Is this the right hose for SeaFoam treatment?

[SlipknoT74769]

So I checked my EEC and am getting codes 332 and 337, I've looked around and apparently it's my DPFE and EGR?

I damaged a vacuum line while under the hood and thought I fixed it by pulling the broken part off and putting what was left back on the line, I think I may have created a pinch point on the line though. I've read to replace the hoses, which I will do today, but was wondering if the grommet that I pulled the vacuum hose off the master cylinder could have anything to do with these codes? I've also read it could be the solenoid.

Any advice?

 

[natenkiki2004]

Now that you know what the codes are, and you're concerned that what you did caused them, I'd recommend to disconnect the battery and let it sit a while. Reconnect it, fire it up, let it idle a while and take it for a drive. See what happens. If the codes come back then something needs fixing. Codes can come up as a 1 time offense, sometimes twice. Then never return.


[rant]
I replaced the O2 sensor on mine, same sensor, Motorcraft OEM. When I started it afterwards, the check engine light came on, it was the O2 sensor. Unplugged the battery to let it reset. It came back again. Unplugged the battery again, let it set. Now I've been driving for months without any drivability issues and no check engine light. Maybe I got some anti-seize on the tip and it had to melt/burn off, I don't know. I was very generous with it on the threads. Anyway, my point is, these computers are very dumb. Far dumber than the computer in a flip-style dumb cell phone. They can do basic math but that's about it.

The most important thing I can say is, don't take the "check engine" light as the end of the world. If the engine is still running decently when the light comes on then it's likely a basic fault from a sensor that causes the computer to use default values and turn the light on. Your fuel economy or power may take a dive but it doesn't mean the engine's going to explode.
[/rant]

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Now that you know what the codes are, and you're concerned that what you did caused them, I'd recommend to disconnect the battery and let it sit a while. Reconnect it, fire it up, let it idle a while and take it for a drive. See what happens. If the codes come back then something needs fixing. Codes can come up as a 1 time offense, sometimes twice. Then never return.


[rant]
I replaced the O2 sensor on mine, same sensor, Motorcraft OEM. When I started it afterwards, the check engine light came on, it was the O2 sensor. Unplugged the battery to let it reset. It came back again. Unplugged the battery again, let it set. Now I've been driving for months without any drivability issues and no check engine light. Maybe I got some anti-seize on the tip and it had to melt/burn off, I don't know. I was very generous with it on the threads. Anyway, my point is, these computers are very dumb. Far dumber than the computer in a flip-style dumb cell phone. They can do basic math but that's about it.

The most important thing I can say is, don't take the "check engine" light as the end of the world. If the engine is still running decently when the light comes on then it's likely a basic fault from a sensor that causes the computer to use default values and turn the light on. Your fuel economy or power may take a dive but it doesn't mean the engine's going to explode.
[/rant]

I've been reading that some people disconnect the EGR completely with no consequences. I'm really OCD about things, and will most likely just replace the EGR and DPFE Sensor (about $80 total) as well as replace vacuum hosing and other minor things (Possibly new plugs and coil pack). The truck runs beautifully, and if anything, better than before I ran the SeaFoam through. I still need to replace the trans filter and swap some of that fluid, but other than that, there have been no problems .. ...

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Ok, tomorrow is the day. I'm going to rent a torque wrench from AutoZone and finally install my new trans filter. I already have 3 quarts of fluid, but realize I will need more than that. My question is, of what I've read, some posts say to pull the lines going to the front and drain about 2-3 quarts that way. Others are saying to drop the pan and let the fluid drain that way. I know not to drain too much or risk loosing the prime on the pump. I also know that a flush is risky and rough on high mileage transmissions. So what exactly should I do? Drop the pan at an angle and let it drain until it stops, put the new filter in and replace however much fluid was removed?

Again, thank you all for your help, I've just read a few different ways to do this and wondered what you guys thought was best?

 

[SlipknoT74769]

I dropped the pan, got quite a bit of fluid out, cleaned off the old gasket (I had to scrape it) and now I'm putting in the new filter, once that done I put the new gasket on the pan and raise it and bolt it right? Then just add however much fluid came out back into my trasmission dispstick area right? With the truck running? I'm kinda stuck where to go from here .. ...

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Ok got it all done, added 2 quarts cold, one more quart while running, ran it for a bit, was still a bit low, added one more quart while running and I'm at the mark. No more rough shifts, not even getting close to red line before it shifts. All in all I would say I'm very proud of myself and thank you all again for everything.

Found a broken vacuum line that was causing the 332 and 337 error codes, put it back on and no more error codes 8)

My Baby is running so well 8)

Next is new plugs, wires, and coil pack; New front tire; and new front struts .. ... She'll be as good as new .. ...

 

[natenkiki2004]

Congrats man, that's exactly how I would have suggested. I'm not a fan of running the engine/trans with a line disconnected to pump out the ATF. There's no risk of "losing pump prime" but rather just burning the pump out since there's nothing to lubricate it.

