How can I tell if the P0174 code is intake gaskets or oxy sensor? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How can I tell if the P0174 code is intake gaskets or oxy sensor?

mizestang

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City, State
Forest Lake, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Sport 3.5 e
I only get p0174...so do you think its a bank 2 sensor? 2000 Explorer sport...SOHC V6.
I reset ECM, CE light went away for a good 4 days, then came back. Rough idle etc... Any suggestions
 



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Ox sensors are good for around 120K, More than likely you have an intake manifold gasket leak on the left side. Intake O-rings (upper and lower) dry up, shrink and crack on the SOHC V6's. Especially common on the Job 1 engines.
 






O2 sensors have never been changed that I know of. Had a used engine put in about 5 years ago...I suppose I'll have to scan it to see the trims if I suspect the 02, but that's 100.00 just to diagnose. Probably cheaper to try the gaskets... ugh... Thanks for the help,.
 






O2 sensors have never been changed that I know of. Had a used engine put in about 5 years ago...I suppose I'll have to scan it to see the trims if I suspect the 02, but that's 100.00 just to diagnose. Probably cheaper to try the gaskets... ugh... Thanks for the help,.

I'd do the upper and lower intake O-ring gaskets. It's very likely that's your problem. They can cause hard starting, rough idle and turn on the CEL, especially when it's cold outside. The idle then tends to smooth out after the engine gets up to normal operating temp. If you had P0171 and P0174 it would more likely be you had a vacuum leak elsewhere, which was effecting both banks, but with just P0174 it's more likely the intake gaskets on the driver's side are leaking. This is probably the most common problem on the Job 1 SOHC (other than timing chain issues). The Job 2 SOHC used a one piece intake manifold and much thicker O-rings. They also eliminated 2 intake manifold bolts (going from 6 to 4) on the Job 2 intake.
 






Will do. Thanks for the tips.
 






If it idles rough before it has warmed up that is a pretty sure sign it isn't an O2 sensor because it doesn't use O2 sensor readings yet in that cold, open loop mode.
 






Yeah, that cold start/idle issue is a pretty solid indicator of bad intake manifold gaskets...

Dear Ronev,

See if the following synopsis of temperature dependent engine conditions pertain to your vehicle:

COLD START – ENGINE NOT OPERATED OVERNIGHT – 40 DEGREE AMBIENT:

Upon cranking engine starts right up and the idle jumps to about 2K. Then it starts idling back to about 500 rpm then it jumps down to about 300 rpm and almost dies and then it settles down to a rough idle. This process lasts approx 15-30 seconds.

COLD START – ENGINE NOT OPERATED OVERNIGHT – 30 DEGREE AMBIENT:

Upon cranking engine starts right up and the idle jumps to about 2K. Then it starts idling back to about 500 rpm then it jumps down to about 300 rpm and almost dies and then it returns to about 2K and the cycle then repeats. This process lasts approx 2 to 3 minutes before settling down to a rough idle.

COLD START – ENGINE NOT OPERATED OVERNIGHT – 20 DEGREE AMBIENT:

Upon cranking engine starts right up and the idle jumps to about 2K. Then it starts idling back to about 500 rpm then it jumps down to about 300 rpm and almost dies. At this ambient temperature the engine acts like it is running on 4 cylinders; it sounds like a Harley V-Twin and the truck shakes violently (approximately 4 to 6 inches of side to side movement measured at the roof). It returns to about 2K and the cycle then repeats. This process lasts approx 10 to 15 minutes before settling down to a rough idle.

WARM START – ENGINE OPERATED WITHIN LAST 2 TO 3 HOURS – ANY DEGREE AMBIENT.

ALSO - COLD START – ENGINE NOT OPERATED OVERNIGHT – ANY TEMPERATURE ABOVE APPROXIMATELY 40 DEGREE AMBIENT:

Occasional extended cranking to start. Rough idle.




If any of the above sounds familiar you can tend towards the lower intake o-rings leaking. As to your recent issue of an idling issue once engine has reached normal operating range; i would respectfully suggest repair of the original fault condition (o-rings change out) before pursuing and further troubleshooting in this area. Is it possible for the o-rings cause complete idle failure? Yes. Likely? No.



To ensure your sense of humor remains: I recently stumpled upon a rather interesting diagnosis by a Ford Dealership (read "group of male reproductive genitalia") upon an "x', with 56k onboard and similar symptoms to yours and the above. The above captioned "group" decided the customer may best be "serviced" with a mere $700 being invested with them, for a work scope that included intake manifolds removal (as with o-rings change out), allowing them access to the rear side of the intake valves, of which they were to clean. Apparently, according to their diagnosis, the rear side of the intake valves were "choked" with carbon build up. Said build-up was responsible for soaking-up such voluminous quanties of fuel/air mixture that engine supply deprivation was the route cause of all ills.


Anyway, change your o-rings and check out your IAC isn't sticking (soak the mechanical mechanism in carb cleaner (ensure the cylindrical shaped solenoid is not).
 






If it idles rough before it has warmed up that is a pretty sure sign it isn't an O2 sensor because it doesn't use O2 sensor readings yet in that cold, open loop mode.
@J_C
This is why the O2 sensors have heaters built-in, to greatly shorten open-loop time, heat 'em up more quickly than exhaust gas flow. imp
 






@J_C
This is why the O2 sensors have heaters built-in, to greatly shorten open-loop time, heat 'em up more quickly than exhaust gas flow. imp

The heated ones also last twice as long as the old style non-heated O2 sensors.
 






at first start in the morning, it idles perfect. It's after warm up, then restarting and/or sitting is when the rough idle and surging rpms..
 






Okay, I replaced both upper and lower gaskets with new Fel Pro gaskets. Ran good for about 20 minutes and after I come to a stop, the engine surges badly then dies. Startup is fine. While it was running, sprayed brake cleaner all around upper intake, lower intake, all hoses etc,, no idle change. I'm pretty sure its not a vacuum leak, but not sure.What else can I check? CE back on.
 












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