Just made a deal for a 97 Eddie Bauer edition! What next? | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Just made a deal for a 97 Eddie Bauer edition! What next?

e36fiend

New Member
Joined
September 20, 2014
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
City, State
Seattle
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 328i
I've been looking at 2nd gen Explorers for a few weeks now and finally found the one I'm going to buy. Negotiated with the guy, agreed on a price, just need to hit the bank and close the deal tomorrow morning. That being said, I'll be able to do one last sweep before I drive home to look for anything I missed. It's a bit higher mileage than I would have liked but I'm a pretty competent DIY guy so I'm not worried about fixing stuff. Having an auto tranny freaks me out though!

Here's what I bought: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4623104555.html He originally wanted $2900, dropped to $2000 and I talked him down to $1500. 220k miles but it has all the options and everything works. 5L V8 :D He's owned it since 2000 and had a huge stack of receipts. He's the kind of guy who doesn't turn a wrench but gets regular service and if his mechanic says he needs something, he just gets it. If something stops working right or makes a funny sound, he replaced it without question. Glancing through the receipts I saw a starter, alternator, sway bar links, mirrors, I got the distinct impression he was very proactive when it came to maintenance but also reacted immediately when he noticed something was awry.

I come from the BMW world, I have a 96 328i I rebuilt from the ground up, suspension, motor/internals, interior, did literally everything myself except some machine work. I also have a 97 540. I've owned countless BMWs of that era, couple 944s, Toyota Avalon, Acura Legend, 66 mustang, and my first vehicle was my dads 74 F250. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, in fact I love it! I'm definitely a mechanic by hobby (I work for Nintendo for a living).

My plans for this are to use it for hauling stuff around, trips to Home Depot, transporting car parts, going camping, Burning Man, trips to the beach with friends etc.

So, I'll have one shot to give the car another inspection tomorrow before I drive off with it. When I saw it tonight I verified the operation of everything electrical inside the car, all the seats move as they should, lift gate opens and closes smooth. Transmission shifts fine, no weird noises or feelings while accelerating, braking, cornering etc. No leaks, undercarraige is bone dry. Did not check fluids but he's even had the transmission fluid changed relatively recently.

What else should I look for while I'm in the home stretch? I can't wait to drive this guy home!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If its AWD or 4x4 check the front driveshaft for any slop they are notorious for them being bad. I would also jack it up give the wheels a shake at 3 and 9 and 12 and 6 and check the suspension parts. Lower ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Check sway bar links bushings, shocks, leaf springs, fluids in the differential and transfer case, and any other normal wear and tear items. See when last time fuel filter was changed as well. if its 6 cylinder and sohc have the time chain guides been replaced as well, if its the 5.0 v8 don't worry. Explorers are also know for rear main seal leaks as well. Pop the hood check the drive belt and all the accessory pulleys as well. Just give it a good once over.
 






5.0's are all AWD. 220k isn't that bad for a V8. mine are 170k, 190k, 200k with no problems whatsoever. it looks like a nice clean truck. the Wrangler tires are not a particularly good choice from a ride and handling standpoint, but as long as they equal tread left (important with AWD) they'll do. the front sway bar end links are usually broken or missing on these trucks. not a big deal, under $40 and easily replaced. see if the radiator and water pump have ever been replaced. the rad isn't that expensive or hard to replace, but the water pumps can be a bugger because the bolts tend to break when removing them due to rust and their length. as mentioned check to make sure the front drive shaft is there. if not, it may very well mean transfer case/center diff problems, or at least a bad shaft. other than that, the V8's are very robust and don't suffer from any particular problems. just check the usual stuff, brakes, shocks, ball joints... all fairly minor things to replace. you'll find this forum a great source of information and help. other minor but common problems include, radio display blanks out, windows and door lock problems, overhead console display and/or lights out, heater blend door broken, rear wiper problems. you can replace the center arm rest cover for about $20 bucks, $30 with new foam.

$2000 is a bit high for a '97 in my area of the country, but prices vary by location and condition. $1500 is a great price. a good clean example with service records is a big plus. if it has the key-pad on the driver's door, don't forget to ask the seller for the code. of he doesn't have it, it can be retrieved for free, as it's on a sticker in the front of the jack compartment.

as you can tell by my signature, my family loves these vehicles. only wish they got better fuel economy. good luck and welcome to the club!

oh, if your fluorescent 3rd brake light doesn't work it can be converted to LED for under $20 and a few hours of your time.
 


















ah ok, i was just confused by that without thinking of it as 4x4 vs awd and read it as ALL awd. its to early to be up trying to read forums
 






Thanks for the replies! In the BMW world there's checklists of things you really need to be sure of and usually a few systems that need attention more than anything else (like cooling on the older models) but I'm getting the impression that with the Explorers there aren't exactly the same kinds of trouble spots. My gut reaction is that this particular truck is a very clean and well maintained example and your comments are helping :)

It's AWD BTW. Are those any more or less susceptible to issues than the 4x4 or 2x4 models?

