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Is it time for a mechanic or another car?

ANagy

New Member
Joined
November 4, 2022
Messages
6
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City, State
Manchester, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Ford Explorer XLT
06 Ford Explorer XLT V6 4.0
Can someone help me out? Forscan reading: "P0135, HO2SHTR11 - Heater Circuit Malf. This DTC may be caused by Heater Circuit Shorted to VBATT, Short to Ground, Open Circuit"
DTCs:
P0135 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor),
P0141 (Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor),
P0148 (fuel delivery error),
P0155 (Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 sensor, heater circuit malf),
P0161 (Bank 2 Sensor 2 O2 sensor heater circuit),
P0403 (EGR valve voltage - recirculation has malf),
P0443 (EVAP system purge valve or its circuit),
P0645 (A/C clutch relay control circuit) and last, hopefully the least,
B1347 (driver front airbag resistance too low)

Could all this be caused by a short somewhere? Where do I start? After ripping my hair out.

As follow up: I'm getting .17-.19 Amps until I yank fuse #2 Microcontroller Power (SJB) at which point it drops to .01-.03 Amps.???????????????????????????????????????????????
 



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SJB controller fuse will be remain powered until vehicle entered sleep mode ( approx 30 minutes after doors closed,brake depressed,lights off etc).

As for the DTCs

There is no universal remedy,try following factory workshop manual instruction per every DTC listed.


Looks like general engine main harness shortcut mess.but who knows.every code needs to be checked separately
 






SJB controller fuse will be remain powered until vehicle entered sleep mode ( approx 30 minutes after doors closed,brake depressed,lights off etc).

As for the DTCs

There is no universal remedy,try following factory workshop manual instruction per every DTC listed.


Looks like general engine main harness shortcut mess.but who knows.every code needs to be checked separately
Thanks. It all started with P0135 - Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor which I replaced. Then drove for a while and now everything went South that's why I thought it might be the result of one short somewhere.
 






A storm of trouble codes all at once is often a sign of low system voltage. Check battery voltage, running and not. Check for clean, tight battery clamps and a good chassis ground. Also check the bulk connectors on/near the firewall, for looseness or corrosion.

Your current measurements look within acceptable range, as Bazz270 mentioned this is consistent with the woke, and timer countdown to sleep states of the vehicle or pulling the fuse it goes into that state immediately.
 






06 Ford Explorer XLT V6 4.0
Can someone help me out? Forscan reading: "P0135, HO2SHTR11 - Heater Circuit Malf. This DTC may be caused by Heater Circuit Shorted to VBATT, Short to Ground, Open Circuit"
DTCs:
P0135 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 sensor),
P0141 (Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor),
P0148 (fuel delivery error),
P0155 (Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 sensor, heater circuit malf),
P0161 (Bank 2 Sensor 2 O2 sensor heater circuit),
P0403 (EGR valve voltage - recirculation has malf),
P0443 (EVAP system purge valve or its circuit),
P0645 (A/C clutch relay control circuit) and last, hopefully the least,
B1347 (driver front airbag resistance too low)

Could all this be caused by a short somewhere? Where do I start? After ripping my hair out.

As follow up: I'm getting .17-.19 Amps until I yank fuse #2 Microcontroller Power (SJB) at which point it drops to .01-.03 Amps.???????????????????????????????????????????????
I found the issue as I was about to replace the EGR valve starting to remove the air filter/intake. I had a sizeable (term of art) chipmunk nest under the air filter. It was so bad, it even had a small piece of bark lodged in the MAF sensor. Once cleaned out all codes disappeared except the short to ground. I tracked that down as it kept blowing the fuse for the rear defrost/heated mirrors (no heated mirrors on my model 2006 Exploder XLT V6). Sure enough the round metal clip connecting the rear defrost cable to the glass was just hanging in the air.
It's all good now but let this be a lesson to anyone parked outside in a rural setting. Start troubleshooting at the most obvious point - at the AIR FILTER.
 






SJB controller fuse will be remain powered until vehicle entered sleep mode ( approx 30 minutes after doors closed,brake depressed,lights off etc).

As for the DTCs

There is no universal remedy,try following factory workshop manual instruction per every DTC listed.


Looks like general engine main harness shortcut mess.but who knows.every code needs to be checked separately
Thank you so much for replying to my post.
I found the issue as I was about to replace the EGR valve starting to remove the air filter/intake. I had a sizeable (term of art) chipmunk nest under the air filter. It was so bad, it even had a small piece of bark lodged in the MAF sensor. Once cleaned out all codes disappeared except the short to ground. I tracked that down as it kept blowing the fuse for the rear defrost/heated mirrors (no heated mirrors on my model 2006 Exploder XLT V6). Sure enough the round metal clip connecting the rear defrost cable to the glass was just hanging in the air.
It's all good now but let this be a lesson to anyone parked outside in a rural setting. Start troubleshooting at the most obvious point - at the AIR FILTER.
 






A storm of trouble codes all at once is often a sign of low system voltage. Check battery voltage, running and not. Check for clean, tight battery clamps and a good chassis ground. Also check the bulk connectors on/near the firewall, for looseness or corrosion.

Your current measurements look within acceptable range, as Bazz270 mentioned this is consistent with the woke, and timer countdown to sleep states of the vehicle or pulling the fuse it goes into that state immediately.
Thank you so much for replying to my post.
I found the issue as I was about to replace the EGR valve starting to remove the air filter/intake. I had a sizeable (term of art) chipmunk nest under the air filter. It was so bad, it even had a small piece of bark lodged in the MAF sensor. Once cleaned out all codes disappeared except the short to ground. I tracked that down as it kept blowing the fuse for the rear defrost/heated mirrors (no heated mirrors on my model 2006 Exploder XLT V6). Sure enough the round metal clip connecting the rear defrost cable to the glass was just hanging in the air.
It's all good now but let this be a lesson to anyone parked outside in a rural setting. Start troubleshooting at the most obvious point - at the AIR FILTER.
 






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