Is 4x4 working?

[2good2btru]

I don't go off-roading at all or anything. We just had a recent snow fall and there were a few times when I would like to use 4-wheel drive. I'm not a car guy so I'm not sure if it's working correctly or not, so I have some doubts.

When I switch my truck ('98 Explorer XLT, 4.0L SOHC) into 4x4 HIGH the small yellow light on the dashboard comes on. I don't feel any 'shifting' or anything beneath my feet. Should I? Should I hear anything? I don't feel any difference in traction either.

Next, when I switch it into 4x4 LOW, the little light on the dashboard doesn't even come on at all. And again, I don't feel or hear any shifting.

Is there anyway that I can tell if my 4-wheel drive is working? Am I just making a big deal out of nothing? Should I be able to tell a difference in feel and sound? I'm guessing that's not how it's supposed to be.

Much help would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

I don't go off-roading at all or anything. We just had a recent snow fall and there were a few times when I would like to use 4-wheel drive. I'm not a car guy so I'm not sure if it's working correctly or not, so I have some doubts.

When I switch my truck ('98 Explorer XLT, 4.0L SOHC) into 4x4 HIGH the small yellow light on the dashboard comes on. I don't feel any 'shifting' or anything beneath my feet. Should I? Should I hear anything? I don't feel any difference in traction either.

Next, when I switch it into 4x4 LOW, the little light on the dashboard doesn't even come on at all. And again, I don't feel or hear any shifting.

Is there anyway that I can tell if my 4-wheel drive is working? Am I just making a big deal out of nothing? Should I be able to tell a difference in feel and sound? I'm guessing that's not how it's supposed to be.

Much help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Hi,

I have the same year/model/engine as you do. I'm no expert myself, but the way I understand it is that we have "full-time" 4 wheel drive - the truck is always in 4 wheel drive. When the dashboard switch is in "Auto" 4x4 mode the truck monitors rear wheel spin and variably adjusts the amount of traction going to the front wheels vs. the rear wheels, much like a limited slip differential does. When you move the switch to 4x4 High it just locks to a 50/50 front/rear power mix. There is no shifting or switching as it is already in 4x4 high.

To switch into 4x4 Low, the truck must be stopped and in neutral. When you move the switch you should hear some switching noises. There is a lock-out to prevent you from switching into 4x4 Low in another gear or while moving, much like your transmission will not let you downshift to first gear at highway speed.

Here we have had nothing but snow and ice for the past 6 weeks. I have found that leaving the truck in the Auto mode has worked very well. When going up a hill on snow and ice I can tell that the front wheels are pulling. I also notice the fronts pulling when I am sitting at an intersection and start out on the inevitable ice that forms from all the car exhaust heat. The rears spin a bit and the fronts kick in more and pull me through and then back-off again.

Are you getting poor snow traction in the Auto mode?

 

[96eb96]

Next, when I switch it into 4x4 LOW, the little light on the dashboard doesn't even come on at all. And again, I don't feel or hear any shifting.


Much help would be appreciated! Thanks!

To make this work you have to be stopped, shift into neutral, then turn the dial to LOW. Put the truck back in drive.

When you dont want low, repeat the above process and switch to high.

You should feel a clunk coming from under the truck!

 

[2good2btru]

You guys have been a huge help! I guess everything is working perfectly like it should! Thank you so much!

I've never had any problem in snow or ice and so I always thought that it had sensed that it needed to be in 4-wheel, but I was just never sure about it. I guess the 'Auto' setting does a pretty good job, eh?

I got so excited after reading the last few posts that I ran outside (at midnight) and tested out 4x4 LOW in the parking lot right next to my house. I pulled the car out, came to a complete stop, put it in neutral, and then switched it from "Auto" to "4x4 LOW". When I heard the satisfying KA-CLUNK coming from beneath my feet I was so excited I almost screamed.

Thanks for everything guys! Really appreciate it! Now that I know my 4-wheel drive is working like it should, when would be the appropriate to use Auto, 4x4 HIGH, and 4x4 LOW? Just curious. Thanks again!

 

[IZwack]

When I heard the satisfying KA-CLUNK coming from beneath my feet I was so excited I almost screamed.

It would have been more satisfying if you stripped to your underwear and made a snow angel.

But to get back on topic, just dont use 4HI or 4LO on dry surface or click, click, crunch will say the transfer case.

 

[2good2btru]

Oh, I was just being modest. I was so excited that I went traffic surfing naked down the Freeway. (I used a system of string and pulleys to steer, and a brick on the gas pedal. Stopping was a little tough though.)

As long as I leave it in Auto, it won't give me any troubles though, right? Even in the winter when 4x4 could be used, since it should detect when it's needed automatically, should I even bother switching it if the truck will just do it for me?

 

[IZwack]

As long as I leave it in Auto, it won't give me any troubles though, right? Even in the winter when 4x4 could be used, since it should detect when it's needed automatically, should I even bother switching it if the truck will just do it for me?

