How to: Front Sway Bar Disconnects | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Front Sway Bar Disconnects

Kevlar7R

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 18, 2007
Messages
279
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2
City, State
Phoenix, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Mountaineer 5.0 4x4
Adding Sway bar disconnects was one of the best off-road modifications I’ve done to my truck. I thought I’d share how I did it:

This applies to 95-01 trucks. I don’t know the sway bar setup on other years, but it may work there too. This is for the front only, but I will also add instructions for the rear when I get that sorted out.

Parts Needed:
Threaded Rod – 7/16th-24, At least 2 feet (cut to 2 10.5” lengths)
2 – 7/16th-24 Jam Nuts (thin, non-locking nuts)
2- 7/16th-24 Lock Nuts (In kit if installing new links)
2- 7/16th-24 Wing nuts
New Link kits (optional, but recommended)

Taking apart old links to do this is okay, assuming they are in good condition, but for the low cost of fresh links from Autozone ($12 each) I suggest getting the kits.

Remove all links from the truck. Rotate the sway bar up out of the way.
Install one locknut on the end of each piece of threaded rod (recommend doing this on the end you cut, since you’ll never take off this nut again and if the threads get damaged, no problem)
Place one curved washer and one rubber bushing on each threaded rod, against the nut you just installed.
Slide UP from the bottom through hole in the control arm.
Install another rubber bushing, another curved washer, the spacer tube, and the Jam Nut on the threaded rod.
Tighten the Jam nut down against the lock nut, compressing the rubber against the control arm.
Repeat all of the above for the other side – You will need to do the next part on both sides at the same time (alternating back and forth)
Put a curved washer and bushing on top of the jam nut on each side.
Rotate the sway bar down over the threaded rod and bushing.
Install another bushing, another curved washer, and the wing nut.

Now, when you get to the trail, you can reach in and undo the wing nut, pull off the nut, washer, and rubber, and rotate the sway bar around until it hangs down in front of the suspension (or you could make a wire hook to hang it in the up position). Put the rubber, washer and wing nut back on the link, and go wheel!!!

I had originally done this by just installing the links upside down and using a wing nut instead of the lock nut. There were 2 problems with this. One was, the wing nut was stuck in place, and without the Jam nut keeping tension on the lower portion, I couldn’t break the wing nut free by hand. The other was, I put the wing nuts back on loosely and went wheeling…. And lost my links somewhere on the trail. The Jam Nuts will also keep the parts from falling out when not in use.

I will add pictures to this possibly tonight, or later this week when I get a chance to mess with the truck again.
 



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i want to do this someday
 






That's not a bad set up. Only thing is that I'd want to figure a way so the link could be flipped out of the way with the sway bar.
 






j train, I thought about that, but the clearances don't work. When the sway bar is flipped up, they'd be pointing to the rear of the truck, and hitting the upper control arm. In fact, they would never clear it to get above the upper control arm. You have a brake hose and an abs wire in that same space, and there would be a risk of pinching them with the end of the link as the suspension moves.

There is already room for the link to move up and down with the lower control arm, without any interferences, so it's just along for the ride with no issues.
 






Ok that's good to know there's clearance forg it to hang and not hit anything.
 






great post..its amazing how much of a difference it makes with flex when the sway bar is disconnected
 






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