Photos Hard brake line - How difficult is it to fix?

[Shingun]

My brake line blew open due to rust, I haven't checked which one it is but it's dripping between the ABS module and the first bend near the exhaust header.

I have the tools to double flare it but I'm wondering what I'm getting myself into. The shop gave me a rough 200-400$ estimate since he didn't have any information about my ride. If it's a piece of cake, I'll just do it myself. However, I have no clue what I'm doing as far as fishing out brake lines.

Are they generally accessible? I was thinking of unbolting from the ABS module lower it and cut it off, then add a joint between both. Not sure how realistic that is. In the best scenario, I pull it out and just replace the rusted part with the kit. Easier said than done?

 

[mountaineer2004]

I've lost brakes on 3 separate occasions, one time my line went bad at this exact location too.

Since the part was no longer available from Ford, my mechanic replaced it with standard brake line and put in 2 or 3 twirls to take into account the pressure from the ABS pump.

For liability reasons alone, I won't do work on brake lines.

 

[Shingun]

I've lost brakes on 3 separate occasions, one time my line went bad at this exact location too.

Since the part was no longer available from Ford, my mechanic replaced it with standard brake line and put in 2 or 3 twirls to take into account the pressure from the ABS pump.

For liability reasons alone, I won't do work on brake lines.

It is my only winter car so I'll have to figure something out before next week.

 

[J_C]

I don't like to patch lines, figuring there's other spots that are bad too, just not leaking yet, plus it can be tricky to flare rusted line so I just replace entire runs at a time from the ABS controller to the wheel cylinder.

How hard that is, depends on which wheel. The front wheel on the opposite side of the ABS controller will be the hardest, on the front wheel near it, probably a piece of cake, and the run(s) to the rear, not hard but more work to lay line out, figure out length, get access to frame clips to secure it (or wire tie to existing line that's left in).

I'd use bulk copper nickel replacement line, which is highly rust resistant like stainless, but much easier to bend and flare than any other available brake line material. You likely won't even need a bending tool to use it, maybe a piece of pipe or jack handle for a bend or two if you want it looking fancy.