You didn't "flush" anything in your process. The only way to flush is to disconnect the lines and run the engine while the trans pumps out old fluid and you constantly pour new fluid in until the fluid coming out is the same color & transparency of the fluid going in.

Doing what you did replaced about half the fluid. I'd let it run like that for a couple hundred if not thousand miles and then drop the pan again or do the flush.

I'd also recommend to use silicone hose on the vacuum lines. Get rid of all the rubber & plastic that you can, it's all bad news. Silicone will last much longer and won't get stiff or collapse on you.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Congrats man, that's exactly how I would have suggested. I'm not a fan of running the engine/trans with a line disconnected to pump out the ATF. There's no risk of "losing pump prime" but rather just burning the pump out since there's nothing to lubricate it.

You didn't "flush" anything in your process. The only way to flush is to disconnect the lines and run the engine while the trans pumps out old fluid and you constantly pour new fluid in until the fluid coming out is the same color & transparency of the fluid going in.

Doing what you did replaced about half the fluid. I'd let it run like that for a couple hundred if not thousand miles and then drop the pan again or do the flush.

I'd also recommend to use silicone hose on the vacuum lines. Get rid of all the rubber & plastic that you can, it's all bad news. Silicone will last much longer and won't get stiff or collapse on you.

I just wanted to get some of that old crap out after running the TranTune .. ... The fluid was black and thick as butter, pretty nasty crap.

The only thing I'm a little upset about is the person at AutoZone told me to run Castrol High Mileage ATF in it, but I've been reading I need Mercon V, will it be ok?

 

[SammyM00782]

Normally I would go with the Mercon V since it's designed specifically for Fords and if memory serves me right they add a few friction modifiers in there that increase overall grip of bands and clutches. From the advice of my grandfather I added Mercon IV (that's all there was in 99) in my Firebird many years ago to cure a slightly slipping trans and it actually worked. Next time you drop the pan, if you plan on keeping her for a while, I'd install a drain plug kit. Tilting the pan over is just a pain in the dick sometimes and I've noticed if you're not careful you end up distorting the mounting flange. Even just a little off kilter of anything bothers me, it's an automotive OCD thing....not everybody has it I'll be working on my valve body situation next week I hope but in the meantime I'm broke because I have to get the windshield replaced due to the old adhesive almost completely letting go. I didn't even notice how bad it was until I went to go put an oil change sticker on it, sigh... Dropping the gas tank tomorrow, that oughta be tons o' fun. Those lousy auto hubs don't work either so I need to get those converted before it really starts to snow around here. Glad to see everything worked out pretty good for you bud.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Normally I would go with the Mercon V since it's designed specifically for Fords and if memory serves me right they add a few friction modifiers in there that increase overall grip of bands and clutches. From the advice of my grandfather I added Mercon IV (that's all there was in 99) in my Firebird many years ago to cure a slightly slipping trans and it actually worked. Next time you drop the pan, if you plan on keeping her for a while, I'd install a drain plug kit. Tilting the pan over is just a pain in the dick sometimes and I've noticed if you're not careful you end up distorting the mounting flange. Even just a little off kilter of anything bothers me, it's an automotive OCD thing....not everybody has it I'll be working on my valve body situation next week I hope but in the meantime I'm broke because I have to get the windshield replaced due to the old adhesive almost completely letting go. I didn't even notice how bad it was until I went to go put an oil change sticker on it, sigh... Dropping the gas tank tomorrow, that oughta be tons o' fun. Those lousy auto hubs don't work either so I need to get those converted before it really starts to snow around here. Glad to see everything worked out pretty good for you bud.

I haven't noticed any negative effects of it, if I start feeling it slip I'll probably go ahead and drop the pan again and get some Mercon V in there. I'll look around for the drain plug post or a video or something, seems like that would be a HELL of a lot easier than what I did today.

I had to get a new windshield for mine as well, here in Denver it was $120 w/warranty .. ... I was glad to find that spot, some places wanted $200+ for it. I've done a lot of work on this truck and she's starting to grow on me, so I'll probably keep her awhile 8) Best of luck on your future work. Link me to some, as I'm sure us 94s need to stick together in our knowledge base, hahaha

 

[natenkiki2004]

If you're going to go with a new fluid (some here have had issues with Mercon V in A4LD's) then you best do a flush by disconnecting the cooler lines and putting new fluid in while the old comes out. That way you don't have 2 different fluids mixing.

If you do decide to do that, I'd recommend getting a filter on there first, whether it's a magnefine or a spin-on, run it a while. Get some more TransTune in there or do another pan drop with fresh ATF. You want to clean AND TRAP stuff out of the trans. The internal filter will do almost nothing to filter/clean your fluid, it's just a screen to keep large debris from clogging valve body ports.

 

[SlipknoT74769]

If you're going to go with a new fluid (some here have had issues with Mercon V in A4LD's) then you best do a flush by disconnecting the cooler lines and putting new fluid in while the old comes out. That way you don't have 2 different fluids mixing.

