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I think i am messing up....help..

blazin8556

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City, State
Stalkin' your mom....
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 XLT AWD 5.0
i want to put a 2000 cd/tape oem radio in my 97. my 97 is sporting the P100 connections. the 2000 has T100 using only the two bottom plugs. he is giving me the radio and harnesses. i have been digging for 3 hours on what wires to match up. and i keep getting a bunch of different diagrams. i know about the adapters but wires have already been cut. also i am under the impression that my truck has an amp in the rear panel and this "new" radio has its own built in. if there is an amp will the input and out put wires be the same color or what do i need to match up. i am mentally exausted after messing with these trucks all day. if i need to clarify by all means let me know.

http://oem-auto-accessory.com/photo_page.html

by the way both are xlt v8 awd trucks.
 



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bump, anyone?
 






The 2000 has a built in 15 watt per channel amp. The 97 could have an external amp and or sub woofer - you would know that so assume it doesn't. I think the easiest way to do this is to wire your door speakers directecly to the speaker out wires on the the t-100 20 pin connector. You need all the power, ground and illumination wires connected also.
Get the correct schematics at the following link in PDF form - free:
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...ration-1995-96-explorer-audio-schematics.html

More Ford audio facts here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25999
 






I once did the same mod basically in a friends car 97 X to a 2005 6cd radio with phase 2 connectors. The biggest thing was to use an bypass adapter in the rear right panel where the amp is located. Since you say that you're using 2 connectors on the rear of the radio, I'll assume there is no sub woofer. The bypass connector basically spliced (bypass) the connections between the disconnected amp and the direct output connections to the speakers. This was about 3 years ago so I don't remember the bypass connector part number. For the connections at the rear of the radio itself, you can use a reverse harness that has the T100 (world plug). Use the diagrams mentions by Scucci for the proper wiring identification (colors). Many on here will say it's better to go with an aftermarket radio but I always liked a challenge of staying with an OEM radio.
If I can be of further help let me know.
 






ok. just got the 2000 wires all connected in the dash. the radio comes on and operates as i think it should. no sound. got to flipping through the owners manual and looked at the fuse numbers. #1 minifuse under the hood is for JBL sound system. a fuse was present. popped out the 30 foot plastic pin things and moved the panel in the back passenger cargo area, and there she was. i pretty little gray amplifier.

i have a million splice connectores and wire strippers ready. what needs to be spliced into what?
 






working as it should refers to the cd player ejecting, dimmer, changing channels holding presets and remembering time when the key is turned off and back on.
 






AT DECK
--------------
+12v = lt. green/yellow
ignition = yellow/black
ground = black
amp turn on = dk. blue
illumination = orange/black
dimmer = lt. blue/red
LF Speaker (+) WHITE/RED
LF Speaker (-) BROWN
RF Speaker (+) WHITE/ORANGE
RF Speaker (-) LIGHT GREEN
LR Speaker (+) PINK/WHITE
LR Speaker (-) LIGHT BLUE
RR Speaker (+) LIGHT BLUE/BLACK
RR Speaker (-) YELLOW

-------------------------
AMP to SPEAKERS
-------------------------
LF Speaker (+) ORANGE/LT. GREEN
LF Speaker (-) LT. BLUE/WHITE
RF Speaker (+) WHITE/LT. GREEN
RF Speaker (-) DK. GREEN/ORANGE
LR Speaker (+) PINK/LT. GREEN
LR Speaker (-) TAN/YELLOW
RR Speaker (+) ORANGE/RED
RR Speaker (-) BLACK/WHITE


would i be correct in saying that i need to splice the speakers together. what else would be needed to change anything?
 






im sorry, but what about just powering up the remote amp lead in the dash would that work. this is bugging me. been riding with no tunage for 2 weeks. and my droid phone mp3 program ain't that loud. i hear more tire noise than music.
 






if the 200 radio has a turn on amp wire hook it up. make sure you have the radio turned all the way down when you turn on the system. then slowly turn it up till you get sound.

if you pump 15 watts into an 80 watt amp it might overload and burn some thing out. so go slow!

but I would hook it up. not sure what the signal is to tell the amp to come on. some are a low voltage like 5 volts and others all it's doing is grounding the line from the amp.
 






As far as I have been able to determine, Ford has used 5 volt logic level turn-on on all the first and second gen systems. Check pin 5 of the head unit 20 pin connector ltgrn/blk wire for 5 volts when the head unit comes on. I don't know if it is capable of remote turn on or not. Pin 2 20 pin connector ltgrn/blk of the 97 jbl amp is also the audio system on connection. I would try connecting the pin 5 20 and pin 2 20 pin connectorwires and see if the amp turns on. I do not know if this will work, it is just a thought. Also you can get a by-pass harness for the jbl system amp, or you could wire the new head unit speaker outputs directly to the speakers at the 14 pin connector and just leave the amp out of the system. Just kind of thinking out loud.
 






i was trying to get around running new wires. didn't want to wrestle wireing throught the door boots. i tried that once and failed terribly with this truck. kinda just wanted to splice. but i do think that the amp bypass harness would be the super easy thing to do. now i have to track down the harness. i just want to use a jumper harness at the amp and remove the amp to sell on ebay or something. or trash it. anyone know the part number and somewhere i can go and get it. like best buy or something.

btw. splicing wouldn't hurt my feelings none. i already have stuff to do it. and nothing on this truck is gonna be stock after all the conversions i am wanting to do. i started a notebook outlining the mods to the truck. just in case i sell it they can see what is going on. i doubt ill sell it anytime soon tho.
 






its working now, kinda, but enough for me. put power to the blue wire and it made sound. only thing is. i only have front speakers. i think that maybe i got some wires to the speakers back wards and its not letting the back come on. i get really good sound now. seems better than the old radio. normal volume is 3 little volume bars. half way is crazy loud.
 






so now you just have to get the wiring to the speakers figured out and you will have a very loud ( 80 watt ) system.


so you did hook the radio "amp on" wire to the amps "amp on" wire right??
 






well i have to go back over the wireing. i think somewhere i have some wires crossed. my 2000 wire diagram is not very trust worthy. but the one for the 97 was dead on after i reprinted. the first 97 diagram was completely wrong. and the 2000 was pulled from the same place. i need some that are right. i think the 2k one is the blame right now. so no. its not on the amp on wire. its kinda rigged for now to work. cause my diagram did not identify the wire.
 






oh! O.K.
well your on the right track now
 






The 2000 has a built in 15 watt per channel amp. The 97 could have an external amp and or sub woofer - you would know that so assume it doesn't. I think the easiest way to do this is to wire your door speakers directecly to the speaker out wires on the the t-100 20 pin connector. You need all the power, ground and illumination wires connected also.
Get the correct schematics at the following link in PDF form - free:
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...ration-1995-96-explorer-audio-schematics.html

More Ford audio facts here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25999


Such a very amazing link!
 






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