Is a Deteriorating Rubber Boot a Problem?

[DiGiornoRisingCrust]

I'm not that good of a mechanic, so I don't really know if this is a problem or not. The only suspension components I can recognize are springs and tie rods, and this isn't either of those, so I have no clue what the rod even does. Can anyone here fill me in on what I should do?

 

[swshawaii]

https://www.moogparts.com/pdf/problemsolver/english/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

 

[Mbrooks420]

Those are sway bar end links. The help reduce body roll. Easy to replace.

 

[DiGiornoRisingCrust]

Can I just replace the rubber boot, or should I replace the whole rod? I have noticed that when turning right (so that weight is one the right side, and on the bad sway bar) it feels shaky and wobbly, but it only started recently.

 

[Mbrooks420]

They come as a kit. The bolt going through the rod often breaks. They are cheap.

 

[Mbrooks420]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...8,1434502,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

Or

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...8,1434502,suspension,stabilizer+bar+link,7580

I’d recommend a look at the rears, and also the bushing that the large bar that connects to that runs through that mounts it to the frame.

 

[hibbbbbs]

"I’d recommend a look at the rears, and also the bushing that the large bar that connects to that runs through that mounts it to the frame."

I second that, my 06 and my mom's 07 both had a rear sway bar link snap off at around 110,000 so can't hurt to do them too.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Nice front sway bar linkages. I have to change mine every 6 months or so from the same problem. I have tried the most expensive, to the cheapest, and they all last about the same. I did my rears about 2 years ago though, after the bar itself snapped, even though the bushings were still in one piece, and never had a problem since.

 

[gdgiordano]

Nice front sway bar linkages. I have to change mine every 6 months or so from the same problem. I have tried the most expensive, to the cheapest, and they all last about the same. I did my rears about 2 years ago though, after the bar itself snapped, even though the bushings were still in one piece, and never had a problem since.

I wonder if the bar was damaged causing it to eat the links?!? Bent out of shape somehow

 

[dacaur2]

I will say first, I highly recommend just going with the moog part rather than replacing just the bad bushing....

That said, all you really need to replace is the rubber bushing, so if money is super tight right now, a few bucks at an auto parts store will get you a pack with a few different bushing sizes.

But new links with bushings are cheap. I bought a set with rubber bushings, and just did the one that was bad (mine was actually completely missing... its loud when you lose a swaybar link on the road...) I only did the side that was bad, figuring then I had the second one for a spare.... I did it last fall, and when I changed my wheel bearing on the same tire a couple weeks ago, the rubber was pretty well gone, so I put the second one on.... When that one goes bad, I will buy one with poly bushings, which will last longer. You want moog part # K700542 https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700542...e=UTF8&qid=1534334621&sr=8-1&keywords=k700542
Moog makes another kit with rubber bushings a slightly larger hardware as well https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K7275-S...00C57YMK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

 

[Mr. Alligator]

When you remove the old sway bar linkage, you will probably find that they are rusted and frozen together. You might even need to cut the old ones out. So you will probably need to replace the whole sway bar anyway. Which is a good idea.

Good luck.

 

[Tech By Trade]

I wonder if the bar was damaged causing it to eat the links?!? Bent out of shape somehow

I was wondering that myself, so I took it apart when I changed the bushings that go to the frame, and didn't see anything wrong, other than the wear on the bar from the bushings. I don't know if they came factory with the little indents or if it wore out. It all fit tight with the new bushings. I think it has more to do with the piss poor road conditions, especially in the winter months and the sub zero temperatures.

 

[dacaur2]

I think a lot of the problem with swaybar links on these trucks (and other fords) is they are using a terrible setup that makes the bushings work in a way they were never intended to work, or at least, is far outside their window of optimum performance. On jeeps, for example, the swaybar links have eyelets on each end (like a mini shock absorber but with a solid bar instead of a shock), with bushings in them and a bolt goes through the center of the bushing at each end. Other vehicles use a link with what is basically a ball joint at each end. Either of those setups is far superior as far as bushing longevity and dont suffer the whole "where did my swaybar link go" issue.....

 

[gdgiordano]

I think a lot of the problem with swaybar links on these trucks (and other fords) is they are using a terrible setup that makes the bushings work in a way they were never intended to work, or at least, is far outside their window of optimum performance. On jeeps, for example, the swaybar links have eyelets on each end (like a mini shock absorber but with a solid bar instead of a shock), with bushings in them and a bolt goes through the center of the bushing at each end. Other vehicles use a link with what is basically a ball joint at each end. Either of those setups is far superior as far as bushing longevity and dont suffer the whole "where did my swaybar link go" issue.....

I wonder if these could be retrofitted with a different design.

 

[06bluez]

yes I bet the Lincoln Aviator sway bar could be swapped in, it used a ball and socket style end link as opposed to the explorer style...

 

[gdgiordano]

yes I bet the Lincoln Aviator sway bar could be swapped in, it used a ball and socket style end link as opposed to the explorer style...

Somebody should try this

 

[Tech By Trade]

Ford has been using this crappy design for decades. They rattle away on all my dads old farm trucks back home. Although they are not alone, my wife had a 93 Toyota Camry with the same setup in the back end. I had to replace the bushings on it every year or so.

 

[thebrakeman]

Most people over-tighten these links. On some vehicles, that might not create a problem. On these, it leads to broken rods. They need to be tight enough, so that the there is no "play" or "slop" causing things to clunk. But they need to be loose enough, so that the rounded bushings can rotate within the "cup".

If you get a kit that has softer bushings, it probably does not matter, as over time, they will simply wear out and rip like yours. They really do not rotate. They just smoosh and compress as needed. Other kits (like the Moogs with the white poly bushings) are harder material. It's these that can cause problems with overtightening, since they really do not compress much. They need to be loose enough to rotate a bit in-use. I broke a set within a month, before I talked to a Tech at Moog. He told me:
1. Tighten just until you can no longer turn the center sleeve by hand.
2. Then tighten 1 more complete revolution, and no more.

Again, any tighter, and the rods will break quickly. Any looser, and you will have noisy play.