Gonna go check it out one more time and drive it home! I'll take some pics.
 






Thanks for the replies! In the BMW world there's checklists of things you really need to be sure of and usually a few systems that need attention more than anything else (like cooling on the older models) but I'm getting the impression that with the Explorers there aren't exactly the same kinds of trouble spots. My gut reaction is that this particular truck is a very clean and well maintained example and your comments are helping :)

It's AWD BTW. Are those any more or less susceptible to issues than the 4x4 or 2x4 models?

Gonna go check it out one more time and drive it home! I'll take some pics.

the AWD model differs from the 4WD in that the center differential splits power 35% to the front wheels and 65% to the rear wheels (unless slippage is detected) and the AWD is always engaged. there is no 4 wheel HI/LO switch. the power split is controlled via a viscous coupling. this coupling can be damaged if front/rear tire diameter isn't kept nearly identical (something like 1/32 of an inch according to the owner's manual). while the AWD is very good on-road, the 4WD is better for more serious off-road use.

i purchased my AWD w/out knowing it was AWD. it was advertised as a 2WD, there are no external markings and i didn't notice the front axle. my AWD hasn't really had any problems, it just adds extra weight and complexity. if the center differential goes bad, many will remove the front prop shaft and use it as a RWD/2WD. the problem with doing this is that PARK works with the center diff. if you remove the front shaft, the truck will "creep" if parked on an incline.

if i needed more than RWD, i'd prefer the AWD over 4WD as i almost never go off road.
 






the AWD model differs from the 4WD in that the center differential splits power 35% to the front wheels and 65% to the rear wheels (unless slippage is detected) and the AWD is always engaged. there is no 4 wheel HI/LO switch. the power split is controlled via a viscous coupling. this coupling can be damaged if front/rear tire diameter isn't kept nearly identical (something like 1/32 of an inch according to the owner's manual). while the AWD is very good on-road, the 4WD is better for more serious off-road use.

i purchased my AWD w/out knowing it was AWD. it was advertised as a 2WD, there are no external markings and i didn't notice the front axle. my AWD hasn't really had any problems, it just adds extra weight and complexity. if the center differential goes bad, many will remove the front prop shaft and use it as a RWD/2WD. the problem with doing this is that PARK works with the center diff. if you remove the front shaft, the truck will "creep" if parked on an incline.

if i needed more than RWD, i'd prefer the AWD over 4WD as i almost never go off road.

That is exactly the information I was looking for, thank you. I don't plan on going off road either. Maybe some occasional towing and this one has an actual hitch receiver instead of the ball screwed into the bumper. Not sure which is better but I kind of prefer it this way :)

I can't believe that after looking at all the ones on my list the very last one is so much better than the others in terms of features, condition and even price. So stoked.
 






That is exactly the information I was looking for, thank you. I don't plan on going off road either. Maybe some occasional towing and this one has an actual hitch receiver instead of the ball screwed into the bumper. Not sure which is better but I kind of prefer it this way :)

I can't believe that after looking at all the ones on my list the very last one is so much better than the others in terms of features, condition and even price. So stoked.

the under bumper receiver is much stronger than the bumper ball mount. it might mean it also has the factory towing package, which is good and bad. extra beefy rear springs, but slightly stiffer ride. going from my '01 Eddie (with the towing package) to my 2000 Mountaineer i can feel the difference in ride.

as far as it being the last one you looked at... that's always the way, then again when you find what you want you stop looking.

check out www.zealousinteriors.com for that center armrest cover. below is a picture of my repair.

109_0119.jpg
 






the under bumper receiver is much stronger than the bumper ball mount. it might mean it also has the factory towing package, which is good and bad. extra beefy rear springs, but slightly stiffer ride. going from my '01 Eddie (with the towing package) to my 2000 Mountaineer i can feel the difference in ride.

as far as it being the last one you looked at... that's always the way, then again when you find what you want you stop looking.

Lol I knew someone was going to call me out on that, notice I carefully said it was the last one on my list :P Granted I would have kept looking if it didn't work out but I also might have considered one of the previous trucks.

Owner says it has the tow package but I've driven lowered cars for years, I can handle more road sensation.
 






Lol I knew someone was going to call me out on that, notice I carefully said it was the last one on my list :P Granted I would have kept looking if it didn't work out but I also might have considered one of the previous trucks.

Owner says it has the tow package but I've driven lowered cars for years, I can handle more road sensation.

did you see my later edit re the armrest cover?
 






Featured Content

Back
Top