Got timing cover off and didnt find a bad tensioner. Pics and vid inside. need advise

[2000StreetRod]

valve springs cause slack

. . . The first couple of starts and idles were quiet with minimal to no noise. Then after i shut it down a few times, i got it to start rattling. it will do it from start, idle, and all rpms. I used the stetheoscope and narrowed it to the drivers side front valve part of the valve cover. It was loudest there. you coiuld here a tad bit of noise on the passenger side, but it was only the noise vibrating over to there. The last video shows chain slack when i rotate the engine. I beleive i made an error while talking in the last video. I was rotating the clutch fan bolt at the water pump. So when im saying that im rotating the engine clockwise, I wasnt doing it at the crank but actually i was rotating it at the water pump, which would be the opposite way. The last video shows the valve cover open and the tensioner moving in and out causing slack. Is this normal? I owe you guys big time for your time and patience. . .

The front timing chain rotates in the same direction as the crankshaft and jackshaft (clockwise).

Rotating the chain by hand and watching the slack is deceiving because of the valve springs. The force from the springs will cause the camshaft to rotate more than that exerted by the traction of the jackshaft resulting in intermittent slack on the traction side.

The upper chain tensioner contains a spring that exerts some tension on the slack side. The spring is not very strong. There is a small opening in the tensioner piston that exerts oil pressurized force against the chain after engine startup.

I couldn't tell much from the audio of the rattle in the video. If you think the rattle is coming from the front driver side then you're probably right. The upper sections of the guide assembly look intact in the video.

On my startup rattle the sound also seemed to be coming from the front driver side and the rear passenger side but I could not be certain. My left guide assembly and tensioner were visually in pretty good shape. The only thing I found wrong in the front was there was no force exerted on the primary chain by the tensioner even though it was intact. I doubt that replacing the upper tensioner is going to make any difference in your audible problem.

I am hesitant to make any suggestions because of the cost and the amount of work involved but so far the only visible abnormality I see is the missing end of the primary tensioner.

Please confirm that the only timing chain sprocket that you have removed or loosened is the balance shaft sprocket. If so, then the timing of the valves should not have changed.

 

[03silversvt]

im really appreciate you guys chiming in on my thread to help me out. I just went out to the garage and pulled he tensioner out and that pulled that little butt plug next to it as well. The tensioner was really torqued in there. Whatever robot built my engine must have been malfunctioning. I used a 2 foot breaker bar on my 1 1/16 wrench with the wrench bending. There is something in the kit that i shove in the smaller hole right? there is nothing in tere now. All my valves are closed and i check for loose rockers. none were loose. Heres a little video clip of my tensioner. as i press it in, it binds a tad as you can hear. Ill order that kit you guys posted. I dont know what else it could be at this point. You guys heard the videos and sure does sound like a chain. It would also explain why the noise will not be there sometimes. Almost seems like the tensioner will hold pressure every now and then. What other part of the engine would allow for such a hanis noise to come and go right?

heres the vid
http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q314/03silversvt/?action=view&current=tensioner.flv

 

[03silversvt]

The front timing chain rotates in the same direction as the crankshaft and jackshaft (clockwise).

Rotating the chain by hand and watching the slack is deceiving because of the valve springs. The force from the springs will cause the camshaft to rotate more than that exerted by the traction of the jackshaft resulting in intermittent slack on the traction side.

The upper chain tensioner contains a spring that exerts some tension on the slack side. The spring is not very strong. There is a small opening in the tensioner piston that exerts oil pressurized force against the chain after engine startup.

I couldn't tell much from the audio of the rattle in the video. If you think the rattle is coming from the front driver side then you're probably right. The upper sections of the guide assembly look intact in the video.

On my startup rattle the sound also seemed to be coming from the front driver side and the rear passenger side but i could not be certain. My left guide assembly and tensioner was in pretty good shape. The only thing I found wrong in the front was there was no force exerted on the primary chain by the tensioner even though it was intact. I doubt that replacing the upper tensioner is going to make any difference in your audible problem.

I am hesitant to make any suggestions because of the cost and the amount of work involved but so far the only visible abnormality i see is the missing end of the primary tensioner.

Please confirm that the only timing chain sprocket that you have removed or loosened is the balance shaft sprocket. If so, then the timing of the valves should not have changed.

yeah man. no sprokects were removed. This noise isnt new. it was there before hand and i thought that replacing that balance shaft guide was gonna clear this up. there was actually some noise cleared up from replacing the guide

 

[2000StreetRod]

Old tensioner?

I only got a glimpse of the entire tensioner in the video but it looks like you still have the old style. The new style has about two inches protruding above the hex. The photo below shows the 00M12 kit that includes the upper front tensioner.

You'll need a 27mm deep well socket to install it.

