is replacing brakes/rotors harder to do on a 4x4

[RockoT]

Today pepBoys said it would be $45 more fore each tire because it's 4x4 and they have to remove the hub for each wheel Is this complete BS or legit.

Thank you

 

[IZwack]

I've never touched a Third Generation Explorer (models 2003 and up) but typically, the hub does not come off to replace the brake caliper/pads and rotors.

The "hub" does come off on some axles (such as the front axle found on the First Generation Explorer 1991-1994) but the axles on your vehicles does not have such axle design.

On your vehicle, the hub sits behind the rotor and the caliper on top of the rotor so disassembly typically goes Caliper -> Rotor -> Hub. Once the caliper has been removed , the rotor typically just slides off - or with some persuasion from a good rubber mallet.

I would say they are BS-ing you.

 

[drspinko]

I just checked my Haynes repair manual and it says that all four discs should come right off the hub after the caliper is removed. It made no distinction between 2X4s and 4x4s so it should be the same simple procedure.

 

[MikeSki66]

I'm not sure about your year either, but my '96 X is a sealed hub and the rotor is on top, so like IZWack says, pull the tire and pursuade the rotor off from the back with a rubber mallet. If you're not turning them for reuse, you can pound them with any thing you want, just so long as you only hit the rotor. Bang it from a few different angles. It should come right off. Put your new one on. Slide in the new pads. And I'd also wipe off & regrease the caliper slide rails with new "caliper grease" sold in any auto parts store. Make sure the rubber boot is not cracked at all. The slide rail has to stay sealed so the caliper don't stick and you get even wear on both inside & outside pads. You only need one of those cheap $.99 caliper grease packets they probably have right at the counter. Drop the calipers on and you should be all set! ALSO!!... I'd get the middle quality discs, don't get the cheapies. I did my first change and now that's my weekend project again! I'm changing them again because they warped after 2 years. They had a 1 year warranty. The better ones have a 2 year warranty. I got the Duralast from Autozone this time. I think they were about $36 each. The pads I got were the regular Duralast ($21). They also sell the Duralast Gold for $37 or ceramic pads(no break dust!) for I think around $39. I have high mileage on my X so I didn't get picky about the pads. The Valuecraft discs they sell suck! A few simple tools will get you thru. You might want a can of Brake Quiet too. Spray the back of the pads before putting them on the caliper. Good luck... you just saved your self at least $150-200 bucks!!!

 

[A1C_Snowman]

That was total bullshit. Your truck is no different than any Car that is out on the road. You undo the Caliper, and caliper bracket, remove the retaining clips lug studs, and the rotor basically falls off. I just did my brake 2 weeks ago.

 

[IZwack]

Your truck is no different than any Car that is out on the road. You undo the Caliper, and caliper bracket, remove the retaining clips lug studs, and the rotor basically falls off. I just did my brake 2 weeks ago.

There are axles out there that do require the "hub" to be removed in order to replace the rotor because the rotor is behind the "hub" ... including the Dana 44 front axle and GM's "10-bolt" clone, also the GM 14-bolt rear axle and most other "Full Floater" designs. So there was some truth to what the pepBoy's mechanic said - but of course this does not apply in this situation (an Explorer)