That's one of the great dilemas that has faced man since he's learned to walk -- whether to leave the thing in 4HI or AUTO.

See the problem with these transfer cases is that the Force (not in Star Wars term but more so towards the Physics doodad) required to engage the front driveshaft (and therefore the front axle, and axle like in a vehicular sense, not like Axl the lead singer of GnR) actually comes from the engine and it is actually the shearing force in this weird "ball - ramp" system that squishes the clutch pack inside the transfer case which engages the front driveshaft. In other words, there must be a difference in dirveshaft RPM in order for the front driveshaft to engage. This means that when the switch is in 4HI and both driveshafts are spinning at the same RPMs (the vehicle is travelling in a straight line), then the system is still mechanically in 2wd mode because the "ball - ramp" system is not squishing the clutch pack. The switch on the dash only "provisions" 4wd engagement, it doesnt actually engage the front driveshaft -- it merely allows the front driveshaft to be engaged (and engage more like what Jean Luc Picard would say, not 'hey lets get engaged next week hmmkay?' type of thing) when there is a shearing fore (which is again, a difference in RPM speed between the two driveshafts) in the transfer case.

So I guess to answer your question, I'd put it in 4HI when there is snow on the ground because I'm human and I like to reassure myself that I have control over my vehicle (as false as that may be).

 

[2good2btru]

Okay, so normal driving, leave it in Auto. Deep Snow or just snow in general, put it into 4x4 HI. When would be the case in 4x4 LOW?

My understanding for 4x4 LOW is that it should only be used under about 25 mph. It puts the truck in a lower gear which would be acceptable when climbing steep hills, or if you need more torque to get through something? You shouldn't drive in 4x4 LOW or it will ruin the drive-shaft. Correct me if ANY of that is wrong.

 

[RockyMtnHigh]

Okay, so normal driving, leave it in Auto. Deep Snow or just snow in general, put it into 4x4 HI. When would be the case in 4x4 LOW?

My understanding for 4x4 LOW is that it should only be used under about 25 mph. It puts the truck in a lower gear which would be acceptable when climbing steep hills, or if you need more torque to get through something? You shouldn't drive in 4x4 LOW or it will ruin the drive-shaft. Correct me if ANY of that is wrong.

Rock crawling - or more likely in our cases, when pulling a boat out of the drink on a slippery, sandy, steep angle ramp. Remember that you can also shift into second gear to gain an advantage on white roads.

 

[IZwack]

LO range wont ruin the driveshaft or anything else as long as you dont use it on dry pavement (the transfer case will explode long before the driveshaft as it is a magnesium/aluminum case). But you have it dead on, 4LO pretty much is only for increase torque. But see, 99% of the people out there dont need two and a half times more torque (which about the LO range's gear ratio) -- especially not in snow because the vehicle can not put down that much torque while on snow (snow is slippery).

The problem with going into LO range is getting out of it -- there have been cases on the forum where vehicles were stuck in 4LO. The shift motor (and the electronic system behind it) is a little moody (its that time of the month) in some vehicles. Personally, I would just use 4HI and never go into 4LO unless I was on a trail.

 

[2good2btru]

I still don't fully understand why you can't use 4x4 LOW on dry pavement. I mean, I understand that I shouldn't do it, but how could that damage the car on dry pavement, but not on a slick surface? All 4 wheels are turning regardless it's on dry pavement or in snow. Am I missing something?

 

[96eb96]

I still don't fully understand why you can't use 4x4 LOW on dry pavement. I mean, I understand that I shouldn't do it, but how could that damage the car on dry pavement, but not on a slick surface? All 4 wheels are turning regardless it's on dry pavement or in snow. Am I missing something?

Do you understand how the differential in the rear of your truck works? When you make a turn, one wheel traces out a path that is longer than the other wheel. Wet your wheels, look at the snow, you get the idea. The differential allows one wheel to move at one speed and the other to move at another speed. If not for this action both wheels would be forced to turn at the same speed, and your tires would wear down like erasers, the differential would be stressed etc. We are assuming dry pavement here.

In a slippery condition, assuming you have an OPEN differential, only the wheel with the least traction gets to spin, if you think of it thats the extreme case of being different in speed! We all know what happens when one wheel spins on ice! When that wheel spins, then the 4wdAuto system kicks in..read on...

Ok, now the 4x4 system. In 4 hi or 4 lo, your transfer case LOCKS the rear and front axles together. If you are on dry pavement, both axles are forced to move at the same speed when you turn, but obviously they are moving different distances. Now the transfer case is suffering because all that extra tension can't be released. So it tries to release all that pent up tension thru the tires, and the poor clutch, which is hard to impossible on dry pavement. Meanwhile Mr transfer case is suffering and in tears :frustrate:, and you are helping some guy in a shop make his next boat payment. If there is snow on the ground(mud, offroad, sand), the tension is easily released through the tires because they naturally slip. With the locking action you get max traction, but understand its limitation.