 

[bluestream1]

FWIW, I recently had my intake manifold off to get at my Primary chain (jackshaft) to replace the tensioner. The 00M12 program had been done in 2001, but I still got the rattle at start-up. I thought I may as well replace the left side chain tensioner as well, so I bought the kit above, but when I compared the new tensioner to the old, the spring pressure was the same. In fact the old one seemed a bit stronger so I left it in. The "swizzle stick" check rod had been installed, and I wiped it clean and re-installed it. The o-rings on the other hand apeared to have not been changed. The ones tha were there were gray, and the kit had blue o-rings. I don't think I had any leaks, but I did replace the old with the new style. The blue ones were a bit wider, as you can see in this pic. (sorry, its a bit blurry)

 

[BobWiersema]

Primary Chain

I started a new thread with the Primary Timing Chain Service Procedure files that bluestream1 sent me. Just in case you need them. Hopefully not.

The link

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273507

 

[03silversvt]

would you agree that my truck soundsexactly like this guys 4.0l? If you read the info on this clip, it sounds that the guy just had a bad passenger side tensioner and replaced it in 10 minutes and all is good. except in my case, its on the drivers side. I dont know, im gonna go aheadand replace that tensioner and see what happens. If it doesnt fix it, ill just have to deal with it until she blows. Like i said, its just a second vehicle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5mLp1lpQKk

 

[2000StreetRod]

A good plan

would you agree that my truck soundsexactly like this guys 4.0l? If you read the info on this clip, it sounds that the guy just had a bad passenger side tensioner and replaced it in 10 minutes and all is good. except in my case, its on the drivers side. I dont know, im gonna go aheadand replace that tensioner and see what happens. If it doesnt fix it, ill just have to deal with it until she blows. Like i said, its just a second vehicle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5mLp1lpQKk

That's pretty much what mine sounded like on startup. It usually only lasted a few seconds which made it more difficult to locate.

I think that replacing your upper front tensioner is a good plan since you still have the old design. It's too bad that you have to pull the upper intake manifold to do it.

 

[03silversvt]

That's pretty much what mine sounded like on startup. It usually only lasted a few seconds which made it more difficult to locate.

I think that replacing your upper front tensioner is a good plan since you still have the old design. It's too bad that you have to pull the upper intake manifold to do it.

yeah, its all done and ready to be put in. Just waitin to hear back from this ford parts guy from another website. 10% off for registered users. either way, i should have the part in and installed by midweek. I will let you guys know the outcome asap. Hopefully this will be all resolved and this thread could be of some help to someone else in the future.
I have a question, the long tube peice in that kit, do i just shove that in the hole and plug it back up? Also, I do know that the lower intake gasket was replaced 4 years ago. That was the only part replaced

 

[2000StreetRod]

oil restrictor

. . . I have a question, the long tube peice in that kit, do i just shove that in the hole and plug it back up? Also, I do know that the lower intake gasket was replaced 4 years ago. That was the only part replaced

If you're referring to the long thin plastic thing (oil restrictor) then you're correct. The kit includes a replacement galley plug with sealant coated threads.

Some members have replaced just their upper intake gaskets to solve a lean condition. Others have had to also replace their lower intake manifold gaskets. The gaskets are cheap and I suggest that you replace the upper gaskets.

You may want to see my thread:Starting my 00M12 Installation

 

[03silversvt]

sweet thanks man

 

[BobWiersema]

ford parts guy from another website.

Really? Cheating on us? Really?

I am shocked .

Just kidding, :

 

[03silversvt]

eh, its a mustang website that i wouldnt recommend. Bunch of ignorance on that site. I just take advantage of the discounts on ford parts for members. Theres a ford parts employee on there. I think i may go order the part local today so i can get it faster

 

[03silversvt]

SUCCESS!!!

Got the 00M12 recall kit installed and started her up and its as quiet as a mouse. It as weird becuase I wasnt ready for this. As long as I have had the truck it has always had obnoxious rattles. I let it idle for a while, reved it a few times and shut it down and restarted it several times. The sound is gone. Thank to you guys for all your help. Next pay day, i will donate to the site and i hope this thread helps others in the future. My noise was due to both the balance shaft tensioner and the left head tensioner. Heres a video of how it sounds now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLJcfTdY3KM

 

[BobWiersema]

Nice, glade to here its fixed. Did you consider replacing the right had side or you going to wait for it to start making noise?

By the way, looks like you need gas.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

Thanks for posting the results. I wish more forum users would pay the very reasonable cost for full membership. The forum provides a valuable service but it takes money to keep it going.

 

[03silversvt]

Nice, glade to here its fixed. Did you consider replacing the right had side or you going to wait for it to start making noise?

By the way, looks like you need gas.

lol, yeah i need gas as usual. ill go ahead and replace the right side tensioner as well this summer. Im up in the air about inspecting the primary tensioner aagian. we will see

Thanks for posting the results. I wish more forum users would pay the very reasonable cost for full membership. The forum provides a valuable service but it takes money to keep it going.