If you do decide to do that, I'd recommend getting a filter on there first, whether it's a magnefine or a spin-on, run it a while. Get some more TransTune in there or do another pan drop with fresh ATF. You want to clean AND TRAP stuff out of the trans. The internal filter will do almost nothing to filter/clean your fluid, it's just a screen to keep large debris from clogging valve body ports.

15 quarts of transmission fluid for a flush seems quite expensive. I do plan on getting that in-line in there eventually, and yes, I was worried about mixing fluids. I pay out the ass for child support, so this will have to do for now 8( 4 kids with X mas around the corner is going to kill me 8/ I'll update this thread if I have any more questions or new info. Thank you all again for everything! Happy Holidays!

 

[4.0blue98]

I've used this and it was fine with the non MerconV. Ran it for 30k no problems.

http://www.lubegard.com/C-229/LUBEGARD+M-V+ATF+Supplement

 

[SlipknoT74769]

I just read that Mercon V was introduced in 1997, so why would my transmission manufactured in 1994 (more likely 1993) require a product that wasn't introduced for 3-4 years after it was made? I think I'll be fine with this high mileage Castrol ATF I put in there .. ... If I notice any slipping I'll flush the whole system and put Mercon V in.

 

[4.0blue98]

I just read that Mercon V was introduced in 1997, so why would my transmission manufactured in 1994 (more likely 1993) require a product that wasn't introduced for 3-4 years after it was made? I think I'll be fine with this high mileage Castrol ATF I put in there .. ... If I notice any slipping I'll flush the whole system and put Mercon V in.

That's a good point! You should be fine. Didn't realize Mercon V was so recent. I went from an 83 with a 4spd manual to my 98 auto so no reference from that era. Mine calls for Mercon V on the dipstick.

You should need a Mercon compatible fluid (no "V") which is probably covered by the high mileage version you used. Check the compatibility on the container. Mercon V was a modification with different additives. Just as you should use it where indicated, you probably shouldn't use it where it is not recommended.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Castrol is good stuff. Ford does spec that our Explorers A4LD is Mercon V compatible but some have had issues with it and it's right on the edge of compatibility. You can't find the old Mercon anymore so you're left with Dex/Merc generic from suppliers. I wouldn't hesitate or think twice about Castrol, Valvoline or Mobil 1.

I've heard great things about that Lubegard stuff. Been wanting to try it out myself once I drop the pan again to fix a leak.

 

[4.0blue98]

For the OP, I know this whole thing started with Seafoam and I've used it before with some success but with my 98 OHV and the recurring carbon knock these things are known for I found this works better:

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/how-...-ohv-4-0-ford-technical-service-bulletin.html

This protocol is for the extreme case like I have encountered as it says to repeat three times but should do for occasional use too. The PM3 is readily available at the dealer. I think the last time I bought some it was half maybe a third the price of Seafoam. Of course this is for the intake only and doesn't go in the oil or gas but it does work as advertised. I also used it on my KJ as a surface carbon cleaner when I was cleaning the cylinders and heads during an HG replacement. The carbon just dissolves on contact.

Also, tough to beat Motorcraft replacement and maintenance parts. I use Motorcraft whenever possible usually from RockAuto or the dealer. The tranny filter kit I used from them came with a great gasket. I've put about 100k on mine since I bought it and have done 3 pan drop services using this kit each time. The gasket in this kit has never leaked. I'm not a total Ford guy by any means. I have a Jeep, Dodge, Toyota, Subaru and my Ranger. The only one I'm really sold on as far as using OEM parts is the Ranger.

I'm not a mechanic so this is all just my opinion but it is based on quite a few years of puttering. Side note, I always get a kick out of people replacing something that lasted well over 100k with something aftermarket that they think will be "better"

 

[SlipknoT74769]

Does anybody know where to add power steering fluid? Everytime I turn the wheel there's a loud whine and I can't find the damn fluid reservoir .. ...

 

[Maniak]

The Power steering reservoir is on the power steering pump which is on the driver side (left) side of the motor, right next to the Air Conditioning compressor.

BUT, many ford power steering pumps run noisy. There is a dip stick in the power steering reservoir (part of the cap). Don't over fill it, or you will get fluid spitting out all over the place. Also, if you turn the wheel with the vehicle off you can force the fluid out the top of the reservoir, so don't do that either.

~Mark

edit: Fixed my brain fart...

 

[SlipknoT74769]

The Power steering reservoir is on the power steering pump which is on the passenger side of the motor, right next to the Air Conditioning compressor.

BUT, many ford power steering pumps run noisy. There is a dip stick in the power steering reservoir (part of the cap). Don't over fill it, or you will get fluid spitting out all over the place. Also, if you turn the wheel with the vehicle off you can force the fluid out the top of the reservoir, so don't do that either.

~Mark

Thank you, I ended up finding it, filling it definitely helped with the whining, also made steering much smoother .. ...