect is damaged and needs to be replaced. The questions is how do I go about doing this?? I am sure it is a common problem.

This is the metal quick connect not the plastic one, I also noticed that the little black O-ring seal that goes inside the metal quick connect was broken as well, so that could also be the problem.

Anyhelp is greatly appreciated :D
 



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Most all the parts stores carry the replacement connect ends (about a 4" assembly) just cut n paste.

Bill
 






Same thing happened to me, I had the metal quick connect break apart, most parts stores don't have them or even know what you are talking about.

In my case, it was the rear connection (towards the fuel tank) that was bad. I ended up cutting the fuel line off with a tubing cutter and used a compression fitting to install a new section of nylon line with a new plastic quick connect. In other words, a huge pain.

In your case, you may be better off replacing that section of line that runs up to the enigne.
 






Thanks for the info guys

I new this would be a ***** when gas was leaking all over my face and in my hair, not a fun job. Ford always seems to come up with some interesting designs for their parts.

My truck has the metal quick connect clamps not the plastic one's, I cannot find a replacement from Doorman for the metal ones or at Autozone.

Thinking about just cutting it off and putting in a 3" section of high pressure 3/8 fuel hose with double hose clamps on either end.
 






Same thing happened to me, I had the metal quick connect break apart, most parts stores don't have them or even know what you are talking about.

Huh. Must be a regional thing. The local NAPA has a whole end cap with all the quick connect repair fittings clips etc for all makes and years. Even have the replacement spring cages and O-rings that fit inside.

Bill
 






Do they have them behind the counter or are they on a rack somewhere in Napa?

I live in Massachusetts and did not check Napa because I do not know exactly what to ask for and did not see replacement metal ford quick disconects on any web sites, not even dorman.

Im about to get this towed to my mechanic but would love to repair it myself if possible, money is really tight right now :thumbsup:
 












AutoZone and O'reilly's should have a lot of this stuff in stock. it is kept in the back where you can't see it. if the dummy at the parts counter doesn't know what you're talking about, ask to talk to the manager.
 






Huh. Must be a regional thing. The local NAPA has a whole end cap with all the quick connect repair fittings clips etc for all makes and years. Even have the replacement spring cages and O-rings that fit inside.

Bill

They had all kinds of repair lines and metal clips but none that matched my old one. I remember searching pretty extensively without any luck.

I think the repair line I ended up using was this one, or something similar: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...uel-Line-Repair-Kit/_/R-NDP7304995_0157540204

Note that the fuel filter will attach to a metal quick disconnect or a plastic one, it doesn't matter. I got a barbed compression fitting to attach the nylon line to the existing metal line.

I don't see why you couldn't use something like this and double-clamp a standard hose over it, would be much easier:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-12...s_auto_16?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EFSH9A8Y90HZDX0145K
 






In order to use the Doorman part I would just cut off the old metal quick connect and double hose clamp it to the Nylon fuel line? Would the plastic end just snap into the 3/8 fuel filter end

Thanks for the all information and thank you Bill for posting the link to Napa link. I need to fix this truck badly.

I believe the fuel line is 3/8 but just wanted to double check??
 






Please be aware! Using hose as a repair is acceptable only if certain important conditions are met. First ONLY hose marked SAE 30R9 should be used. 30R7 or other "fuel/emissions" hose is not designed for the high pressure encountered in f.i. applications.

Second, the filters have a little "bump", a lip, behind which tiny spring fingers within the disconnect grip the tubing and prevent separation. Install your hose OVER that lip, with a clamp between the lip and filter can. Then the hose cannot slip off.

Third, the cut off tubing entering the other end of the hose has no safety means to prevent slipping off. A high pressure fuel leak beneath the vehicle while being driven is almost a certain recipe for disaster. A slight flare of the end of the tube, sharp edge sanded round, will serve similarly to the bump on the filter tube. The flare should not be so large as to damage the hose inner tube, about 1/32" high all around is plenty. imp
 






It's not ideal to have a hose clamped directly to a metal fuel line with no flare, but a good double clamp should keep it secure.

Definitely preferable to flare the tube, or use a compression fitting. Personally I've had terrible luck with flaring tools but the compression fitting is easy enough.
 






It's not ideal to have a hose clamped directly to a metal fuel line with no flare, but a good double clamp should keep it secure.
Definitely preferable to flare the tube, or use a compression fitting. Personally I've had terrible luck with flaring tools but the compression fitting is easy enough.

I would never rely just on the compression clamps for a fuel line. Even a double one.

I wonder if the flare tool can be rented?
 






Always use EFI clamps on fuel lines, not the worm or spring types.
 






I would never rely just on the compression clamps for a fuel line. Even a double one.

I wonder if the flare tool can be rented?

the flare tool can be borrowed/rented, but it's almost impossible to get high-pressure fuel line to stretch enough to fit over a flare due to the plastic liner. i realize you're talking about compression clamps, but on the other hand, compression fittings are used all the time in house plumbing and typical house water pressure is quite a bit higher than 65 psi. you should never use compression fittings for brake lines though.
 












the flare tool can be borrowed/rented, but it's almost impossible to get high-pressure fuel line to stretch enough to fit over a flare due to the plastic liner. i realize you're talking about compression clamps, but on the other hand, compression fittings are used all the time in house plumbing and typical house water pressure is quite a bit higher than 65 psi. you should never use compression fittings for brake lines though.

Compression fittings are nice to work with, since flaring is eliminated. This is especially helpful when the line involved is either inaccessible to the flaring tool. But, compression fittings have been known to leak, or slip apart. Such trouble is less likely with steel tubing as opposed to softer materials like copper or aluminum. Case in point: Last 1/4" compression fittings I picked up at ACE Hardware had the beads made with a swage in order to keep them from falling out of the unassembled fitting. Half these little devils leaked, for reasons unknown. The hole in their nut is slightly larger than tube diameter, to accommodate the swaged feature, which might explain the problems I had. imp
 






Imp those are special clamps for electronic fuel injection rubber lines, a bit sturdier and specific to smaller diameters.
 






Imp those are special clamps for electronic fuel injection rubber lines, a bit sturdier and specific to smaller diameters.

Thank you, Doc! Are they constructed differently than the usual worm gears? I have seen the Ford factory supplied spring steel "spreader clamps" like my '96 F-150 had for radiator hoses, hold and work better than worm gears. I still hate them, though! imp
 



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Well this turned out to be an epic fail. After spending about $50 on parts and about 3hrs labor over a few days I finaly found out that you cannot cut n paste into a Nylon fuel line. My plan was to use a 5/16" to 1/4" from fuel line to filter but the flair in the 1/4" side of the brass coupler, kept splitting the nylon plastic fuel line apart. Guess it would have been better non flared but than your risking the connection slipping off.

This is not something to take chances with as the fuel line is direclty parallel to the hot exhaust pipes and cats. Its going to my mechanic on Monday to have a new connector and nylon fuel line crimped on.

To be specific my '98 sport had a 5/16" metal quick connect to the fuel filter and the actual nylon/plastic fuel line was 1/4"- needed to clarify, as there were a bunch of different answers- as to size and material.

The issue was the innerds of the quick connect metal clamp rusted to the fuel filter and when I yanked it hard it pulled all of the guts out of the quick connector leaving the innerds fused to the fuel filter outlet connector. There was no longer a water tight seal between the fuel line and filter, it was a gusher.

Even though I double clamped everything and used fuel injection hose, I was still a bit nervous that the clamps wouldn't hold even if I had suceeded. Worst thing is to have a truck on fire driving down the road & finding out the hard way.
 






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