How do you replace the rear brake pads on a stock 2000 explorer?

[cincydru]

2000 explorer 4wd xls

replacing the brake pads, first time doing the rear.

are there any tools needed for this job that are out of the ordinary? any quick tips to change them fast?

i would appreciate any tips / hints etc..

thanks guys!

 

[73stallion]

you'll need a caliper compressor for rear anti lock brakes. the caliper piston needs to turn while compressing, otherwise it'll destroy a caliper. harbor freight has them cheap.

 

[96eb96]

you'll need a caliper compressor for rear anti lock brakes. the caliper piston needs to turn while compressing, otherwise it'll destroy a caliper. harbor freight has them cheap.

This is not the case on the explorer, since the e brake is a drum/shoe setup. You just use a simple C clamp and your old brake pad. Very simple caliper.

Check that the pins slide nicely in the rubber boots, and the boots are intact. If there is any sticking or binding, service it and use synthetic brake grease. Otherwise leave them alone.

 

[BubbaFL]

Piece of cake - no special tools required for the rear pads.

You might think about doing the rear e-brake shoes while you're back there. I ended up going in twice in a month; my e-brake shoes disintegrated a couple weeks after I did the rear pads.

If you're going to do the e-brake shoes, you'll need a three jaw puller to get the rear rotor off. Also, you'll need the puller if you're changing the rotors or taking them to be resurfaced. I borrow one from the local autozone when I need to do that job.

 

[cincydru]

so basically its just like doing the front? the rear brake pads look like it has a claw looking attachment on the back of the pad?

 

[BubbaFL]

so basically its just like doing the front? the rear brake pads look like it has a claw looking attachment on the back of the pad?

Yeah, the claw thing just kind of pops in to the caliper piston and holds the pad in place.

 

[sjr033]

Piece of cake - no special tools required for the rear pads.

You might think about doing the rear e-brake shoes while you're back there. I ended up going in twice in a month; my e-brake shoes disintegrated a couple weeks after I did the rear pads.

If you're going to do the e-brake shoes, you'll need a three jaw puller to get the rear rotor off. Also, you'll need the puller if you're changing the rotors or taking them to be resurfaced. I borrow one from the local autozone when I need to do that job.

I just did the rear brakes and did not use a puller. There is an adjustment for the e-break on the inside that I just backed off. And the disk came off, no problems.

 

[96eb96]

I just did the rear brakes and did not use a puller. There is an adjustment for the e-break on the inside that I just backed off. And the disk came off, no problems.

You are right, but I will add the rotors could be rusted to the hub and may not even budge. This is even before you get a chance to back the ebrake shoes off.

Spray some pb blaster around the hub circumference where it meets the rotor and then into the rotor stud holes. Rotate and repeat. Come back in 20 mins with a hammer, and take lifes frustrations out on it. The puller is another option though...

 

[cincydru]

well really, all im wanting to do is replace the pads. i visually inspected and felt around the rotor and it felt fine to me. so , from what i gathered here, its basically like changing the front pads.

thanks guys!

 

[BubbaFL]

I just did the rear brakes and did not use a puller. There is an adjustment for the e-break on the inside that I just backed off. And the disk came off, no problems.

Depends how often you service the e-brakes, I guess. Mine had it's first e-brake job at 115k; even with PB Blaster and a stout sledge the rotors were not coming off without the puller.