How does the Control Trac system work - 96 Exp. | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

How does the Control Trac system work - 96 Exp.

Dude13450

Member
Joined
September 20, 2015
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
City, State
Washington
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser
So I just got my 96 Explorer driving again (the shift motor was holding the t-case in neutral). I had to actuate the t-case by hand and noticed that the t-case only has two positions for the shift motor to actuate between: high and low. This got me curious as to how the 4x4 works.

When you switch mine from 2hi to 4hi (I don't have a 4 auto option), is what happens is the front hubs engage and the front different is always spinning even in 2wd? (I noticed when I fiddle with my rear drive shaft that the front also jiggled with it.)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





As no one else has answered your question I will try to... I'm no Explorer 4WD expert, although I know a little bit about how the ones with the AUTO switch option work and AWD, but here's what I know about 4WD in general. The front diff and drive shaft is always spinning unless the vehicle is equipped with manual locking hubs (not sure that's even an option on an Explorer with front half shafts/CV axles). So your the transfer case always engages the rear wheels and only engages the front drive shaft when you select 4WD HI or LO. If I'm wrong, someone will be more than happy to correct me.

On later years with the AUTO position for the switch sensed rear wheel slippage and would automatically engage the front wheels. I don't know if the 4WD systems like yours did this. The name "CONTROL TRAC" seems to indicate they did. This feature can be annoying and there is a modification that can me made (known as the "brown wire mod") to turn this feature off.
 






The front diff and drive shaft is always spinning unless the vehicle is equipped with manual locking hubs. So your transfer case always engages the rear wheels and only engages the front drive shaft when you select 4WD HI or LO.

I think you are on the right track (see what I did there?); however, I think front diff is always spinning (front driveshaft is always engaged) but there is a vacuum disconnect for the front diff and/or front hubs. Like I said, my transfer case only has a HI and LO range for the shift motor (I have been in the junkyards and seen ones that have "2HI, 4HI, and 4LO" engraved into the t-case underneath the shift motor). Which means that my front shafts are always engaged but not the front hubs (which are either electronic or vacuum operated) OR my car has had its transfer case replaced with one of the later full-time AWD units.
 






I just did another check, I actually do have "4WD AUTO". My selections are "2WD, 4WD AUTO, 4LO).
 






I just did another check, I actually do have "4WD AUTO". My selections are "2WD, 4WD AUTO, 4LO).

Then AUTO is normally RWD/2WD. If the front wheels are turning the axles are turning, the front diff is turning and the front drive shaft is turning whether the t-case is engaged or not. The AUTO setting/function is as I described.
 






Then AUTO is normally RWD/2WD. If the front wheels are turning the axles are turning, the front diff is turning and the front drive shaft is turning whether the t-case is engaged or not. The AUTO setting/function is as I described.

So basically, I don't get a true 4WD even in 4WD AUTO, I only get 4WD when slippage is detected?
 






Mostly true...but, not entirely according to research I've done on these. I've read a small amount (6%-10%) of power is always dedicated to the front wheels when in Auto mode. Some on here, however, adamantly disagree with this. Regardless, I detest the Auto mode on my '98 XLT (true 2WD was not an option beginning in '97). I just had my transfer case rebuilt after buying the truck 3 yrs ago and putting 45K miles on it without ever touching the dash switch. If you're going to run in Auto mode, they say mismatched tire sizes, loose/worn suspension parts or uneven tire pressures can and will lead to premature transfer case wear. So...IMO, I would resist using Auto mode when at all possible.
 






Mostly true...but, not entirely according to research I've done on these. I've read a small amount (6%-10%) of power is always dedicated to the front wheels when in Auto mode. Some on here, however, adamantly disagree with this. Regardless, I detest the Auto mode on my '98 XLT (true 2WD was not an option beginning in '97). I just had my transfer case rebuilt after buying the truck 3 yrs ago and putting 45K miles on it without ever touching the dash switch. If you're going to run in Auto mode, they say mismatched tire sizes, loose/worn suspension parts or uneven tire pressures can and will lead to premature transfer case wear. So...IMO, I would resist using Auto mode when at all possible.

Question: If I remember correctly, your only choices are AUTO, 4WD HI and 4WD LO. If that's true, how can you "avoid" using the AUTO mode (unless you do the "brown wire mod" and add a switch)? In any 4WD/AWD system tire wear/diameter and pressure is very important.
 






Question: If I remember correctly, your only choices are AUTO, 4WD HI and 4WD LO. If that's true, how can you "avoid" using the AUTO mode (unless you do the "brown wire mod" and add a switch)? In any 4WD/AWD system tire wear/diameter and pressure is very important.


The switch has 2WD, 4WD AUTO, and 4WD LO. As to what my seemingly only 2 speed transfer case does, your guess is as good as mine.
 






The switch has 2WD, 4WD AUTO, and 4WD LO. As to what my seemingly only 2 speed transfer case does, your guess is as good as mine.

According to the picture I found on eBay, there is no 2WD setting...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-FORD-...ERS-/131607292205?hash=item1ea467e92d&vxp=mtr

Here's another one. I've never seen a switch that said 2WD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-01-Ford-...zel-/141781443647?hash=item2102d5243f&vxp=mtr

and another.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-96-97-98...ZEL-/262043235995?hash=item3d02fe769b&vxp=mtr

If your switch says something different, I'd love to see a pic. The "brown wire mod" was invented to allow the AUTO setting to be true 2WD. The other 2 possible settings are 4WD HI and 4WD LO.

