Help - Engine Mounting Bracket Bolts Sheared Off

[Sdresser]

Good morning everyone,

I am in dire need of some help. My engine started vibrating the chassis drastically after a large popping/cracking sound could be heard. I ordered a new set of Engine/Trans/Torque Mounts to replace them all. Once the parts came in, I got to work, only to find that the Engine Mount Support Bracket that the Top Motor Mount attaches to, is no longer attached to the engine, and that all three bolts for it had sheared off in the engine block.

I have two questions:

1: What is the part number for these sheared bolts (capscrews)?

2: What is the best way to extract these broken bolts without removing the engine or dropping the subframe?

I have attached some pictures for reference. Also, running a 3.5 Ecoboost AWD setup.

 

[peterk9]

This is the site I use to find part numbers. Genuine Ford Parts Dealer Online | Levittown Ford Parts
They are a forum vendor and offer members a discount. Coupon Codes for Forum Members
Unfortunately, that is all the help I can provide on this topic. Good luck and please keep us updated as I don't believe this has happened before.

Peter

 

[Ironworker40]

Ridgid 35585 1/4" - 1/2" Model 10 Screw Extractor Set w/ Pre-Formed Plastic Box | eBay

Model RIDG 35585. Ridgid 35585 Specifications Ridgid 35585 Features • No. 10 set contains 20 precision tools one each of Extractor Nos. 1 to 5 inclusive with turnuts, drills No. 1 to 5 inclusive, and drill guides Nos. 921 to 1821 inclusive.

www.ebay.com

This is my go to tool for removing broken bolts. It almost always works. If it don't then just drill larger to just under tap size and use a tap. Kroll or PB blaster penetrant is your friend. It doesn't look like there is a lot of room you need to be able to get straight on in line with the bolts to drill straight and thru absolute the center of the bolt. A right angle drill or long bits thru wheel wheel may work. I did not look at mine to see were this was as it is dark now. You can try a left hand drill bit first and they may back right out due to the fact that they sheared off from being loose and should not be bottomed in the holes. Get quality bits and center punches. There are drill guides in that kit to get you on center. Take your time and go slow.

 

[Ironworker40]

Amazon product ASIN B09XCLPF4NI just found this it is smaller that any right angle drill it may work. Get stubby drill bits also.

 

[peterk9]

Amazon product ASIN B09XCLPF4NI just found this it is smaller that any right angle drill it may work. Get stubby drill bits also.

 

[Ironworker40]

Pete, It look like he is going to need a high angle drill. I found this adapter which is smaller than any right angle drill I have seen

 

[peterk9]

It's just that I don't see a picture of the item. Just a little cloud. My phone also doesn't show it.

Peter

 

[Ironworker40]

It's a link you can click on it. Here is a pic

 

[peterk9]

Okay, now I see it. The previous post did not appear to have a working link. It just had a bunch of little clouds like you would see in a cartoon strip when a character is thinking.

Peter

 

[mguy13sport]

That is a really tricky situation because there is no room to get a drill bit in there. You will more than likely need to drop the engine lower down or jack it up above the frame rail depending on the bolt. You can lower the engine quite a bit with the driver mount still attached. I had to do that when I was replacing the water pump.

A reverse drill bit will get the bolts out if they are not super stuck. I had a valve cover bolt break off inside the head and I was able to use a reverse bit to extract it out.

Do NOT put the jack under the oil pan. Use a block of wood between the jack and engine if you need to raise or lower it.