4 Auto only activates the front wheels if the rear starts to slip. So there is no extra wear on the xfer case. The system works like a dimmer switch, turning on the front wheels if "it gets dark". As the car regains traction and the rear slips less, the "dimmmer" is turned down and the transfer case rests. On dry pavement, about 5% of the dimmer is turned on in the front, which is virtually nothing.

Like IZ said, 2Lo is unnecessary for probably 95% of ex owners. What is does is give you extra gear reduction(power, torque) while the axles are locked. If you are launching a heavy boat or pulling stumps, it may be necessary. You can't go over 30MPH in that setting. Also, on older exes, there are cases where trucks get stuck in 4Lo and you have to do all kinds of heroic measures to get it out. If you have snow up to your headlights, it may get you free.

The 95-96 exes actually had a true 2wd setting, which converted the ex into a RWD truck. There was no 4 hi. So you have 2wd, auto , 4Lo.

Best thing is to leave it in AUTO, and if its really slippery out whatever put it in 4 hi. If you are climbing a slippery slope, or have issues with 4 hi, 2 Lo may help.

But understand everything in this post!

 

[2good2btru]

Wow! I understood all that completely! Thanks so much, 96eb96! You write very simply and basic so that I was able to understand all this complicated car mumbo-jumbo. I really appreciate it. These are things that are really important to know so I'm glad I read about it here before going and doing something stupid in my truck.

And thanks to everyone else in the thread too. IZwack, and RockyMountain. You guys have both helped immensely.

Now, one more question. Is all of this 4x4 stuff true for all other 4WD vehicles? Like I stated earlier, I have a 1998 Explorer. Obviously, it's not going to last forever. And especially since it's a Ford. But when it does finally die in a few years (hopefully it'll last that long) I would most likely upgrade to an F-150 or some other type of truck. Does all of this information still stand true for newer vehicles?

Thanks.

 

[96eb96]

Wow! I understood all that completely! Thanks so much, 96eb96! You write very simply and basic so that I was able to understand all this complicated car mumbo-jumbo. I really appreciate it. These are things that are really important to know so I'm glad I read about it here before going and doing something stupid in my truck.

And thanks to everyone else in the thread too. IZwack, and RockyMountain. You guys have both helped immensely.

Now, one more question. Is all of this 4x4 stuff true for all other 4WD vehicles? Like I stated earlier, I have a 1998 Explorer. Obviously, it's not going to last forever. And especially since it's a Ford. But when it does finally die in a few years (hopefully it'll last that long) I would most likely upgrade to an F-150 or some other type of truck. Does all of this information still stand true for newer vehicles?

Thanks.

Glad it is clear to you.

Yes sir! All 4WD systems work exactly as explained in this thread. Do you see now how 4WD is actually "2WD?" Actually, if two opposing wheels are on slippery surfaces you go nowhere! Some trucks have a Limited slip rear (trac-lok) as opposed to the open I explained. This brings you up to 3 wheel drive, and will transfer power from one slipping rear wheel to the other(hoping is on a surface that has some traction). Look at your door jamb sticker for the AX code, then you can determine if you have that feature.

To make it complete though, I will explain AWD, that is a bit different. The V8 explorer and many cars (subaru, new Fords, etc) come with an All wheel Drive Arrangement. There are no buttons for AWD and it always works without the driver knowing about it. Inside the transfer case, there is a device that splits the engines power 40/60 (depending on the application) front/rear at all times. Now you may ask..how can it do that? Well it has a special clutch that transfers the power thru a fluid. Think of two fans, one driven by the motor and it spins in a liquid, agitates the liquid, and then the other spins due to that motion(this is an approximate way of thinking about it). Now you see that liquid gap can absorb all of the of that windup you can throw at it. Add the limited slip in the rear, and you get close to true "All wheel drive." Exs do not have LS in the front though, but I believe some cars like Subaru actually do!

What is the disadvantage? Most of the time you do not need AWD. However, you are paying a price to drive the front wheels unnecessarily at all times. This cost gas and wear on components.

Again, going back to the 96 ex, and on trucks like the F150, you can actually set a true 2WD mode and take the front axle completely out of the picture. This makes the driver responsible for shifting the truck into 4wheel when needed though. The 97+ exs are designed with a soccer mom in mind(no offense to soccer moms LOL), so the 4wd auto or AWD are always working without thought. On the other hand the average F150 user knows when and when not to use it.....

 

[braso]

How to know which 4x4 setting?

Hi Everyone.

I recently got a 3rd gen XLT. Ive done a major maintenance service at 100k kms in Ford service center.

I would like to ask, how would i know if the 4x4 setting is on Auto? On start-up, the 4x4 Low and 4x4 high are turned on. Then after a few seconds, the 4x4 high turns-off with the 4x4 Low remaining turned-on for another second or two.

Ive tried setting it as per manual but no indications or sound that the setting is on Auto.

Ive been browsing on the forums for the last 5 days and i have'nt chanced upon about my querry.

Pardon to 2good2btru for intruding on his thread.

Thanks.
Braso