I'll be damned. I found one that says 2WD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Ford-...ETE-/171945448474?hash=item2808bf541a&vxp=mtr

Here's a really strange one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-FORD-...TER-/131607310841?hash=item1ea46831f9&vxp=mtr

Now I'm totally confused on this issue, LOL
 






According to the picture I found on eBay, there is no 2WD setting...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-FORD-...ERS-/131607292205?hash=item1ea467e92d&vxp=mtr

Here's another one. I've never seen a switch that said 2WD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-01-Ford-...zel-/141781443647?hash=item2102d5243f&vxp=mtr

and another.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-96-97-98...ZEL-/262043235995?hash=item3d02fe769b&vxp=mtr

If your switch says something different, I'd love to see a pic. The "brown wire mod" was invented to allow the AUTO setting to be true 2WD. The other 2 possible settings are 4WD HI and 4WD LO.

I'll be damned. I found one that says 2WD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-03-Ford-...ETE-/171945448474?hash=item2808bf541a&vxp=mtr

Here's a really strange one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-FORD-...TER-/131607310841?hash=item1ea46831f9&vxp=mtr

Now I'm totally confused on this issue, LOL

What I bet you're finding is that the 98 (or 97) models until 2000-2002 ish, the Explorer was rid of the 2WD option and was considered "full time" AWD and not 4WD. Pre98 and post -00 to 02 ish had a 2WD option on the selctor.
 






Just out of curiosity, I went to take my truck out for an "emissions" inspection, but on the way there it popped out of the HI range (again, my rig only has HI and LO labeled on the transfer case. I DO NOT have the 4x4 shift motor installed right now (it's toast). I tried to get it back into the HI range but the transfer case just wouldn't let me, so I went the rest of the 3 to 4 ish miles (total for the trip) in the LO range, making sure speeds did not exceed 30mph (my impression is the absolute top speed for LO is 35mph).

I am thinking about replacing the t-case with that of the manual shift. That way, I don't have to rely on s@#$ty electronics for my 4WD, I would rather be "guaranteed" 4x4 when I select 4x4. My plans along with the manual t-case are swapping to manual hubs. I'll be snagging the hubs and spindle nuts off a Ranger/Explorer from a junkyard if I can find them (10 bucks a pop versus $130+ new for the pair); I have been reading on some sources that I will need new knuckles for the manual hubs, but that doesn't sound right - do I need new knuckles, or just the hubs+nuts?

Also, my understanding is that some 91-94 Explorers came with the manual t-case, but all I've seen is that they are all electronic (push button) in my area....either that or all the manuals are already scavenged which wouldn't surprise me one bit! I know the Ranger t-cases will work, but do the floor plates swap over onto the Explorer (to provide a hole for the shifter or should I just cut one??

Also, where do I find the identification badges on transfer cases so I know that I am grabbing a 1354 t-case? Just in case, will any of the Ford F-series t-cases fit the Explorer?
 






I can't offer much help with your questions (except, I do know there is a tag attached to the t-case identifying what it is)...but, I like where you're going with the manual shift idea. The owner of the transmission shop where I took my truck to have the transfer case rebuilt was saying the same thing about these electronic shift Torque on Demand setups (and, AWD)...they are nothing but trouble. This, from a guy who has a steady workload repairing them. His words were..."I'd take a manual shift any day".

I was not aware any '91-'93 Explorers came with the manual shift. I've rummaged thru more Explorers in the salvage yards than I care to think about and have never seen one. Thought that was their big selling point vs. Broncos, Jimmys, Jeeps is that you could shift on the fly and didn't have to get out and lock the hubs.

Keep us posted.
 






I can't offer much help with your questions (except, I do know there is a tag attached to the t-case identifying what it is)...but, I like where you're going with the manual shift idea. The owner of the transmission shop where I took my truck to have the transfer case rebuilt was saying the same thing about these electronic shift Torque on Demand setups (and, AWD)...they are nothing but trouble. This, from a guy who has a steady workload repairing them. His words were..."I'd take a manual shift any day".

I was not aware any '91-'93 Explorers came with the manual shift. I've rummaged thru more Explorers in the salvage yards than I care to think about and have never seen one. Thought that was their big selling point vs. Broncos, Jimmys, Jeeps is that you could shift on the fly and didn't have to get out and lock the hubs.

Keep us posted.

They still had auto hubs, but you have a stick instead the switch/buttons. You could still shift on the fly with most manual cases (at least from 2hi to 4hi anyways). I just hope I have my facts straight about the early Explorers that had manual cases (I'm not entirely sure).
 






Well guys, I found a manual transfer case out a 92 explorer and there is one other 1st gen with a manual t-case and one 91 ranger with one as well! WHAT A DAY!

The best part is I didn't even have to pull it, some dude pulled it and the transmission and left them both in the back of the rig! Second best part is: all gears work (2HI, 4HI, and 4LO) and there is no virtually no free-play between the front and rear yokes when in 4HI/LO (only has the normal amount of play). That leads me to believe the chain is nice and taut. Sadly, I was only scouting today (didn't bring my tools) when I found this just sitting there, so I could not grab the floorplate and thus the shifter+bracket (they were still attached to the shifter which was installed in the floorplate).

Only cost me $60 before the core charge of a whopping $5 and taxes which only brought the total $70.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top